metalhead197235 Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 hi there please could you tell me where i can get the comb adjusted on my shotgun i am seeing to much rib. i live near darlington so a local gunsmith would be helpfull. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayman Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 (edited) hi there please could you tell me where i can get the comb adjusted on my shotgun i am seeing to much rib. i live near darlington so a local gunsmith would be helpfull. thanks Are you sure that you want to see less rib,? 90% of the adjustments I do are to get the rib seen! See-ing rib is what is wanted, and most people are either behind the action or flat to the rib. We also find that in 2/3rds of cases its mount and stance at fault, not the gun. Before you spend a fortune having the comb lowered ( unless you want to DIY it for nought but the re-finishing costs), make sure the problem ( if there is one ) - is not just the gun placement on the shoulder. The principle of the rib is you look over it beyond the gun to keep the target in full view. The eye SHOULD be at least 3mm high at the back. If its lower you tend to aim through the bead and stop the gun as a result. If its a bit high the "pointability" of the gun and use of the rib to aim ( rather than the bead) remains good. The only effect is that the gun shoots a bit high. Each 1mm the eye is high of 3mm makes the point of aim only 30mm ( 1") higher at 30 metre, and with a pattern size around .75m (30") circle thats pretty negligible. Putting this in old money, the eye 1/2" high on the action makes the gun shoot only 9" high at 30 yds, and for driven thats an advantage anyway. Get out on a pattern plate and see how high the gun is actually shooting from point of aim, and always put the clay / quarry on top of the bead, dont aim through the bead. Keeping the target in full sight and not behind the rib / bead is probably all you need to worry about, together with some advice on good mount. Edited July 20, 2010 by clayman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paulos Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Give this fella a buzz: Ian Meadley RFD, Phone: 07990594594 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chard Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Give this fella a buzz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magman Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fluke2 Posted July 20, 2010 Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Friend of mine got his gun fitted thinking it would improve his 49x50 scores stock bent/ comb adjuster/ fancy recoil pad/ forend slimmed down around 1000+ quid spent over 6 month and hours of time,the gun got part exed 8 months later for the same bog standard model that he started with cos he couldnt use it his scores halved so he went back to a new same model gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalhead197235 Posted July 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2010 Are you sure that you want to see less rib,? 90% of the adjustments I do are to get the rib seen! See-ing rib is what is wanted, and most people are either behind the action or flat to the rib. We also find that in 2/3rds of cases its mount and stance at fault, not the gun. Before you spend a fortune having the comb lowered ( unless you want to DIY it for nought but the re-finishing costs), make sure the problem ( if there is one ) - is not just the gun placement on the shoulder. The principle of the rib is you look over it beyond the gun to keep the target in full view. The eye SHOULD be at least 3mm high at the back. If its lower you tend to aim through the bead and stop the gun as a result. If its a bit high the "pointability" of the gun and use of the rib to aim ( rather than the bead) remains good. The only effect is that the gun shoots a bit high. Each 1mm the eye is high of 3mm makes the point of aim only 30mm ( 1") higher at 30 metre, and with a pattern size around .75m (30") circle thats pretty negligible. Putting this in old money, the eye 1/2" high on the action makes the gun shoot only 9" high at 30 yds, and for driven thats an advantage anyway. Get out on a pattern plate and see how high the gun is actually shooting from point of aim, and always put the clay / quarry on top of the bead, dont aim through the bead. Keeping the target in full sight and not behind the rib / bead is probably all you need to worry about, together with some advice on good mount. cheers for the advice i will leave it as it is and work harder at distance and lead to give Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Get out on a pattern plate and see how high the gun is actually shooting from point of aim, and always put the clay / quarry on top of the bead, dont aim through the bead. Keeping the target in full sight and not behind the rib / bead is probably all you need to worry about, together with some advice on good mount. :blink: also try the pound coin trick, lay the coin on it's side on top of the chamber, you should still be able to see the bead and may be a touch of rib over the coin, it's only a rough guide, pattern plate is the way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beretta Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Are you sure that you want to see less rib,? 90% of the adjustments I do are to get the rib seen! See-ing rib is what is wanted, and most people are either behind the action or flat to the rib. We also find that in 2/3rds of cases its mount and stance at fault, not the gun. Before you spend a fortune having the comb lowered ( unless you want to DIY it for nought but the re-finishing costs), make sure the problem ( if there is one ) - is not just the gun placement on the shoulder. The principle of the rib is you look over it beyond the gun to keep the target in full view. The eye SHOULD be at least 3mm high at the back. If its lower you tend to aim through the bead and stop the gun as a result. If its a bit high the "pointability" of the gun and use of the rib to aim ( rather than the bead) remains good. The only effect is that the gun shoots a bit high. Each 1mm the eye is high of 3mm makes the point of aim only 30mm ( 1") higher at 30 metre, and with a pattern size around .75m (30") circle thats pretty negligible. Putting this in old money, the eye 1/2" high on the action makes the gun shoot only 9" high at 30 yds, and for driven thats an advantage anyway. Get out on a pattern plate and see how high the gun is actually shooting from point of aim, and always put the clay / quarry on top of the bead, dont aim through the bead. Keeping the target in full sight and not behind the rib / bead is probably all you need to worry about, together with some advice on good mount. as above :blink: not sure on the 1/2" though a bit much for my liking but great for trappies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayman Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 as above :unsure: not sure on the 1/2" though a bit much for my liking but great for trappies Not suggesting that one should have 1/2". only that if you do the pattern is only 9" high at 30yds to demonstrate that while too low is a definite problem, too high is not much of one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted July 29, 2010 Report Share Posted July 29, 2010 I prefer flat shooting guns which shoot where you point. High shooting guns are okay for rising targets, but garbage for droppers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter-peter Posted July 30, 2010 Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 Are you sure that you want to see less rib,? 90% of the adjustments I do are to get the rib seen! See-ing rib is what is wanted, and most people are either behind the action or flat to the rib. We also find that in 2/3rds of cases its mount and stance at fault, not the gun. Before you spend a fortune having the comb lowered ( unless you want to DIY it for nought but the re-finishing costs), make sure the problem ( if there is one ) - is not just the gun placement on the shoulder. The principle of the rib is you look over it beyond the gun to keep the target in full view. The eye SHOULD be at least 3mm high at the back. If its lower you tend to aim through the bead and stop the gun as a result. If its a bit high the "pointability" of the gun and use of the rib to aim ( rather than the bead) remains good. The only effect is that the gun shoots a bit high. Each 1mm the eye is high of 3mm makes the point of aim only 30mm ( 1") higher at 30 metre, and with a pattern size around .75m (30") circle thats pretty negligible. Putting this in old money, the eye 1/2" high on the action makes the gun shoot only 9" high at 30 yds, and for driven thats an advantage anyway. Get out on a pattern plate and see how high the gun is actually shooting from point of aim, and always put the clay / quarry on top of the bead, dont aim through the bead. Keeping the target in full sight and not behind the rib / bead is probably all you need to worry about, together with some advice on good mount. Clayman is correct. to check the gun put a £1 coin on the rib midway between your eye and the end bead, mount the gun with your head erect and your cheekbone just on the comb. If you can see the end bead sat on the coin the gun is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 If only gun fitting was that easy. Why worry about try guns and professional gun fitters? just chuck a pound coin on the rib and as long as you can see the bead ROCK ON. What about where the gun is in your shoulder? Where your head is on the stock? or ensuring that your eye is directly behing the rib? What about feet position and can you mount the gun in EXACTLY the same place time after time? Oh no forget all that, just get a pound coin out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chard Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 (edited) Unless you're an odd shape or your gun is an oddball one, I'm afraid I take the view that you should just adapt yourself and your mount to the gun I reckon Mr Average with a Mr Average gun ought to be able to sort it out himself. Strictly speaking, if you spend a wedge on having a gun professionally fitted, then you put a few pounds on, you're screwed If I start missing inexplicably, I'll just grind my face into the stock a bit harder Edited July 31, 2010 by Chard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaun4860 Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 If only gun fitting was that easy. Why worry about try guns and professional gun fitters? just chuck a pound coin on the rib and as long as you can see the bead ROCK ON. What about where the gun is in your shoulder? Where your head is on the stock? or ensuring that your eye is directly behing the rib? What about feet position and can you mount the gun in EXACTLY the same place time after time? Oh no forget all that, just get a pound coin out If i send you my address can you send me a bag of pound coins to try this, i need a good sized bag in case i lose some shaun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayman Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Please note: The £1-00 coin exercise will only work with genuine £1-00 coins. If you use one of the supposed 5% of forgeries in circulation, gravity pulls the line of vision below the bead anyway. I can supply calibrated genuine Bank of England £1-00 coins at £5-00 each. Double the pills, doctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beretta Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 i still use the old pound notes for thsi, more room for error Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 i still use the old pound notes for thsi, more room for error Chard has been paying you for lessons again then B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chard Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 (edited) Chard has been paying you for lessons again then B A pound? Good Lord, man. I'm not silly with money Edited August 2, 2010 by Chard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beretta Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 i did not say moth eaten Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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