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Lets make a Rapid Mrk 1 Air-Flow Valve


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Here we have one blank piece of brass graded A, bought from my supplier alco metals.

 

solidbrassbaryh8.th.jpg

 

If I remember correct the bar is ¾ inch diameter and 5 inch long.

First we needed to measure the correct diameters to which we are about to turn to spec

 

 

 

The outer thread is 3/8 20, tpi x 1.5. I turned this thread on the lathe, it would be pointless to state what gearing I used to obtain this thread as different lathe may vary in difference, its best to obtain the above settings from your users manual.

 

58909570ih1.th.jpg

 

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As you may see from the above pictures i have already tapped the inner thread , as always it looks very nice indeed, i used a 1/4 tap to obtain that thread Anyway After this your looking at the internal boring of the valve and then internal threading of the inner chamber to the valve to connect your bottle, of which is ¼ 20 tpi thread x by 1.5. as per above.

 

Here we have a sneeky peek of the valve in the chuck looking quite nice, and nearly complete.

 

37263020id7.th.jpg

 

Lets get a better picture here, i am not that good with a cambra LOL

 

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Only thing to do now is the two mill two flats on both sides of the valve and shes about finninshed.

 

The inner pin to open bottle valve is a 2.50 mm pin, i used a 2ba to thread and made a short 4 mm internal bar turned to spec.

Dont get confused by threading, its really not that hard to do, if tapping or using a lathe, its really not that hard.

Thread Size Tapping Drill Clearance Drill

0 5.10mm 6.10mm

1 4.50mm 5.50mm

2 4.00mm 4.85mm

3 3.45mm 4.25mm

4 3.00mm 3.75mm

5 2.65mm 3.30mm

 

 

Looking good Hey!!! :o

 

Heres a little look at a bolt handle i made for the rapid too i got a little fed up making the valve so i turned this until i could get back into making the valve. just like me really LOL. :blush:

 

42212757gi8.th.jpg

 

I tried it on my rapid and it fits like a glove :P :P

 

I do have more projects coming soon, heres a sneeky look at my ball turning tool, so i can make any type of cylinder or ball, made from brass or any other type of metal, plastic, exc, exc... :P

 

cimg0680vj4.th.jpg

 

And as always i must thank Myford for making such a wonderful lathe, of which i find totally awesome too others lathe types, and also thank them for the new introduction of the new myford super 7 big bore

 

cimg0679ph3.th.jpg

 

The valve cost around £50 pounds to buy from theoben, and cost me around 20 pence to make. :P

 

 

 

All Mods to any type airguns, custom parts made, including shotgun parts, custom, and even if you cannot get the parts your old gun need can also be turned by me.

Soon i will be posting a video footage of my new ball turning tool to make custom balls to go on your bolts on airgun or shotguns, to make them look really sexy, can be made from brass or any material of your choice.

 

So stay happy everyone, see you all soon.

 

Thankyou all for looking

 

Cheers

 

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:stupid:

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Just to set the story straight here, the above post was not meant to be for advertising purposes.

It was put there to give Pigeon watch members the chance to gain a little knowledge of how it’s done, and just how much it does cost to make this item. :blush:

 

I do make just about anything really, I love to be independent of companies, that most of us rely on these day. :o

 

I also have very high knowledge of the pcp systems & spring loaded systems on various guns, including the HW80, MFR, MRK 1, MRK 2, Day states all of, Internal workings of all falcon rifles and modifications to gain better shot count, Plus various other tried and tested methods to gain better accuracy and consistency, this knowledge also includes f.a.c rated air-rifle, better air flow control using my tried and tested regulator upgrades, on all Theoben rifles. :P

 

 

Take care all & thanks for your welcome to PigeonWatch. :stupid:

 

Cheers

 

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Wish I could do stuff like that.

 

Now I'm retired I thought I'd see if I could enrol on a night class or some thing like it to learn. There aren't any. Plenty do twaddle like Media Studies though, and other such like foolery.

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Yes Guys, It’s the same Replay, from Airgun Forum :lol:

 

Now I can show you the valve in its complete form, with milled flats to fit 19mm spanner to connect to your rapid. :good:

And of course I have now polished the valve to compete the job nicely. :lol:

 

Heres a side shot, showing the milled flat.

done2ws8.th.jpg

 

 

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And below we have an internal view of the valve showing the centre pin in place and the bottle threads 1/4 inch 20 tpi x1.5.

 

cimg0695cf0.th.jpg

 

:rolleyes: All in all i think that finished my air-flow Valve for the rapid mrk 1. :lol:

 

For the next project i think i will make the Mrk 2 Air- Flow valve And picture the step by step procedure.

 

Cheers

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
thanks..

and how much are they ??

 

cheers mark :lol:

 

 

Milo, to have a fast flow made is not the problem, to get your fac licence to own the fast flow is the problem.

 

Cheers

 

Replay

 

P:s ,....it would cost around £30 pound for the fast flow. ???

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And as always i must thank Myford for making such a wonderful lathe, of which i find totally awesome too others lathe types, and also thank them for the new introduction of the new myford super 7 big bore

 

 

Not true, our colchester student can beat it any day of the week ???

 

Nice little project though.

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thanks..

and how much are they ??

 

cheers mark :hmm:

 

 

 

cheers :oops:

 

what power would i be looking at ,with 4mm porting??

:hmm:

 

 

I take it we are talking about the mrk 1 rapid here, if so then,

 

Using the fast flow for a mark one rapid I would say around the 30 lbs would be the recommended power level, with a shot count of around the 50 shot mark, with a small curve around the 110 psi in the bottle. :yes:

 

There are more things that can be done to the rapid mrk 1 that will bring her well into the power levels of the rapid mrk 2, of which is not that hard to gain.

But I am sorry I cannot talk about this on an open forum on how to gain fac levels. :good:

 

 

Cheers

 

Replay :good:

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And as always i must thank Myford for making such a wonderful lathe, of which i find totally awesome too others lathe types, and also thank them for the new introduction of the new myford super 7 big bore

 

 

Not true, our colchester student can beat it any day of the week :hmm:

 

Nice little project though.

 

 

Sorry to say, but the head stock is way to long to fit any barrel through for threading! thats just one of many problems encountered with the student.

Must say its a good lathe to learn on though. :oops:

Not my type of lathe i must say :good: , but as the saying sometimes go, a lathe is a lathe really. :yes:

 

Cheers

 

Replay :good:

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And as always i must thank Myford for making such a wonderful lathe, of which i find totally awesome too others lathe types, and also thank them for the new introduction of the new myford super 7 big bore

 

 

Not true, our colchester student can beat it any day of the week :lol:

 

Nice little project though.

 

 

Sorry to say, but the head stock is way to long to fit any barrel through for threading! thats just one of many problems encountered with the student.

Must say its a good lathe to learn on though. :yes:

Not my type of lathe i must say :lol: , but as the saying sometimes go, a lathe is a lathe really. :lol:

 

Cheers

 

Replay <_<

 

Sorry but i dont like th aM7 either. there like pigeons..........common......and to bl00dy expensive for parts.

 

 

Boxford AUD or the derbyshire watch makers for the finer things in life. :good:

 

 

Just need some room for a mill now as i dont like milling on a lather with angle plate. just finished my magnet on the boxford.

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hello replay

 

here's a (not very good) pic of my faircut lathe, i'm pretty sure it's older than my grandma :lol: , there's a bit of wear in the dovetail bed right in front of the chuck but it's ok for rough work (the tailstock can be cross traversed for parallel turning :good: , i ought to have bed refurbished really!)

there should be a large weight that tensions the flat belt but it's missing so i fitted a bsa meteor spring to the bar which pulls down to a hook where the other end fastens to <_<

 

toolslathecleaned2.jpg

 

i haven't 'played' with it in a good while now (can't get to it for all the rammel piled on top of it :yes::lol: )

 

regards, john :lol:

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