Ackley

yes bother,thats if you want the best from the rifle you are using all these little accuract tweeks add up to consistant shooting,take a read of this http://blog.sinclairintl.com/2009/02/19/outside-case-neck-turning-for-factory-rifles/ it may help you

take a look on reloading solutions web site get the K & M stuff its cery good,you will need the cutter and expander plus both mandrels to suit

I pick up on there mate,you have no chance the keepers keep well on top of things,well they do now theres a new boy in charge

VX 3 6.5-20x40 30mm tube,custom shop fitted target turrets,side paralax,front and rear butler creeks,fine duplex ret as new in the box £650 ONO inc speical insured delivery

I bet your using cheap brass ?? but saying that even with Lapua and Norma you will get slight variations in wall thickness,not as much as your experiencing though yes I would neck turn if you have the gear or can get it done its makes a hugh difference and helps your SD and aslo consistant bullet realease,if you havnt got a tight necked chamber you will just need to lightly clean the brass with the cutter you will then see how far out some cases can be if your using the cheaper end brass by preping it correctly it will be fine and you will see results

probably darting them to be moved to another area

thats £10 so still £32 per bird

let me get this right your hoping to get people to pay £175 for a 20 to 25 bird day with 6 guns ?? 6 x 175 = £1050 if you get 25 head thats £42 per bird mate,sorry bud but your way way over priced

I will back you on that mate as i have shot in Ireland several times and the guides certainly like the head or neck shots,I must say though "you are not pressured to do this if your not confident" some of the best stalking Ive ever had was over there,its a shame it got so expensive

basically yes,you can crimp bullets with no canelure but you have to be really careful as it can damage the bullet jacket,I did a test on this years ago crimped a few bullets then pulled them,the jacket on the bullet had a groove (squashed the bullet) all the way around which you dont really want with modern dies and good brass there is no need to crimp, in the "olden days" when people reloaded and the bullet was loose in the case they crimped as they were told to do so,now in modern times with better dies,bushing dies better brass and annealing you dont need to as 1 to 2 thou of neck tension will hold any bullet securley but after all this the usual suspects will post that I am wrong and dont know hat Iam talking about best to try it for yourself mate then you can make your own mind up,good luck

the VLDs work better over distance when they have slowed down a bit,close shots you may struggle as the bullet may pass straight through,if you neck shooting why not hit the head instead its a lot more solid to help expand the bullet I have tried them and couldnt get on with them,great over distance though,but really they ar a match bullet,the best of the west relly got them into the lime light as a hunting bullet,but they dont shoot anyhting under 500 yards which in turn the bullet has slowed down and when penertrated wil expand and break up nowerdays I only use a premium bonded bullet,let us know how you get on

here you go mate these my help http://www.lapua.com/en/products/reloading/vihtavuori-reloading-data/relodata/5/73 http://stevespages.com/page8.htm

take your tongue out his backside and grow a set,whats up old man cant you insult people by yourself another thread ruined by the usual suspect

:yp: LOL what ever I cant even be bothered to reply to your ramblings,you cant buy experience your also cant get it from a book. is that the best you can come up with "spelling" wow wee what a hughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh fault that is go figure I have a feeling your a big noise on other forums but feel the need to hide behind another user name on here,I wonder why :yp: grow a set mate

yes I looked them up,similar design with the rings on the bearing surface,this allows you to be able to drive them harder,hence the high powder charge required,there is no need at all to crimp as it may cause problems on the bullet release due to the rings on the bullet

oh yes,does these bullets you have got look like barns TSX http://www.barnesbullets.com/products/rifle/tsx-bullet/ Barns are a great bullet if you decide to try them,Ive had great results from roe deer to Elan bulls in Africa

if the bullets are anything like Barns solid copper they need to be driven hard for them to work,and please dont crimp and ruin a your bullets and cases,theres no need in these modern times when using good dies

mate my comment was for Ian not for you yes we all make mistakes,its long learning curve,some people are happy to stay with the basics and use sub standard ammo whilst other try to ring the very best from there re loading always best to ask questions I wished I would have had the internet when I first started reloading it would have saved me loads of time and money reloading has come a long way since the dark ages which most on here seem to be stuck in

mate dont get invloved these people havnt got a clue,they read it in a book and they think its gospel let them get on with it,they wouldnt know consitant neck tension if they had a rope around there neck

you will struggle to find data for this combo,it dosnt really matter about the make of bullet just find a load uisng the powder you intend to run with and work it up form there this link may help http://www.reloadersnest.com/query_bw.asp?CaliberID=39&BulletWeight=140 VLDs can be a sod to load for so expect a little hair pulling

for staters bin the crimp not only is the LEE crimp die **** you dont need to crimp,it can cause all sorts of problems,realod again without the crimp and see what happens

changing the powdr charge isnt going to do anything mate with a group sixe that big,your rifle is telling you A.the bullet is wrong B.the powder is wrong C.your loading is rubbish D.something is moving on the rifle lets start from the begining and see what we can do what are you using powder bullets cases primers rifle make scope make

if thats the case seems relaoding is the thing to do,take a look around the forums sales section there is often bargain of quality relaoding items to buy,if your an engineer you will understand quaility so keep away for anything LEE,look towards RCBS and Redding used dies often come up for sale with people changing calibers,keep your eyes open

a hard question to answer due to the costs of reloading equipment brass,theres cheap and theres expensive,the cheap stuff if you want to get the best out of them you will have to work on them. bullets again,there cheap and there expensive the difference is the quailty,persoanly I would go for quality every time as this means a more consistant group powder.theres loads all around the same price,on a personal note i like Vit powders also they wotk out better value as they do in a 1k tub primers theres about £4 per 100 again buy in bulk they ens up a little cheaper now down to loading kit,theres a subject that always gets people going,theres a £80 LEE kit that will produce bullets,these may not be very good consistant rounds but they will go bang its all down to what you want to spend,its not just the reloading gear you need there case prep tools,hand priming tool,and measuruing tools and gauges I would suggest asking if theres anyone local who wouldnt mind showing you the ropes,someone who know whats there doing would help

your trianing from the day you get you pup,sitting before feeding,learning its name,coming to command,sitting on command in my opinion start young,I have a 6 month old pup thats been on a driven day 3 times already just riding around in the dog box getting used to travel and then being let out for a sniff around the game and the last drive she sits next to me watching the birds fall whilst my other dog works,