wymberley

Won't bore you with the details but occasionally we shooters were asked to clear feral cats when they became a hygiene problem. One good way of telling which was and which wasn't was to look at the neck. Domestic cats don't have to kill to survive and because the ferals do, their necks became thick with muscle not at all like its domestic cousin.

Thanks, Tungsten. Didn't think it would be comprehensive. They seem to keep that info close to their chests, probably the fact that we can't reload means we don't need to know. Cheers

Hi, Tungsten, Haven't got one of those gadgets, still trying to work out how to set the video recorder! Have had a look at the site which yours refers you to and that indicates that yours may include the BC for rimfire rounds. Would be a bit surprised if it does, but could you let me know?

OK, Tungsten, My 2.6" was for Winch sub, as is the following. Two ways to do it, so we can cross check for accuracy. 2.6" high at 50 at which range your click effect is halved. 2.6 divided by 0.125 = 20.8, ie, come down 21. Zero at 50 is -4.8 at 90 so you need to come down that much. Click effect here is 90% or 0.225. 4.8 divided by .225 = 21.3r, ie, come down 21. Job done but please bear in mind the previous remarks about rimfire and scopes. Now you're in trouble, you may as well turn it around and have another go. Cheers

Hi, Tungsten, Two things to bear in mind: We're talking rimfire here so it's not possible to be pedantic. Unless you've won the lottery you probably won't be using the quality of scope whereby you can rely on the accuracy of the clicks. At best they will just be an indication of what to expect. You haven't mentioned what rounds you are firing - sub-sonic or whatever? If you post that info, I'll try to help.

Hi, The answer is approximately 2.6". However, it's best to listen to Stuartp.

Yes, Tosspot, but I had the simple modification devised by Gough Thomas done whereby you can selectively inhibit the ejectors.

Pavman, We agree: the slight discrepency between each of our last set of figures is simply down to your 2950 and my3000. I got the BC from Sierra and Hornady (products, bullets - there is no 60 V Max in the products, ammunition). There's been some good posts on this one, but the reasons why I use 55 is that you get a minimum bullet drop at my self imposed max. of 300 yards consistant with minimum windage effect and good enery at the300. Also, my Tikka 223 varmint stainless cost what to me is a lot of money. Two things wear out a barrel: The number of rounds down it which, if your'e going to use it, is beyond your control and secondly, the speed of those rounds. Hornady load 40gr at 3800fps. No thanks, my 3350 is fast enough. Cheers and good shooting

Hi, Pavman, Thanks for the tip, I didn't know about the Hornady calculator site; have always used the Sierra Infinity Suite. Are you sure you haven't got the 40 and 60gr figures mixed up? I ran your 40 and 60 with a (hopefully) sensible 3500 and 3000fps respectively at 200 and 300 yds on both programmes which agreed to within one decimal point. 40 at 10mph gave 5.4 at 200 and 13.1 at 300. 60 gave 4.7 at 200 and 11.5 at 300. Ballistic co-efficient of 60gr, 0.265. Cheers

Pavman, Im having trouble (again) layout looks good until I hit Add Reply then it all goes pear shaped as though my space bar key isn't being recognised, even though I hit enter. I'll explain the top row of figures, bottom as per. 250 is range, -4.2 is drop, 8.8 is wind, both for 40gr. Next two figures are the same for 55gr. Should you like more, I'll PM it. Cheers

Hi, Out of interest, ran the ballistics on Sierra, both V Max, both 150yd zero, both 2" sighht centre. 40gr 55gr Drop wind 10mph cross Drop wind 10mph cross 250 -4.2 8.8 -4.1 7.0 300 -8.6 13.2 -8.4 10.4 Muzzle velocity for my 55gr is 3350fps, the 40 at 3500. If you want, I am happy to modify the figurest o whatever you would like to have a look at. If the above seems a bit queer, the ballistic co-efficient for the 40 is 0.200 whereas the 55 is 0.255. Cheers

Hi, Birdboy, Charged my battery (same as yours), disconnected as soon as green went out, let it stabilize for 30 mins and checked voltage; just scraped 13. Used it last night but not with my rifle lamp - another hand-held lamp spotting for my oppo, so can't compare but as nowt has changed I know it would have soon dimmed. Recharged using Cluson 800mA and after similar stabilizing period had 13+ volts. Again as nowt has changed, I know all will be well. Don't ask me to explain this, I haven't a clue. You say that you recently purchased the kit. If your charger is the 800mA and part no. DA2595, you won't find either of those descriptions on the Deben website. I'm old enough to qualify as cynical. Finally, if you find 14 volts ideal (I do), if yours came in a bag, stuff your head in and see if you have 2 times 7 and then look at the price of a 7 and 14, I feel mine can't last much longer even though it's still fine, had it years. When the time comes, I fully intend to tear the joining tape apart, recover any joining cables (if it's possible) and save almost enough for 100 V Max (tight fisted as well).

No,mate, the young one that looks after my neck of the woods. Gorgeous and charming with it. My step-son immediately put in a second application that had absolutely nothing to do with firearms. Not saying if it was granted though. It may help if you call if you make an aide memoire of how many times you've been out, what you've learnt, etc, in case you are asked any relevant questions. Good luck

Hi, Have a chat on the phone with the FEO (have you met the blonde?) and explain that a year later you feel confident to go it alone. Can only say no, but after 12 months it may well be a positive result. 2nd Q, I'm not sure.

You know it makes sense! Have some fun.

You're welcome. Just spotted your locaton; I'm Exmouth. Couple of additional points you may find of interest: Not all chargers give the same output info, some use VA. We think we have the same one (the red indicates power on) and if so, you'll see 9.6va as well as the 8oomA. If you get one with just the VA, then; 12volt battery times 14amp divided by 9.6 and bingo. For draining the battery I've used an old cigar lighter plug with a short length of cable to which I soldered a car side light (5 watt) bulb. I'm running a little test comparing your charger with the make I now use but lamping tonight will put this back a bit. If the result is of note I'll post again when it's finished. Cheers

I know it's the obvious one, but just in case, is the barrel clear of the woodwork (floating)?

Hi, Birdboy, I'm pretty sure you'll find that the green light is supposed to come ON when the battery charge starts and OFF when it is fully charged. Do you also have a red "power" light. I've just checked on a partially charged battery to make sure that is right. Also, it is good for the battery if you fully discharge it occassionally - I rig up a bulb and let it run down. Charging time: The charger output will be specified on the body in milli amps (mA) If we have the same one, I suspect yours is 800mA. Obviously, this is 0.8A. Your required charge time for your 14A battery is 14 divided by 0.8 which is 17.5 hours. If the charger output is different (300mA, 500mA), alter the figure as necessary. To be honest, I had the same problem as you and I had a feeling that my green light was going out too soon and I now use a different make charger which has no light so I am dependent on the above method. One final point, it's always better for the battery to charge as slowly as possible so if I know that I won't be needing it straight away, I'll charge with my flapper battery (1.2AH) charger at 300mA. Hope that helps.

Hi, Good news,Lanks. I'm pleased that what I thought the problem might be wasn't. The wrong eye dominant is a right pain in the rear. Good shooting,cheers.

Sid, Scenario gets worse! Each has its own title, but has your local constabulary got a countryside crime/liaiason/whatever department? Might be worth a discreet chat if so.

Hi, Sid, Nightmare senarios. Get yourself a copy of Fair Game by Charlie Parkes and John Thornley. It's worth every penny and not just for this matter. Lurchers; leaving rifle where it is, approach close enough so they can hear you and ask them to leave explaining what you are doing. If they won't,or it gets dodgy, back off and leave. There's always tomorrow. Lamping; speak to farmer and ask what he wants done about it. Hopefully, if there's no one else shooting with his permission, he'll say call the police. It may not be just rabbit that they're after. Parking; polite note left under wipers explaining that this is a working farm, please don't block access. That should keep you OK until the paperwork is in your hands. Good luck.

Stubble?

That's right. Also, for this reason some magnum loads come in similar sized boxes. May be prudent to see if the proof spec. which should be on the boxes matches your gun. chers.

Hi, Lanks, lead or the lack of it, is what I'm on about particularly for a right-handed shooter missing left to right. Did you check your dominant eye? Ability with a rifle doesn't enter into it.

Hi, Lanks, Choke is fine provided that is what the gun is actually shooting. If you're consistantly missing left to right, check your dominant eye, particularly if you're a right-handed shooter. PS, typed this twice, screen threw up "error" so anything could happen!