Rem223

If you want a definitive answer I would phone someone who has one in stock and ask them.

You could use something like loctite thread lock, but make sure it is one that is designed to be removable. Or I would put a couple of wraps of teflon tape that plumbers use around the threads to pack them out a bit.

From what I have read the accuracy is not much to write home about. You would be a lot better off with a dedicated rifle.

The problem with using varmint bullets is the fragmentation on impact. You end up with a lot of lead being sprayed into the carcass. If it were me I would use a varmint bullet on varmints like fox and as Mr_logic says something like the Hornady 95gr SST on deer. Or just stick with the 95gr for both.

You would be better off posting in the air rifle forum. Since the ram replaces the spring I assume it uses the existing piston so I don't see why you would need to replace the seals. It has been a long time since I had an Omega apart so I can't visualise what part they are referring too that needs to be shortened. As I say try posting this in the air rifle forum I expect someone has already covered this before.

I use a 3-9x50 VX1 on my .22 rimfire and it works fine. Given that you probably wont take many shots beyond 100yds I can't see the need for more magnification. With fixed parallax inside 30yds on 9x the focus is not so good, but that's why you have a variable power. You could alternatively consider one with adjustable parallax if you are concerned. However the adjustable parallax Leupolds will only focus down to 25yds IIRC unless you get an EFR model.

The A-max are target bullets so they probably won't come apart as easily as V-max. According to Hornady they are excellent for thin-skinned game.

The fire forming process is a bit fiddly but as Rick says it can be done easily enough. Hornet brass is cheap and the 17AH is very efficient round. However if it were me I would get the Fireball simply because you can at a pinch buy ammo off the shelf and reloading is much more straightforward.

The 11 Degree crown is pretty much the standard after much testing it was found to be the most accurate. However there are 45 degree crowns. With something like a 22 mag the pressure at the muzzle wont be anything like a centrefire but you still want a nice clean edge. You need to get something like a magnifying glass and inspect it closely to make sure there are no burrs. This video clip shows how the crown is cut and gives an idea of what it should look like. This is another tool which can be used to cut the 11 degree crown. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=628/Pro...CROWNING_CUTTER or the 45 degree version http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1010/Pr..._CHAMFER_CUTTER

x2 the Chrony is a great bit of kit for the money. The Combro works but it is pretty fiddly and easily damaged.

How many rounds has it fired in total? What does the throat feel like when you push a patch through?

The Remington model 7 has a 20" barrel. I would not want to go any shorter than that. Otherwise you would be better off with a different calibre. The difference in velocity of a 16.5" barrel vs a 24" is in the region of 225-375fps. Not earth shattering but more than I would want to sacrifice. Without a moderator the muzzle blast would be pretty obnoxious too.

I take it you are talking about importing a US made rifle from the US? Rick has already clarified this, but just so there's no misunderstanding. Lets assume you make a straw man rifle purchase in the US. It would most likely be the Department of Homeland Security flunkies that do the inspection. They probably don't know the law. However if US Customs inspect it and you are not a US citizen or a green card holder you will be in for a world of pain. If you are not a US citizen or legally resident there you cannot legally take possession of a firearm. End of story. You and the person who sells you the gun are breaking Federal law. If caught you could end up with a minimum of being deported from the US with a ten year ban. You could potentially get prison time in a Federal prison. Is it worth that for saving a few hundred quid?

x2 for Butch's bore shine. It stinks but it gets copper out. Hoppes benchrest is ok, but the 009 is not much good at removing copper. Its primarily designed to remove powder fouling. However the best product I have used so far is Wipe-out. A foaming bore cleaner. I don't know if anyone stocks it in the UK. One tiny spray is all you need. Leave it for a while and push a patch through followed by a dry patch and you're done. http://www.sharpshootr.com/wipeout.htm

It isn't easy to tell but it looks like your moderator is one that hangs off the end of the barrel rather than the type that comes back over some of the barrel. I had one like that on my first moderated centrefire and it made it really unwieldy. I expect you would get a better price if you traded the rifle against another, one rather than just selling it. Though if it shoots well I would be tempted to get a better moderator. I certainly wouldn't cut a 22-250 down below 22" as you would sacrifice too much velocity. It would be like having a Ferrari that wouldn't shift out of second!

I started out with an RCBS junior press and RCBS dies. It is probably cheaper to buy the RCBS reloading kit though if you want to have it all in one box. Later on bought some Redding S-Bushing dies. The last set of dies I bought were for a pistol and I got a set of Lee carbide dies. For the money they are superb. I don't know about their rifle dies, but the carbide pistol dies are excellent value for money. A lot of people swear by their collet dies.

There's also Wilson & Wilson in Ramsgate...well Minster actually, but his range of cartridges is a bit limited. Worth a visit to view his centrefire stock though.

Reloading there probably isn't much difference between the two. The 223 uses less powder. Around 25grains vs 38 grains in a 22-250. The primers are the same price as are the bullets, brass is cheaper but averaged over five or six reloads it isn't a big difference. I suspect if you could find bulk factory loaded .223 substantially cheaper than 22-250 though. Reloading is a rewarding hobby which allows you to shoot more, but if you think it will save you money think again. It takes quite a while to pay back the outlay in the press and dies plus all the ancillaries.

It probably wouldn't be my first choice. Some people feel anything with ammonia will weaken the brass I don't know if Cilit Bang contains ammonia but it is likely it does. I rather doubt this myself as the amount of copper dissolved is pretty miniscule. I have used metal polish with a rag to remove the carbon around the necks and clean the cases up and I don't believe it affects the brass in any measurable way. I wouldn't allow any inside the casings though.

If the dealer is a friend I would see if he will allow you to fire some groups with it. A couple of five shot groups will soon show up it it has a problem. You need to take plenty of time with the groups to allow the barrel to cool between shots. 22-250's get hot very quickly. A friend used to have a Remington BDL with a sporter barrel. It ended up being used at a range and the barrel got too hot to touch on a couple of occasions. Not long after that the barrel went downhill fast. I doubt this had more than 500 rounds through it. If used sensibly the barrels last for years but when abused they deteriorate rapidly. It would fire a couple of shots accurately then like Doggone said it would start spraying them around. It is probably fine as not too many people shoot a 22-250 at target ranges just be aware that they can wear out barrels rapidly if misused. The Speer bullet comment was for Gram71's benefit specifically. He wanted something that wouldn't expand rapidly for muntjac. If I was shooting the 22-250 on fox I would stick with 55gr or 50gr Hornady Vmax or Nosler ballistic tips you want these to expand rapidly.

For that specific use I would give the Speer 52gr match hollow points a go. They will expand but not as violently as the Hornady Vmax or SPSX. They are also pretty cheap. Personally I would be wary of used 22-250 without having it checked with a borescope. It is a good price, but if you find it needs a new barrel it will work out a costly proposition.

SSS my Remington still has a 17 Remington Pac-Nor barrel. I wont be changing it for a Fireball till it is shot out. I may get another rifle in 17 fireball though. The Hodgdon website lists several loads for this cartridge. http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp The one thing I would stress is that if you do reload you are very careful with measurements. I don't think the Fireball is as finicky as the 17 Remington but they are prone to pressure spikes, and small changes in powder charges can make a big difference in pressure. I used to use Remington 7 1/2 primers with hot loads as they are slightly thicker cups, but now I run milder loads at around 3800fps with 25gr Vmax and use Winchester primers since they are easier to find here. When fitted with a moderator the recoil is almost non existent with 17's but they hit a lot harder than you would think considering it is such a small bullet. You might want to have a look on this forum as there are some real small calibre enthisiasts.... http://www.saubier.com/

I have a feeling the magazines are pretty expensive. Around the £50 mark.

Small calibres are addictive! When I rebarrel my 17 Remington I will more than likely swap the barrel for the 17 Fireball. The Fireball is a very efficient round and barrel life I suspect will be far better than something like a 22-250 or a Swift. You will realistically want to reload though. I doubt if you will get much change out of £25 for twenty factory rounds. When I started shooting the 17 Remington I soon gave up on factory stuff. Get yourself a good set of dies a pound of N130 and a box of 25gr Hornady Vmax (if you can find them) not the hollowpoints, and you will be in business. You will need a small funnel though. RCBS do one for around £5 I think. Not sure I would worry about the .204 over the .223. It does have a flatter trajectory but how often are you likely to shoot over 250yds? I zero my .223 at 200yds and it is easy enough to compensate for 300yd shots.

I doubt it is a stability problem but you could try 40grs and see if they are any better. You may be better off loading your own or get in touch with someone who can match a load to your rifle. When you say "no good" what sort of groups do you get?