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Rear Diff Strengths


Billy.
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Long story short, I need a new diff. They're in short supply, so I've got someone taking a diff out of a Range Rover to stick in the 90.

 

I would post this on the LR forum, but he's on there and I don't want to come across as if I don't trust him and trying to counter what he's saying.

 

The guy is big on his Landys and has a couple of search & rescue defenders. He says the RR diff should be stronger, but I'm not sure what to say...

 

Anyone got some hard evidence?! It's a 24 spine diff.

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because the one previous owner just happened to be Vicky Butler Henderson or at least drive like her :lol:

 

There is logic that one designed for a big petrol engine would be stronger but have no idea personally if it is different or would fit. Personally you'd be better off going down the Pay a man approach as you want it done right. The plus point is you'll be saving a packet having it as a drive ornament :yes:

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ripped off another website, but:

 

 

24 over 10 spline diff

1. A larger diameter axle (harder to break)

2. An axle made out of better raw materials (harder to break)

3. A heat treated axle (harder to break)

4. A multi spline contact area (harder to spin the splines)

5. A thicker drive flange (more contact area)

6. A stronger CV joint that is rated for 1 ton Rovers (much stronger) *front axle only

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because the one previous owner just happened to be Vicky Butler Henderson or at least drive like her :lol:

 

There is logic that one designed for a big petrol engine would be stronger but have no idea personally if it is different or would fit. Personally you'd be better off going down the Pay a man approach as you want it done right. The plus point is you'll be saving a packet having it as a drive ornament :yes:

 

I am going down the pay a man approach. He's arriving in 45 mins...

 

This is becoming one hell of a £hri$tmas

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If its some dodgy forum member once he has given up look up Lumsden Landrovers in LU3 he will be able to sort it, put a new gearbox in one of the local shoots gun bus 101's and that was £600 all up and a diff should be a lot simpler

 

I've called around a few places and the prices go from what I'll be paying up to silly money for a replacement diff. It's not that I'll be getting a bad deal, it's just that I want to make sure I'm paying for something that'll actually not break 2000 miles down the road.

 

GB was hinting at it being the new tyres I stuck on, but the rolling radius has hardly gone up and the width has changed by 40mm.

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I would be far more concerned with getting the right ratio than whether it is stronger or not. Defenders are fairly bombproof so yours could have had some stick in the past.

 

If you ever want land rover bits look at RST Landrovers, they are about 1/4 of a mile from me and I have running back and forth to Herts quite regularly at the moment.

 

Delivery charges are fairly modest :good:

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Billy have you been using it in diff lock on the road??

 

No, most certainly not. The last time I used it was when GB and I decided to go lamping on a freshly turned over field in the rain. It got a good bit of use then :lol:

 

Saying that, I did have to use it to get home when it broke down, but it was about 1/4 mile and snowy.

Edited by Billy.
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OK, they do sometimes go but it's a rare occurrence, if you had been using it in the snow on the road in diff lock then the tyre size would make a difference but the transfer box diff should allow for it out of diff lock ( with slightly larger rear tyre you'll find most of the drive will go through the front axle, because it is easier, lower gearing) but it is not ideal.

 

do you have the habit of pulling on the handbrake before being fully stopped??

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bearing in mind its been diagnosed on the web is it definitely the diff? Could a broken half shaft or similar cause the same symptoms

 

 

Yes no drive and much easier cheaper to fix

 

The diff has to be the same as the front diff

 

Even different tyre sizes can cause problems

Edited by mfletch
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yes broken half shaft = no drive and big banging snapping noise , half shafts tend to break when taking drive up

 

easy to find out billy just undo the ring of 17mm bolts (5 of i think from memory)on the half shaft end ( center of wheel ) and slide em out see if it's snapped, should take you 5 mins don't even need to jack it up and they need to come out to do the diff which ever way ( might need to jack up and remove wheels if you have alloys with steel rims it's easy)

Edited by Paul223
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do you have the habit of pulling on the handbrake before being fully stopped??

 

Maybe once in the last year. I rarely use the handbrake whilst driving. However I do always pull away in second, which I'm certain will do harm to the clutch...

 

bearing in mind its been diagnosed on the web is it definitely the diff? Could a broken half shaft or similar cause the same symptoms

 

He's bringing a set of half shafts. However it's the same on both sides. I've lifted both sides up and the wheels spin freely and indepenantly to each other. A 'cogs not engaging, but clicking' can be heard from the diff.

 

Yes no drive and much easier cheaper to fix

 

The diff has to be the same as the front diff

 

Even different tyre sizes can cause problems

 

The tyres are brand new and the ones I took off it were ranging from 9mm to 4mm tread, so these can't be worse.

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He's bringing a set of half shafts. However it's the same on both sides. I've lifted both sides up and the wheels spin freely and indepenantly to each other. A 'cogs not engaging, but clicking' can be heard from the diff.

even with a broken half shaft each end will spin free, the drive will go to the easiest point whether a broken shaft or a stripped gear, the only real way to tell is to pull them

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If the half shafts are OK and you have both wheels in the air as you spin one side the other will rotate in the opposite direction.

 

If you have one wheel on the ground you won't be able to turn them if the half shafts are intact. Unless of course the diff is cattle trucked.

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even with a broken half shaft each end will spin free, the drive will go to the easiest point whether a broken shaft or a stripped gear, the only real way to tell is to pull them

 

 

If the half shafts are OK and you have both wheels in the air as you spin one side the other will rotate in the opposite direction.

 

 

Would you really expect to find this problem on both sides though? I'd imagine if one broke, the other side would still be ok :/

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