roundy Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Now this topic has been done to death no doubt but here goes!! I am due to move house and the place I am going to is a new build with dry-lined walls. Now when I have my visit from the FEO in Thames Valley he said that it doesn't matter if you fix to plasterboard as long as it can withstand the pulling force of (whatever the spec was). He said they understand that modern houses do not have the brick wall very accessible. (I am moving into Hampshire) I am thinking some bad *** plasterboard fixings and two coach screws down through the bottom of the cabinet into the floor boards should be cool.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imperfection Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 If thats what Thames recomend then i'd go along with it,but i'd probably confirm before installing.Be careful with the coachscrews though incase there are any wires or pipes under the floor. The ideal place obviously would be a masonry wall,but last thing you really want to do is start morticing the drywall to get to it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlistairB Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Now this topic has been done to death no doubt but here goes!! I am due to move house and the place I am going to is a new build with dry-lined walls. Now when I have my visit from the FEO in Thames Valley he said that it doesn't matter if you fix to plasterboard as long as it can withstand the pulling force of (whatever the spec was). He said they understand that modern houses do not have the brick wall very accessible. (I am moving into Hampshire) I am thinking some bad *** plasterboard fixings and two coach screws down through the bottom of the cabinet into the floor boards should be cool.... So are you planning to cut the skirting board out then otherwise it wont be flush to the wall? I had exactly the same problem. Tried to drill through the plasterboard to the blocks but the anchor bolts wouldnt purchase and they werent happy with butterfly fixings behind the plasterboard only. Spoke to the FEO about resining threaded bar into the wall and the but the werent keen. Looked at lying it on it's back in the under stair cupboard and fixing to the concrete floor but couldnt get the cabinet door open then. So I ended up lying it on it's back upstairs and using M8 coach bolts through the floor, they were very happy with that. If/when i move, the new owners wont know it was ever there. Might be an option. AB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simshaz Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 my last house had the same issue i drilled the holes into the plaserboard and marked the wall behind with the drill bit. I then drilled the required hole in the wall behind and used some 22mm pipe between the wall and the back of the cabinet as a spacer. i used extra long bolts in 4 rawbolts and also 2 coach bolts into the floor. There was a 2inch plus gap to the wall as i recall. It was a breeze wall as well which are not the best for rawbolts. you can use a bike pump and the little hose to blow the dust from the hole in the breeze block. If the dust from the block gets on the rawbolt threads it will make the bolt spin in the hole .. a pain in the ar@e especially if you are doing up the last bolt ... hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J@mes Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 I have had my cabinet in two new houses and would say that there is little chance of getting a decent hold on plasterboard, no matter what fixings you use - I think the cabinet could easily be kicked off the wall or a crowbar used to lever it off against the brick behind. I went in the loft space where I used threaded rod chemically anchored into the blocks, and there isn't a chance in hell it is moving! Not ideal as I do suffer a bit with humidity and damp up there, but I installed a small 14w heater in the cabinet to keep it dry, which has worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigG Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 I have mine attached to plasterboard in a new house. I used chemical anchor with M12 bolts into the block & plaster board. No problem with the FLO & I am in Hampshire. I like the coach bolt into the timber floor idea. When I move house the new owners will have 4 dirty great M12 bolts to hang things on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 On dry lined plaster board walls,simply mark where you are going to drill holes,cut out p/board and fill hole flush to surface with dry wall adhesive :blink: ,sets like rock and can then be drilled for normal bolts and cabinet will pull tight to the wall,infact the dry wall adhesive will be stronger than the wall behind if its thermalite blocks . If its a stud wall,take out the section of p/board behind cabinet,screw 2x2 to the studs and 18mm ply to the 2x2 then put p/board back and fill joins with dry wall adhesive and just bolt cabinet to wall with coach screws Hope this helps,atb,Karl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4eyes Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 I had exatly same same issue not so long ago. Spoke to the FEO who was more than happy with what I was doing. Mount it above the skirting board (no need to cut it then) on an external wall. Have some extra long M12 bolts drilled through the plasterboard and into the blocks behind it. I then fixed these in with the expanding metal plugs. Its solid. The only way they are coming out is either undoing them from inside the cabiner or maybe curtting the bolts in the gap between the plasterboard and the blocks, thoguh that would be one hell of a job, especialy given where the cabinet is. The FEO was more than happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 On a stud wall(whether it's dry-lined or not) the boards will be fixed at either 400mm or 600mm centres,as the boards are 1200mm wide.If you start in a corner and measure 400mm along the wall,knock in a nail at this point.If you can pull it out with your fingers(even after wiggling it!)then try the same at 600mm.if you can't pull out the nail with your fingers,then you're into a stud.All my cabinets are fixed in this manner,either with coach bolts and or chemical fixing.FEO has no worries at all.Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Even quicker, gripfill to wall, a corner is best, then glue the heads of the nuts to the inside of the cabinet so it looks like it's bolted. :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Imperfection Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Even quicker, gripfill to wall, a corner is best, then glue the heads of the nuts to the inside of the cabinet so it looks like it's bolted. :blink: LMAO! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roundy Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 I have mine attached to plasterboard in a new house. I used chemical anchor with M12 bolts into the block & plaster board. No problem with the FLO & I am in Hampshire. I like the coach bolt into the timber floor idea. When I move house the new owners will have 4 dirty great M12 bolts to hang things on! So you drilled through the plaster board and chemicaly set some M12 thread into the breeze blocks behind yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 (edited) useful link here: http://www.drylinepro.com/acatalog/this_is...chure_page.html M8 sheild anchors and Rigifix seem to be the best at over 100Kg per fixing loading. something nice about knowing it should take 0.5 tonnes of force to get cabinet off the wall! **** website but for dot and dab walls these are the ones to use http://www.rigifix.com/index.htm If wall is plaster board only then fixing to stud work required! Edited August 17, 2010 by HDAV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigG Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 So you drilled through the plaster board and chemicaly set some M12 thread into the breeze blocks behind yeah? Yes that's correct! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
originalgeezer Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Just a quick question, they have stated about the pulling force have they mentioned anything else such as what about if someone where to attack to the side of the cabinet through the plasterboard and remove it from the sides by smashing round the fixings as breeze block is not that tough either.... Just a question as not something I am an expert on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 Just a quick question, they have stated about the pulling force have they mentioned anything else such as what about if someone where to attack to the side of the cabinet through the plasterboard and remove it from the sides by smashing round the fixings as breeze block is not that tough either.... Nope if anyone wanted it that bad, they could just disc cut or kango any wall off the house! It's reasonable precautions relative to the risk. If you live in an isolated area a thief would have more time and opportunity to work on the locks etc. Hence why RFD's need end alarms with police response! a securely bolted cabinet is one part, good home security the rest. If they can't get into the house they can't get into the cabinet! They dont state the integrity of the wall either i recon much more than 0.5 of tonne would pull apart a single brick block wall without reinforcement I once reversed a fork lift into a single brick wall it split it easily with a small bump.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apache Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 How many seconds could you be into a standard gun cabinet with a 9" angle grinder? We're just talking reasonable precautions here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edr Posted August 17, 2010 Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 How many seconds could you be into a standard gun cabinet with a 9" angle grinder? We're just talking reasonable precautions here. The 18v Cordless angle grinders don't help anybody with security, especially locks and metal cabinets in a quet rural locarions. ******. EDR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 The 18v Cordless angle grinders don't help anybody with security, especially locks and metal cabinets in a quet rural locarions. ******. Nope, I would look at more basic home security once the cabinet is firmly fixed, simple stuff like prickly plants gravel paths and drives and animals, dogs/geese etc all worth considering especially if your in a rural spot. High tech stuff like electric gates and CCTV are more of an invite to expensive items than a deterrent in some instances... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSPUK Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 If you have brick or block with plaster and dab - drill 2" holes behind where cabinet will be and with a morter squirty gun fill void with runny mix of dab - when full drill another 2" hole higher up and so on - when dry use sleeve or rawl bolts - if you have wooden frame see if you can find a vertical wood beam and see if you can find some German expanding bolts - we used them at work for fitting cash box's - they are like rawl bolts but have a rubber sleeve that expands and not as destructive as rawl bolt - we never had one kicked or prized off wall. dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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