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KINGSHOOTER
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:P I`ve an old 686essential and when I 1st started I used imp&1/4 then as I started to get better I tightened up to 1/4&3/4 using gamebore clear pigeon 30g 6`s fibre wad.Remember plas wads are tighter grouping than fibre,and if you have any doubts about your cart try patterning them[i use old paper sacks opened out].I got a shock when I tried some 10 bore loads,the shot was balling together and left interesting holes & crescents in the sacks & I won`t be using those ones! :devil:
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You are in a minefield Kingshooter !!!!

 

Type of gun, maker and bore size makes no difference.

Choke size is the same irrespective.

 

Q.

1. How good is your fieldcraft ??

2. Is it pure pest control ??

3. Do you eat what you shoot ??

4. How good a shot are you ??

(could go on for ages)

 

A.

1. If your drawing the birds into the decoys, open chokes skeet & 1/4 are more

than adequate with a good pellet count at 30 yards.

2. If it's pure pest control use the same chokes your confident with on clays.

3. Less pellets in the bird (open chokes) makes for easier eating, more pellets in

the bird (tight chokes) is a trip to the dentist. .... I've been there.

4. The more open the choke the bigger the shot pattern, gives you more of a

margin to correct your error.

 

Hope that's some help to you ?? also depends on numerous factors.

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My humble advise to anyone who starts shooting is to start with a certain pair of chokes and never change them. The reason is that you get used to the gun with these chokes and find out what you can and what you can not hit with the chosen combination.

Which chokes to use depends on the game you expect to shoot most of the time.

In Holland I mostly shoot ducks and hares. Therefor I use 3/4 -Full. This means that when I am shooting pigeons over decoys I shoot them a long way before they 'drop' into my decoys.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but I also think that the change that you kill the bird instantly is bigger with the most narrow combination of chokes. Either you hit the bird right and kill it or you miss it and it won't get hurt.

 

Another advantage in my opinion is that you learn to shoot better.

 

I guess that the statements mentioned above will encourage some people to react.. :devil:

 

The Dutchman

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Dutchman,

 

allways great to hear from shooters (sportsmen) in different countries.

All contributions more than welcome ....

 

Not a bad reaction to your advice but have you ALLWAYS used 3/4 & F ??

 

This choice of chokes would not be MY advice to a "new" shooter.

What happens after constantly missing pigeons at 20 - 30 yards with too tight a pattern ?? blame the gun ?? blame the cart(s) ?? blame yourself ??

 

Result; A loss of confidence in just about everything.

 

There's no chance of learning to shoot better if there's no confidence, the mind set doesn't allow it ....

 

Would you consider a "new" starter to be confident at shooting pigeons at the same distance that you do ??

 

henry d. has in my opinion got the answer spot on .... get the confidence, get the experience THEN experiment with the chokes.

 

I am 100% confident you don't eat your pigeon ?? are you using steel shot out of a full choke barrel ??

 

No problem recomending 3/4 & F for duck & hares .... they only travel in straight lines and you want clean kills.

 

Would like to hear about which carts you use ??

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RR and Dutchman,

good points on both sides, i do have to go with the use of more open for the newbie though, you will tighten up with experience,most of the shooters i know feel the need to close up the chokes after a while ,keeps me honest i know ,you can never get to much experience,keep shooting and have fun learning .

 

good shooting all

 

martin

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Hi all,

 

I have been shooting sporting clays for about 4 months now and have just decided to change from cylinder & 1/4 to 1/4 & 1/2 choke to see if it improved my chances at long clays.

 

It did, by a small percentage and there was probably a psychological benefit in my believing that it would help.

 

Having said all that, i was totally mystified to find that after a good round of clays, mostly long range, i was being beaten by a shooter who had forgotten to put any chokes in their gun at all !

 

Apart from the possible thread damage, it sort of makes a mockery of the whole choke subject.

 

I will be leaving mine set at 1/4 & 1/2 for a while now, as i do not think it makes that much difference any more.

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:devil::P B-ginner, i have found that in a lot of cases people tend to rely on the old "what the other guy ran " syndrome ,i as have many here im sure have whatched guys rush to the choke case after already setting say "i.c. s " and then finding out the guy ahead who ran the station was running imp mod's,therefore holding everyone up and then rushing the round ,myself i try to keep tight ,i like the way they powder :P :blink: wel the ones i hit :*) ,you will find as you improove you'll go for the tighter chokes,

 

think of all the guys shooting with fixed chokes ,,,,,nothing to worry over there, you get what you get

 

good luck ,good shooting

 

martin

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Dutchman,

 

allways great to hear from shooters (sportsmen) in different countries.

All contributions more than welcome ....

 

Not a bad reaction to your advice but have you ALLWAYS used 3/4 & F ??

 

This choice of chokes would not be MY advice to a "new" shooter.

What happens after constantly missing pigeons at 20 - 30 yards with too tight a pattern ?? blame the gun ?? blame the cart(s) ?? blame yourself ??

 

Result; A loss of confidence in just about everything.

 

There's no chance of learning to shoot better if there's no confidence, the mind set doesn't allow it ....

 

Would you consider a "new" starter to be confident at shooting pigeons at the same distance that you do ??

 

henry d. has in my opinion got the answer spot on .... get the confidence, get the experience THEN experiment with the chokes.

 

I am 100% confident you don't eat your pigeon ?? are you using steel shot out of a full choke barrel ??

 

No problem recomending 3/4 & F for duck & hares .... they only travel in straight lines and you want clean kills.

 

Would like to hear about which carts you use ??

Yup i've got an old laurona o/u 26" tru cyl on both that i use for pigeon shooting

Knocks them out the sky all the time , then as i got better i switched to a s/s hammer true and 1/4 but with 32" barrels , the laurona still gets used if i take a beginer with me , it never fails !!!

Happy hunting WB

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I have a browning 425 and have shot skeet with the browning chokes for a while, I then got 2 1/4 and a 1/2 teauge extended choke. Man!!! did that make a difference . more so with the blue diamond fibres . I have never have such a good pattern on the plate no gaps in the group. Its good to see the clays dissapper into a cloud of smoke , but then again just sail on whole , makes you concentrate.

I went shotting piegeons for the first time with a friend and had the good fortune to get some great hints and tips , how ever the game keeper ****** himself laughing when I shot a piegion with a half teague at 20 yards, He said **** me you must be a skeet shotter any closer and you might as well be shoting a pillow case. go on lad you better pick up all of those feathers or you wont get another bird all day !!

 

CHris

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Choke size is a very interesting topic and probably will never be satisfactorily resolved to suit all people.There is no doubt that we all eventually settle after much experimentation, so for what it is worth here is my opinion.To effectively kill upto 35 yards 1/4 choke is sufficient, BASC research has proved the most effective choking THEORETICALLY is 1/2 choke (it's performance envelope is greater statistically) I shoot 1/2 & 1/2 and judge the close range so as not to shred the bird. But if you are on it you will kill it with true cylinder so stop dithering get out and shoot and make your own mind up.Good hunting.

Salopian

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Guest Mr Pieman

B Ginner - no chokes? Someone is playing with you I think. Have you seen the damage discharging a shotgun over choke threading does? Last thing I'd be telling folk was how well I'd shot without chokes! I'd be sloping off to the gunsmith to see if he could fix my barrels :*)

 

I agree with Livia - tightest is best :/:lol::lol::lol: LMAO :)

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B Ginner - no chokes? Someone is playing with you I think. Have you seen the damage discharging a shotgun over choke threading does? Last thing I'd be telling folk was how well I'd shot without chokes! I'd be sloping off to the gunsmith to see if he could fix my barrels :*)

 

I agree with Livia - tightest is best :/:lol::lol::lol: LMAO :)

Hi,

 

Nope, no chokes :*)

 

I haven't seen the person since then so i dont know the outcome, but it was sure killing some clays !

 

I'm sticking with 1/4 and 1/2.

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in referance to sparkylewis ,it has been said in the good book ,i refer to "how to destroy clay pigeons" volumes 1 through 2004 ,ext chokes do allow shot to relax a little under "choking" conditions ,i.e. (and i know im going to regret this ) as the shot and wad are compressed into a "taper" cone/kneck down it squashes the cup therfore pushing the shot around, in the extended tubes teauge/briley browning ext there is a true dia or parrelel path after the taper down ,which is supposed to relax the compresive tendence's and true up the shot/wad cup ,therfore allowing the shot to come out in a more reformed pattern.

 

that being said ,i shoot ext tubes, and find that my patterning is more consitant than stock tubes ,but i also beleive that the "gun fit", "shooter" must all be taken into consideration ,and the age old saying of "IF U AINT ONIT U OWNT ITIT " good old bristolian for ya :/

 

so in closing , we all use what we think is best for the day or job ,only time and experience will change that,, just keep doing what works best for you :)

 

good shooting all

martin

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