At what range

[funky]

Hi all have not posted for some time hope you are all well ....

 

Question is at what range do you zero a .243 if you posses this calibre, I am using at the moment remington 100gr .... your advise would be appreciated

[steyrman]

I have mine 1/2" at 100yds works for me

[Beardo]

1" high at 100 yards

[Sprags]

I zero at 100yds and dial the shots!

[mikee]

1" high at 100m, point and squirt to about 225

 

mikee

[gixer1]

on the bull at 100 and has been said point straight at it up to 200ish...

[game_boy]

1" High @ 100yrs. Federal Power Shock 100gn.

[Dekers]

200 yards!

 

But it doesn't really matter what anyone else has as a zero, it what works for you that is important!

[verminator69]

1"" High at 100yds fella. :blink:

[magnum]

1"" High at 100yds fella. :blink:

winchester 100gr power point Edited April 27, 2010 by magnum

[Dekers]

Ok, several comments of 1" high at 100 yards...so where is your zero? :blink:

[garyb]

Ok, several comments of 1" high at 100 yards...so where is your zero?

 

 

Errr 1 inch high @ 100 yards

 

:blink:

[Dekers]

Ok, several comments of 1" high at 100 yards...so where is your zero?

 

 

Errr 1 inch high @ 100 yards

 

 

You set the scope for 1" high at 100 yards...that isn't a zero, it is 1" HIGH, at some point that setting reaches a zero!

 

So where is it?

 

ZERO is the point at which the centre of the reticle hits the centre of the target on the fall!

FIRST zero is where the reticle hits the centre of the target on the rise!

 

:blink:

Edited April 27, 2010 by Dekers

[CharlieT]

With a 70gr bullet 1" high at 100 yds will give you a 200 yd zero.

[Dekers]

With a 70gr bullet 1" high at 100 yds will give you a 200 yd zero.

 

:blink:

 

So a number of people here appear to have about a 200 yrd zero, depending on ammo and barrel length!

 

[garyb]

Exactly...

 

You can't say "true" zero at X ammount of yards with a 1inch high zero.

 

There are simply to many factors to be able to work out the drop, and everyones gun / load will be different. From what I remember I "think" my zero is about 175-180 yards.

 

For me - I can shoot foxes from 25 - 200 yards by holding straight on them.

[pavman]

1 inch high at 100 on Hornady 58 grain Charlie stoppers, similar to Gazb , you get perhaps 3 seconds to make the shot so there is no time to **** about with corrections its point and go or hold over/under or windage as required....

 

have you stepped up for charlie on your bit :thumbs:

Edited April 28, 2010 by pavman

[Sprags]

I understand what everyone is saying regarding the "1inch high at 100yds" but that is not zero is it? Different rifles, different loads will inevitably amount to different zero ranges even though all set at 1" @ 100yds!!

 

 

Thats why I like to zero at 100yds and dial the shots, i.e. if a fox was at 300yds I would dial 2.25MOA, or 9 clicks, and hold the crosshair smack on him!

[Beardo]

I understand what everyone is saying regarding the "1inch high at 100yds" but that is not zero is it? Different rifles, different loads will inevitably amount to different zero ranges even though all set at 1" @ 100yds!!

 

 

Thats why I like to zero at 100yds and dial the shots, i.e. if a fox was at 300yds I would dial 2.25MOA, or 9 clicks, and hold the crosshair smack on him!

 

i wish i had the time to worry about dialling in shots when in the field - i'd rather just point and shoot knowing everying between 30 and 200 yards or so is going to do the business.

[Sprags]

i wish i had the time to worry about dialling in shots when in the field - i'd rather just point and shoot knowing everying between 30 and 200 yards or so is going to do the business.

 

 

Trust me, it takes no time to dial 2.25MOA!! The key is being able to judge the distance when you first spot Charlie, that's what a lot of folk can't do. . . . . . quickly!

 

You see, I know my drop chart very well, if a fox is at 100yds, I aim straight at him, if he is at 175yds I would 'quickly' dial 0.50MOA, and again, aim straight at him. 250yds would be 1.50MOA, 275yds would be 1.75MOA and so on and so on! In my opinion, if you set yourself up at 1" high at 100yds, you then need to go out and practice and different ranges to not only find out what your true 'zero' is but also find out what your 'drop' is!

 

How many folk on here shoot factory ammo, set up at 1" high at 100yds and know nothing about the velocity of their chosen bullet, the BC of said round and the trajectory!!

 

The key to success is establishing how your chosen round performs at different ranges, judging those ranges and most of all. . . . . . practice!!!!!

 

 

EDITED TO ADD: "i wish i had the time to worry about dialling in shots when in the field" Are you saying that you spot Charlie, point and fire? Or do you spot Charlie, quickly assess the range, point and fire?

 

 

The above is, of course, only my opinion and opinions do, and always will, vary!

Edited April 29, 2010 by Sprags

[CharlieT]

Sprags

 

You are correct, everyone should zero at 100 and then they have an exact reference point from which to dial in should they so wish.

 

I personally zero all my rifles in at 100 then dial in my foxing rifles to shoot 1" high as I truly find it too time consuming to dial in whilst foxing when in some instances I only have seconds to take the shot. However I know how many clicks 1" high is so when I do have time to dial in, as you say, it is only a matter of doing so.

 

I find that using this method gives me a point and shoot setup for shots up to 235yds then I am able to dial in for the longer ones and then re dial to leave the rifle shooting 1" high.

 

charlie

[Sprags]

Sprags

 

You are correct, everyone should zero at 100 and then they have an exact reference point from which to dial in should they so wish.

 

I personally zero all my rifles in at 100 then dial in my foxing rifles to shoot 1" high as I truly find it too time consuming to dial in whilst foxing when in some instances I only have seconds to take the shot. However I know how many clicks 1" high is so when I do have time to dial in, as you say, it is only a matter of doing so.

 

I find that using this method gives me a point and shoot setup for shots up to 235yds then I am able to dial in for the longer ones and then re dial to leave the rifle shooting 1" high.

 

charlie

 

 

CharlieT,

 

Common sense prevails. . . . .

 

Once you have dialled in your foxing rifles you will no doubt know the zero of said rifle too, you do it slightly different from me, but correctly too if that makes any sense? You pre-set a range and know it well, I dial it on the night! Both methods work!

 

 

 

Before anyone jumps on me here, CharlieT zero's at 100yds and then dial's the shot to be 1" high at 100yds, that is different from saying "I zero 1" at 100yds". . . . . . very different!

 

 

Regards,Sprags

[proTOM1]

1 inch high @ 100 yards probs zero it self is 185 to 190 but happy with 200 yard and like said not often get the time to dail in .

[Dekers]

Something has passed me by, what is this all about??

 

I am truly confused about all this ****.

 

ZERO is where the centre of the reticle hits the centre of the target.

 

What is all this business of 1" high at 100 yards??? It strikes me NONE of you 1" high people actually know where your zero is, just roughly!

 

What is the issue zeroing at 100-150-200 whatever yards, (if you can take shots at that distance then you can zero at that distance) and then checking the rise or fall at other distances??

 

Setting the scope at 1" high at 100yards does not give you, or tell you where your zero is, neither does it tell you where the bullet will enter at 150-200-250 etc, yards.

 

Someone explain to me why you don't zero the rifle, what have I missed??

 

Cheers

[Dave-G]

I think the 1" high is more of a convenient zero check than actually setting the zero.

 

I set my 17 REM zero at 200 yards, which puts the bullet at about 3/4" high at 100 yards. Next time I go shooting I don't re-check the 200 yards, I just confirm the 100 yards is still 3/4" high - simples.