JohnfromUK

+1 I have a similar problem on a Merkel sidelock. When fired, the tumbler presses the firing pin against the (now dented) primer. As you open the gun, the cocking lever (uses levers not rods) should move the tumbler back as the mainspring is compressed - allowing the firing pin to move back, but any free movement or slack before the cocking lever is moved - and the pin will not move back in time and will 'drag' on the primer. Mine is going to be sorted (by attention to the cocking lever I believe). I have had it looked at - and apparently not a problem to do - just that at present - I wanted the gun for something else - and the gunsmith was very busy (when is a good one not?), so will be done a bit later. I have also in the past experienced a similar problem on a side by side AyA Yeoman - its not an uncommon problem.

I have used Young's 303 for over 40 years. It used to be good stuff, but the most recent tin is clearly different (smells quite different). Seems to work OK, but whether it provides the same long term protection, I don't know. I believe the old formula was slightly alkaline, and left a slightly alkaline pH to the surface coating that was beneficial in reducing the risk of corrosion.

I won't have WD40 near my guns. Its a water dispersant - and for that its OK, but not as good as warm air. It doesn't lubricate, and is based on a paraffin like solvent with some silicones. Probably does no harm, but its not a gun cleaner.

The second item down for $19.95 is the 3 pin one part no 590-017-003WB 3-Pin Tool I have bought from Brownells on several occasions - I have actually bought the 2 pin version of this. Very good service - but usual delays in UK customs - and may or may not have to pay VAT. Depends on what customs feel like. There is an 'official threshold' below which you don't pay, but I have found that sometimes its above - and you don't get charged. What I can't say is whether it will fit a Ugartechea. The Americans seem to call disc set strikers 'bushings'. You use them in a socket.

Two and 3 pin tools available here http://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/bolt-parts/firing-pin-parts/firing-pins/firing-pin-bushing-tool-prod8874.aspx Remember many have the disc locked by a vent screw at the side - and the discs can be pigs to remove even after the vent screw is removed

Try Classic Sporting Doubles - or Classic Doubles

Before you fit a pad {which will probably either alter the length, or need wood removal), why not try some light loads? Nothing to loose by trying some.

One of the most important things with oiling/greasing a gun is to regularly clean off the old oil/grease and replace with new. The reason for this is that the oil/grease picks up dirt, dust, powder residue - and forms a sort of paste that can be quite abrasive. Clean this off on a cloth, patch etc - and you will see how dirty it is compared to fresh new oil/grease. Cleaning off all of the old oil/grease takes away most of this dirt. A small smear of new oil/grease applied will keep things good. I'm not particularly fussy about the make/type of grease (I actually use Parker Hale Express oil and Castrol light general purpose grease) - and I keep both clean and sparingly applied. I've had some of my guns now over 40 years and they do OK like this!

Should be a tiny smear. I use a cocktail stick to apply a tiny amount to the sliding surfaces.

I think most game guns shoot a little high as well, 60/40 being considered normal because most game is rising/incoming. I had assumed most clays guns were more 50/50, but no firm knowledge. The only gun I had formally fitted (Beretta game model) was about 60/40, but another I have tried on the plate (no fitting) was nearer 50/50 ish.

Its not necessary to go to 40 yards (which needs very large paper sheets) to see where the pattern is going. I believe a lot of places use 15 to 20 yards. Personally, I would go to a gunfitter/shooting school because you will not learn much by treating the gun like a rifle and lining it up with 'sights'. Most guns when 'aligned' like this will shoot where expected. What you need to do is to see where the gun places the pattern when mounted normally and instinctively - and this is quite hard to do. This is where someone with experience will be able to see what is happening.

Correct - and a good Payne Galwey brush + decent solvent cleaner are things that you will never regret having. A specialised chamber brush you may fine a bit of a white elephant.

I would buy a Payne Galwey barrel brush and a decent solvent gun cleaner (e.g. Phillips Gun Barrel cleaner or Bisley Bore cleaner - or even Youngs 303, though that may not be so good for plastic?) If things are really bad, you might try a steel Turks Head type brush, but these are very aggressive and should be used as a last resort and with great caution. Not sure where (or even whether) you can get these now.

They shouldn't be in the chamber, as the plastic wad only first contacts the barrel walls when it leaves the opened case, by which time it will be pretty much in the forcing cone. The Payne Galwey brushes are very good. The chamber brush (with its own handle) I have has a rather short handle, and I suspect with 3" chambers and long forcing cones might not be long enough. The threads enable the brush part to attach to a normal rod, so the handle was a bit of a white elephant, and rarely use the brush. I don't use WD40 (gun cleaning is not what it is formulated for, its a water disperser), but I know lots of people do. I suspect there are better solvent cleaners. I use Youngs 303, but I never use plastic wads.

I had a sniper repeater, and it worked really very well for a long time. Still have it, though seals have perished, but had a LOT of use

1st gun was a Webley Mk III air rifle. A nice gun spoiled by a very poor trigger - which despite repeated visits to Webleys (took it back to the factory myself in the 1970s) including a full rebuild and all new parts in the trigger - remained poor. Replaced with a lovely Weirauch HW77 that I still have. 1st shotgun was a William Powell 12 bore (18th birthday, 38 years ago) - lovely gun which again I still have.

For those of us that are 4 eyed anyway, I can recommend these http://www.over-glasses.com/index.html I have no connection other than a very satisfied customer. John

The message is that those of us (and I am certainly in this group) who are 'average' shots should avoid too much choke - which will mainly benefit the minority who are well above average shots. I think this is a well known message. However, I believe very open barrels can also give very variable patterns. In a 12, I favour IC, 1/4 and 1/2. I'm not sufficiently knowledgable to be sure, but I suspect a similar, or slightly tighter choke would be best with .410?

I have an AyA boxlock non ejector s/s .410, chambered for 3" and choked 1/2 and full. I have occasionally shot clays with it, but never felt all that 'comfortable'. Its so light that I find it hard to get a steady swing. One problem I do find is that it leads terribly (usually use Eley Fourlong), especially just in front of the forcing cones making it a pig to get properly clean. Good little gun for squirrels, but otherwise, not a great favourite of mine. The pressures in a .410 are very high (compared to a 12) and I believe open chokes can be particularly cartridge sensitive to get a decent pattern. Most usually have quite a lot of choke ex-factory.

I have several 2 1/2 chambered guns, including two with (nitro) Damascus barrels. I was advised by the maker of two of my guns that the chambers are actually approx 2 5/8" and that 67.5 mm, 67mm and 65mm are all OK provided the load is below the proof load (often 1 1/8oz). 70mm is NOT alright and nor is anything over 1 1/8oz, whatever the case. The thing to look out for is that if the gun has short chambers AND abrupt forcing cones, the opened cartridge can sometimes just not quite clear the cone. You see this as damage on the fired case - like a chewed edge to the opened end and pressures are raised. Long term damage due to raised pressure (the gun shooting loose) can occur if done regularly - and there is a (small) risk of short term damage (bulge - or very rarely worse). I knew someone who went on a simulated game day and fired a lot of the cartridges provided through a fine old English gun without realising they were 2 3/4" He ended up with a sore shoulder, a headache, but when cleaning the gun, he thought it was a bit loose. Took it to a gunmaker and ended up with an eyewatering bill to rectify the situation. What we don't know was the state of the gun before this all happened (slightly loose guns with rapidly loosen if overstressed) - and what the loads fired were since 2 3/4" (70mm) cartridges often carry a heavier load.

I don't know either type, but some general advice would be to try and borrow a pair to compare side by side ..... and; Compare brightness in low light (dusk) conditions Compare image sharpness especially across the whole field of view Compare ease of focus - do they come to sharp focus easily - is focussing smooth Look for poor colour rendition at edges of field of view (often purple fringing in less good grades) Look for overall field of view - bigger is usually more useful Look for robustness and quality of construction Generally - I would expect the 8 x 32 to have a less 'bright' image at dusk because the objective is smaller. However - they should be smaller and lighter in weight. Is this worth additional money? Only you can answer that.

The very large (56 and 50 etc) objective lens sizes are only an advantage in poor light. 42 is a good choice in 7 or 8 magnification. If you are using them mostly in good light, you can go smaller (say 30, 32 etc) and save weight (and cost). Also, the higher magnifications, whilst tempting just tend to magnify the shake. All the better makes (Leica, Zeiss, Swarovski) are excellent and its hard to choose one over another.

They are Spanish and were inexpensive when new. I had a friend who had one 25 years ago and it was reliable, but the workmanship inside was what you would expect in something inexpensive.

And the larger half knows it doesn't!

Beretta 'list' prices always seem quite out of touch with reality. When I bought a new Beretta some years ago, most dealers were offering similar if not identical prices - and all well below the 'list' price. The sensible thing is to look/phone around for the 'going rate' and ignore the 'list' price.