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flappers on bouncers


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steve i cut down an old 4ft sprung steel bouncer by a foot and it seems to work fine, Sept for the flapper keeps swiveling,

i an now in the process of aralditing a square piece of brass on the end to get a fixing.

need a dead bird now to Se the end result.

i think :good: its going to bob and weave and flap :lol:;)

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Hi,

Well blow me!

I started the same thing yesterday. I'm using the arms off my home made rotary. They're 1/4" spring steel and I hopeful that I don't have the same problem as Steve B mentioned. Ok without the pigeon but the extra pound or so might just make a difference. We won't have any pigeon shooting for a while but am hoping to try it on the maize with the rooks. The one problem I do see is keeping the pigeon in place.

 

Cheers

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steve i cut down an old 4ft sprung steel bouncer by a foot and it seems to work fine, Sept for the flapper keeps swiveling,

i an now in the process of aralditing a square piece of brass on the end to get a fixing.

need a dead bird now to Se the end result.

i think :good: its going to bob and weave and flap :lol:;)

 

 

Hi, again,

 

Must have been typing as you posted your last! Thanks for the tip.

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Am using Chri Greens bouncer/floater removed decoy and replaced with Hypaflap decoy the wings have good fluttering movement. Was shooting flighting pigeons last saturday with four bouncers as pattern, two originals and two hybrids alternated borth types with two the same etc, no difference to the way woodies acted ended with 26 picked for 40 shells.

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wymberley if i left it 4 ft long with the flapper on it, it would hit the ground,

simulated with rough weight of pigeon on, kept moving it up and down the bouncer till i got the right curve

 

Hi, Blackthorn,

 

I'm using the Pigeon-Decoy's version. Utilising the hollow ground peg at the bottom and the angled rod which fits into the flapper mechanism at the top of the arm, I've got a firm but springy bounce for a 4ft height using 1 1/4 lbs of spagetti (needs must and the wife is away!). My problem now is that I don't think that I can use your idea of the plate - apart from the flapper arms, the body support passes through the body so you cant add owt to it. Any ideas? As the bounce is not harsh, I may get away with it as things are. Will try to bag a pigeon and try it tomorrow.

 

Cheers, mate.

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i had a old small brass bolt, the one that slides into the receiver to lock it,

i used the receiver part, cut the bits of where you put the screws in and it leaves you with a square

i then put a flat on one side of the end of the bouncer so it holds a bit better when glued

if that's any good

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A bouncer/floater simulates a bird with it`s wings open and gliding into a bunch of it`s friends and as such it doesn`t need to FLAP and a bird committed to the pattern will glide in no bother.

 

A Flapper on the other hand is simulating a bird either just landing or jumping over it`s pals to get better feeding.

 

IMHO the two are mutually exclusive.

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A bouncer/floater simulates a bird with it`s wings open and gliding into a bunch of it`s friends and as such it doesn`t need to FLAP and a bird committed to the pattern will glide in no bother.

 

A Flapper on the other hand is simulating a bird either just landing or jumping over it`s pals to get better feeding.

 

IMHO the two are mutually exclusive.

Inclined to agree there Henry d. It could simulate a bird just leaving too which could be counter-productive.

 

 

GH

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i had a old small brass bolt, the one that slides into the receiver to lock it,

i used the receiver part, cut the bits of where you put the screws in and it leaves you with a square

i then put a flat on one side of the end of the bouncer so it holds a bit better when glued

if that's any good

 

Thanks, mate.

Got me a pigeon and it works a treat without any further messing about.

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