Browning

an excellent choice of rifle - the group you shot is very good and i would stick to that load for now I won't be changing it at all Tulky

Flytie, What do you want to use the rifle for? If you're thinking of 500 yard varminting then I would agree with what Steve says. However, if you're looking for a solid stalking/foxing rifle, that will be used mainly up to 150/200 yards ish, then you will have no problems with a T3. My stalking rifle is a T3 Hunter in .270Win and I can honestly say I have absolutely no problems with the accuracy up to 150/200 yards, which is the very maximum I would take deer with anyway. Prior to my new vermin control rifle I had a T3 in .243 Win, and again the accuracy of that rifle was amazing out to 200 yards. Both of these rifles have a had a lot (over 3000 rounds between them) of work and have never let me down.

.243Win

3 shot group Tulky....but I'm stil over the moon

After two days of working loads up and messing about with seating depths, I think the new baby is now ready to see some action.... Loaded for 75gn VMax in Lapua brass using Fed 210 primers Worked powder charge up from 43gn to 46gn H414, in .5gn increments. Finally settled for 45.5gn. Then worked OAL from 2.230" to 2.275" (Measured to Ogive), and ended up 2.270" OAL to Ogive, which is just touching the lands. No signs of pressure at all, so I'm happy to run with this load. This is what she will do at 100yds with a 3 shot group.

Very nice looking Cocker V-max, good pics.

That's the one Conor. I'll persevere with it until Christmas, when hopefully Santa will have left a Jewel trigger under the tree.......

Conor, I've been messing around with the Rem trigger for 2 months now and just can't get it anywhere near. I'm not too bothered about a light pull, but I do need a consistant pull, and this trigger just isn't consistant at all. I guess I just got a bad one.

Cheers Oly, I'll check them out. Regarding the scope, I bought it online from the US IOR/Valdada website and had it shipped to my mates house in the US. Mrs Browning then collected it and carried it back for me on a business trip. All in all I paid approx $1100 for the scope, 35 mm rings and a picatinny rail.

I agree Stu, pretty much in line with how our days on the hill usually run. I was pleased to see him do his own gralloch, from the bit I saw it looked like he new what he was doing.

Dougy - A good friend of mine in the US swears by IOR scopes, from what he told me they are becoming a very much sought after scope over there. So I took a punt and bought one. Cheaper than Swaro and Schmidt, and I reckon the optics are every bit as good as good as the Swaro on my stalking rifle. So far I'm very very impressed with it. Oly - Cheers mate. SS - I'm going to zero and see how she groups this afternoon, I've loaded a wide range of ammo so hopefully I'll find her 'hot spot'. V-Max - Where did your mate get his Jewel trigger? That's the next 'mod' on my list. The new Remmy triggers are OK'ish but still don't quite hack it.

Following the recent spate of gun porn I thought I would show off my new baby....... Rifle - Rem700 SPS Varmint in .243Win caliber. Devcon bedded into Wild Dog Tactical stock. A-Tec sound mod. Scope - IOR 3-18 x 42 Illuminated tactical reticle, 35mm tube. Furnished by SYSS (Excellent set of lads ). Collected yesterday, loaded some ammo last night.....work today is cancelled!!

Yes, your seating die will allow you to select the depth that the bullet is seated. Regarding which dies to buy.....any of the standard makes of dies (Lee, RCBS, Redding, etc) will give you good enough accuracy for normal hunting, you only really need the two die set (Sizer die and seating die). My personal preferance is RCBS. If you are just starting reloading this caliber I would suggest starting off at SAMMI length, and work up your load slowly. You will only see higher pressures if you seat your bullet into the lands. Once you have an accurate load you can fine tune by experimenting with different bullet OAL. Get yourself a bullet length comparator, which measures to the ogive of the bullet if you want to do this accurately, as measuring the length to the tip of the bullet will never give you repeatability.

So get some land with rabbits, squirrels and perhaps foxes.

If it fits you then buy one. I'm over the moon with mine.

Take a look at A-Tec, I have one on my new .243 and am very impressed with it.

I was taught that a keeper (full time/part time, doesn't make any difference) should ALWAYS be up when his Pheasants arise (i.e. first light), otherwise how will you know where they are heading when they leave the pen area, and how can you ensure they are heading in the correct direction (i.e. The covers). I know I certainly am, every day.

Try the link below Sweepy. Muzzle Energy Calculator All you need to do is enter the Mass (grains) and velocity (feet per sec) and the calculator will do the rest.

I've always found Federal V-Shok wokred extremely well inmy Tikka (Not as good as homeloading though...). But I would still try out a small batch of a few different brands to see what works best for your rifle.

To make your bipods more stable, try tying a length of slim rope around the hinge point. Make it long enough so you can tie a loop in the other end. Then all you have to do is stand on the looped end and you have a tri-pod. I find this just as stable as my mates tri-pod, but without the hassle of deploying three legs.

Mung you will be able to shoot CWD and Munty's from october this year with your .223 as long as you have it covered on your FAC. PELTMAN And as long as you use appropriate bullets. i.e. Soft or hollow points

SS. My Tikka T3 in .243, shooting 85gn Sierra gamekings, culled 8 Munties and 47 foxes last year ! No change of bullet required! As John Galway says, people on here are not trying to sell yo anything.

Happy Birthday YP, have a good un.

SS. If your brother in law is willing to carry a scope for you from the US, I would highly recommend looking at the IOR range of scopes. They are built in Romania, and use Schott lenses (German manufactured). The scopes ara a little "Agricultural" in that they are as solid as a rock, you feel you could drive a truck over them without damaging the scope. I have a 3-18x 42 Illuminated with 35mm tube, and I have to say the optics quality is amazing. Every bit as good as my 3.5-10x42 30mm Swarovski for clarity, and better for dusk/dawn light gathering. The US sales arm of IOR is Valdada Website