Windswept

Well, the rough cost to me per round would be about 16p (a primer is about 4p, powder 3p, lead head 8p, brass say 1p as I get many reloads per case). You can get that down by making your own heads and shopping about. But you also need to factor in equipment and time, which can be almost any price. If you shoot a fair bit though it does mean you don't have to keep going to an RFD to buy ammunition as you can hold any amount of parts.

Just a couple of comments. You say the OAL of the brass should be 2.222", this is the max length and you should note recommended trim lengths which seems to be 2.212". I can't easily check the minimum length but I think it is around 2.202" but check that for yourself. I've used TAC in a .308 and know people who are happy with it in a .303, there's data online here: https://www.ramshot.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/WesternPowdersHandloadingGuide8.0_WEB.pdf 38.0 grains is under the max listed but it's a different make bullet. I'd follow the advice above as much will also depend on your rifle.

You can tell that's not a genuine message as they're not threatening you with a visit from their enforcement team.

Is this any use, down in Devon? AYA #3 Boxlock Beaver tail fore end and 3" chambers. http://www.bluefoxglade.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=79_76_112_166&product_id=2261

Aspen 2 is an alkylate fuel and can stay fresh for several years. One of the main benefits is that it doesn't contain ethanol like pump fuel and this can cause problems in machinery that isn't frequently used. (Ethanol can absorb water and damage some plastics and rubbers.) Other brands are available such as Stihl's MotoMix which is what I use in my Stihl Saw. Having said that, my little MS170 has gradually become harder to get it to idle without stalling until the saw has had half a tank through it.

The only other thing I can thing of is excessive headspace, i.e. the round is too small for the chamber and there's too much room between the bolt face and the primer.

Are your primer pockets cleaned out, the right depth and are the primers seated fully?

I tend to use TAC on much lighter bullets as it's quite a fast powder for 308. Ramshot does publish it's data online, funnily enough it differs a fair bit to my Sierra manual which has lighter loads compared to the Ramshot data. https://www.ramshot.com/load-data/

You could try emailing Sierra, contact details on their site, and they may be able to help you. The data you posted matches the Viht site but my old Sierra load data has a max load for 190gr Sierra HPBT as 43.4 and a much lower max load for the 200gr Sierra bullets. This may be partly explained by the different test barrel lengths used in the data.

I've always called them living stones Lovely flower, tempted now to try another packet of seeds. There was a chap on a recent Gardeners World who grows quite a collection, 16mins in if anyone's interested. https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m000m23m/gardeners-world-2020-episode-24

I don't know if a piece of UK walnut would be suitable but you could try asking here: https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/forum/67-milling-forum/ Or seeing if there's any small mill local to you here: https://sawmillers.co.uk/

It looks like 'John Downie' which is a very commonly planted crab apple.

I didn't mean put up with having to let it cool but just trying one or two to try and find out what is wrong. Good luck with the new rifle, hopefully it'll sort the issue.

As mentioned I wouldn't rule out the fact you can't use PPU in the rifle and neither is at fault. A quick google shows up similar problems, one suggestion if it happens again is to let the rifle cool and see if the case is easier to extract.

I had a similar problem with my .308 when it was new, also with the PPU rounds. Some would not chamber and the RFD was unable to help. I eventually discovered SAAMI guidlines mean a .308 rifle has to have a minimum chamber headspace of 41.40mm but a 308 case could have a headspace up to 41.50mm. So a maximum length round will not fit into a rifle with a minimum length chamber. I also gather the firing pin on a new rifle can also stick out slightly making it hard to chamber a long round. The Lapua brass may well have a shorter headspace and a sizing die may well size the brass to the minimum length. I've never had any problem with them. I don't know if this has anything to do with your problem as I don't understand why they will not extract after firing.

Interesting thanks, that explains my loose fitting primers in my once fired Eley .410s.

I wouldn't of thought so otherwise it would be cheaper to get powders delivered from shops. From: https://personal.help.royalmail.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/96/~/prohibited-goods---personal-customers#Explosives

I don't mind warnings but, as mentioned, I have reloaded a fair bit over the years and am fairly careful. Plenty of people seem to use nitro powders in the magtech cases, this old thread for example: https://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/105920-410-brass-cartridges/ I've seen it mentioned the brass cases are at least as strong as plastic, but I'll be cautious and others can make up their own mind. Thanks. I was also wondering if I should use a magnum large pistol primer as other similar powders would use a magnum primer in a pistol case. (I'm assuming a large rifle primer wouldn't be wise?) Certainly the .430 nitro card seems to fit a bit too easily but you can't buy anything around .435 so I'll have to make some of my own.

Why is that? Not arguing, but curious. Plenty of people seem to load .410 in brass and the comments I've seen suggest they should cope better than plastic. However, the description of the MagTech cases does say for use with black powder. On the BP note, could you use something like Pyrodex or 777?

Thanks for the welcome and replies. Yes, brass cartridges do seem a bit more difficult than plastic but that's half the appeal. I have no problem at all sourcing primers for the brass cartridges. I've used the four ten site a fair bit but they don't seem to have a forum or any specific brass cartridge data, unless I've missed it. 2400 was another choice and it seems SP3 might be another but it would be useful to know if the powder is at fault or something else such as too small a nitro card.

Evening all, this is my first post so be gentle. I have a fair bit of rifle & pistol loading experience but little shotgun. I fancied trying the MagTech brass .410 cases and sorted out the appropriate .430 nitro card, wads and .450 overshot card etc. I don't have specific load data so chose a starting powder level by looking at the data for the plastic cases on the Alliant site. The problem is they often don't fire or they don't fire well. I'm aware of the need to compress the powder and to glue in the overshot card (using Duco Cement) but even then they are a bit hit and miss, and when they do fire they leave a lot of fouling in the barrel. Does anyone use Alliant .410 in brass cases and if so does it work? Any advice on what else to try? I get better results if I lightly roll crimp the brass case but, long term, I'd rather not do this. I note the actual internal measurement listed for the cases is .433 and I don't know if a nitro card wider than .430 would help? Does anyone know where I can source load data specific to the MagTech .410 cases? Should I be using slightly more powder than a plastic case? Would I be better of with a different powder?