loopers

[webster]

any tips please on fast long aching loopers Iam stuggling. I am tying to shoot them as a crosser but cant get the sight picture right . webster

[COACH]

Where are you too in Hampshire ?

[webster]

Where are you too in Hampshire ?

Hi coach We are midway between Southampton Fareham

[Chard]

I find that it's very dependant on how far out they are. I shoot close loopers completely differently to long range ones,

especially if the close ones are quartering as well

Edited February 3, 2010 by Chard

[beretta]

you would have to see the target before you can make comment really as they can be so different. quartering, crossing, high, shallow. all need different approaches and even styles to shoot them consistantly.

 

 

no easy answer.

[COACH]

I`m with Beretta. They are all so different.

Your a little far away for me really unless you fancy getting on the A303 to Mere In Wiltshire.

I get quite a few people come up from the coast it takes about an hour I`m told from Southampton.

[Mungler]

There is a knack to them, but it's difficult to "describe" in the written word.

 

E.g. a long right to left looper, I would wait for the clay to pass through the peak of the loop / arc and then add lead to where I perceive the clay to be falling into i.e. "give it some" lead on the left to right axis and a little bit underneath.

 

Where most people miss loopers is not actually over / under the target but by just not giving the target enough lead "right to left" (using the example above). The starting point on "lead" is to ignore the fact that the clay is looping but look at how far out the target is, how fast it is travelling and to imagine to yourself how much lead you would give it if it was a straight right to left crosser. Using this technique most people are able to nick or clip a first or second target to get their bearings and then go from there.

 

There, does that make any sense?

Edited February 3, 2010 by Mungler

[webster]

There is a knack to them, but it's difficult to "describe" in the written word.

 

E.g. a long right to left looper, I would wait for the clay to pass through the peak of the loop / arc and then add lead to where I perceive the clay to be falling into i.e. "give it some" lead on the left to right axis and a little bit underneath.

 

Where most people miss loopers is not actually over / under the target but by just not giving the target enough lead "right to left" (using the example above). The starting point on "lead" is to ignore the fact that the clay is looping but look at how far out the target is, how fast it is travelling and to imagine to yourself how much lead you would give it if it was a straight right to left crosser. Using this technique most people are able to nick or clip a first or second target to get their bearings and then go from there.

 

There, does that make any sense?

Thanks Mungler I can work with that .It appears to a bit of guestimate to begin with, with out to much gun speed Is that a reasonable assumption? And to reply to coaches offer Thanks very much If I cant make any progress with this I could well take up your offer . My wife shoots as well and we have been to Wood Farm at Mere a few times. its about 1 hour 3/4 trip thanks to all

[Paul223]

I used to hate loopers, could never get them and found them really annoying, then about 12 or so years ago some one explained an idea which has had me hitting them very well since, so here goes, it's not the easiest of things to explain but for a looper traveling from right to left imagine a square box around the clay, the size of the box depends on the speed of the clay and how much lead it needs, our clay is travelling from right to left and has passed the apex (top of it's travel) the clay is 'positioned' in the top right hand corner of the box and you need to shoot in the bottom left corner, if the clay was still approaching the apex you 'position' the clay in the bottom right and shoot in the top left.

 

If you have access to trap and clays try a clock method, set the trap up to throw a looper and shoot the clay from along side the trap ( 12 o'clock), an easy ish target, after a few breaks move to 1 o'clock and do the same, on each move you will notice how much more the lead and drop/rise increases and at 3 o'clock you will have a full looper, if you still have problems move back to a stand where you were hitting and burn' this picture into your mind, try minutes of movement until you get there, hope this helps.

[Chard]

I used to hate loopers, could never get them and found them really annoying, then about 12 or so years ago some one explained an idea which has had me hitting them very well since, so here goes, it's not the easiest of things to explain but for a looper traveling from right to left imagine a square box around the clay, the size of the box depends on the speed of the clay and how much lead it needs, our clay is travelling from right to left and has passed the apex (top of it's travel) the clay is 'positioned' in the top right hand corner of the box and you need to shoot in the bottom left corner, if the clay was still approaching the apex you 'position' the clay in the bottom right and shoot in the top left.

 

If you have access to trap and clays try a clock method, set the trap up to throw a looper and shoot the clay from along side the trap ( 12 o'clock), an easy ish target, after a few breaks move to 1 o'clock and do the same, on each move you will notice how much more the lead and drop/rise increases and at 3 o'clock you will have a full looper, if you still have problems move back to a stand where you were hitting and burn' this picture into your mind, try minutes of movement until you get there, hope this helps.

 

 

Nicely explained, chap. That's more or less what I do

[Chard]

I used to hate loopers, could never get them and found them really annoying, then about 12 or so years ago some one explained an idea which has had me hitting them very well since, so here goes, it's not the easiest of things to explain but for a looper traveling from right to left imagine a square box around the clay, the size of the box depends on the speed of the clay and how much lead it needs, our clay is travelling from right to left and has passed the apex (top of it's travel) the clay is 'positioned' in the top right hand corner of the box and you need to shoot in the bottom left corner, if the clay was still approaching the apex you 'position' the clay in the bottom right and shoot in the top left.

 

 

Nicely explained, chap. That's more or less what I do

 

The faster the clay is moving, the more rectangular the box gets

Edited February 3, 2010 by Chard

[Anni]

Nicely explained, chap. That's more or less what I do

 

 

Why do you miss them then

 

You've been thinking outside the box aint ya

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 3, 2010 by Anni

[Chard]

Why do you miss them then

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

******* white van men

[George1990]

Cheers Paul

 

Had two or three stands of loopers at Southdown last saturday... hate em. I'll try this next time

[webster]

I used to hate loopers, could never get them and found them really annoying, then about 12 or so years ago some one explained an idea which has had me hitting them very well since, so here goes, it's not the easiest of things to explain but for a looper traveling from right to left imagine a square box around the clay, the size of the box depends on the speed of the clay and how much lead it needs, our clay is travelling from right to left and has passed the apex (top of it's travel) the clay is 'positioned' in the top right hand corner of the box and you need to shoot in the bottom left corner, if the clay was still approaching the apex you 'position' the clay in the bottom right and shoot in the top left.

 

If you have access to trap and clays try a clock method, set the trap up to throw a looper and shoot the clay from along side the trap ( 12 o'clock), an easy ish target, after a few breaks move to 1 o'clock and do the same, on each move you will notice how much more the lead and drop/rise increases and at 3 o'clock you will have a full looper, if you still have problems move back to a stand where you were hitting and burn' this picture into your mind, try minutes of movement until you get there, hope this helps.

This is a great explaination I will certainly give it a try I am assuming I pick up the clay swing down to the appropriate corner shoot and keep moving . Or do you guess the coner and rifle it ?

[Cosmicblue]

Being fairly new to the sport - just about 2 years now I have fairly vivid memories of learning to break pesky looping targets, two different coaches both came up with alternative approaches:

 

1) If the target is looping fast - say right to left. imagine the target is travelling across a clock face - when the target gets to two o'clock swing straight across to where 10 o'clock (or wherever the opposite side of the clock face would be) and pull the trigger. It's one of those spooky moments when that target breaks and my tiny brain is processing 'no way'!

 

2) The technique above works most consistently for me, I found the second approach difficult to master and not easy to get comfortable with - and that's to pre-mount the gun say 15ft above the trap and angle it so as to be able to trace/mirror the trajectory of the target - so your swing is also a loop, just like the target. You can decide how much lead is required and pull the trigger knowing that the gun is following the same path as the clay. It does work - though it is a bit too easy to get a bruise - however if I've missed the first two then I'm open to suggestions at that point!

Edited February 3, 2010 by Cosmicblue

[Paul223]

This is a great explaination I will certainly give it a try I am assuming I pick up the clay swing down to the appropriate corner shoot and keep moving . Or do you guess the coner and rifle it ?

I go for maintained lead and maintain the 'box' if that make sense, how do you normally shoot, swing through or maintained lead, just use whichever way but consider the box element

[Chris Bb]

Hi coach We are midway between Southampton Fareham

Whereabouts do you normally shoot? Birchwood Farm (Romsey) is on this Sunday. Not been there yet but always ready to try a new one.

[peter-peter]

any tips please on fast long aching loopers Iam stuggling. I am tying to shoot them as a crosser but cant get the sight picture right . webster

two ways either .

track in front of the clay and lean your body in the direction the clay is going.

or wait till the clayy reaches the apex and spead a carpet of lead a couple of feet under the clay in the direction it is heading let it fall into the shot.

once you get the hang loopers become simple.

[beretta]

lean your body??

 

till you fall over :o

[Paul223]

spead a carpet of lead

 

hose it out of the sky like a fireman

[benelli montefeltro]

I go for maintained lead and maintain the 'box' if that make sense, how do you normally shoot, swing through or maintained lead, just use whichever way but consider the box element

i take it you have seen digweeds dvd as well then? only because i have seen the dvd i kinda knew wat you were tlaking about. otherwise i would be saying, boxes!!! what the hell are you talking about!

[Paul223]

i take it you have seen digweeds dvd as well then? only because i have seen the dvd i kinda knew wat you were tlaking about. otherwise i would be saying, boxes!!! what the hell are you talking about!

erm no, rather suprisingly I dont have any clay shooting dvd's, at all. Got a couple of warrener dvd's though

 

To the original poster 'find' yourself a copy of the digweed dvd, that'll help loads

[benelli montefeltro]

erm no, rather suprisingly I dont have any clay shooting dvd's, at all. Got a couple of warrener dvd's though

 

To the original poster 'find' yourself a copy of the digweed dvd, that'll help loads

i thought that digweed had created this box theory for shooting loopers and battues and the like. obviously not. just out of interest could you explain your take on the "box" technique a little better, as i find it hard to grasp

[Mungler]

I don't like the "box theory".

 

I was taught the "window theory" which is much much better.