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.22-250


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Thanks for the replies :good:

 

 

 

I have heard the twist rates on the gun can be slightly annoying. I think ideally,(in the future) if I could reload something like a 75 grain Amax at around 3300 fps then that would give a very good BC :hmm: I don't think I will ever shoot enough rounds to wear out the rifle but I think a rebarrel to a 6mm br would be sweet :yp:

 

ATB!

 

that would be a superb tool. with a better bc then a 243 with 87 vmax. i like the 22/250 alot ive had two a wnchester stealth very godo accurate rifle and now a rpa 22/250. the winchester had over 500 rounds down it with no throat wear and they where fast loads. you just got to look after the barrel.

 

as for sound they might be abit louder then a 223. but when my friend had a 223 with ase mod on and my 22/250 had the same mod if you couldnt really tell the difference.

 

all depends what you want them for. not everyone can have a 243 just for fox. even though it is a varmint caliber. i would say over all barrel life of the 243 and 22/250 are the same.

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Thanks for the replies :good:

 

 

 

I have heard the twist rates on the gun can be slightly annoying. I think ideally,(in the future) if I could reload something like a 75 grain Amax at around 3300 fps then that would give a very good BC :hmm: I don't think I will ever shoot enough rounds to wear out the rifle but I think a rebarrel to a 6mm br would be sweet :yp:

 

ATB!

 

My 22-250 has a 1/10 unlike the usual 1/14 twist so if i start the reloading route then maybe i could push something a bit heavier than the 55g which is the heaviest i can find shop bought.

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It's too late in the evening to upload the images of the graph, so I'll post the figures which will apply to what you're after.

 

If you're shooting 55grn Federals you'll get the following with a 200 yard zero (45 yards is also the zero FYI)

 

Yards / Drop (inches)

 

5 / -1.31

50 / 0.12

 

100 / 0.99

125 / 1.1

150 / 0.99

175 / 0.63

 

200 / 0

225 / -0.92

250 / -2.15

275 / -3.73

 

300 / -5.66

325 / -8.0

350 / -10.77

375 / -14.0

 

400 / -17.75

 

 

Hope that helps :good:

Edited by Billy.
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I see no point in buying a 22-250 if you do not intend to use it for the reason it was developed, performance in the field.

 

If you don't want it firing at fast speeds then get a 223. The whole point of a 22-250 is it's ballistic performance, if you don't want that, then I see the thing as pointless, get a 223, don't buy a 22-250 and downgrade the ammo! :no::hmm:

 

Dekers i dont think you understood what i was tying to say, or maybe the way i put it across.

 

baring in mind it was developed in the early 1900's allot of things have developed since then

 

You can reduce the barrel ware down considerably by not using fast powders. These as i am sure you are aware burn allot hotter than the slower powder's.

There doesnt have to be loss of velocity, for example you can achieve simalar velocities (3800fps)using 37.5grn of RL12 or 39grn of H380 behind a 50grn bullet but the H380 is a slower burning powder powder and according to facts you will have less throat erosion by using the slower powder.

Throat erosion and cracking from heat are i would imagine are the 2 mains problems. Barrel ware will also be reduced on a match custom barrel due to the higher quality finish internaly.

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i have a 243 and a 22.250 both with mods on and i find the 22.250 dont move at all when you fire it hence a little more accurate and for noise both about the same with mods on i shoot foxs and roe with the 22.250 the 243 dont get out much from i got the 22.250

 

 

im in scotland to ?http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/public/style_images/pigeon/rte_icons/font_color.png

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Thanks for all the replies. It's always interesting to hear the different opinions!

 

 

Cheers for the ballistic data Billy! Will come in very handy :good:

 

 

I don't suppose anyone on here knows what the twists were for the old m55 .22-250's? I'm sure it will shoot well anyway but it's handy to know :hmm:

 

 

i have a 243 and a 22.250 both with mods on and i find the 22.250 dont move at all when you fire it hence a little more accurate and for noise both about the same with mods on i shoot foxs and roe with the 22.250 the 243 dont get out much from i got the 22.250

 

 

im in scotland to ?http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/public/style_images/pigeon/rte_icons/font_color.png

 

I'm surprised you have both calibers when they are pretty similar. What rounds do you use through your .22-250?

 

Are there any other types of ammo anyone on here would recommend. I saw some norma 53 grn soft point for £35....ouch!!!

 

 

ATB!

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my take on this is really if your .223 shoots well and you have a known gun stick with it, you know what you are dealing with. Buying an old 22-250 is a recipe for an expensive mistake, ok they are very flay but with that extra energy with a fast round you obviously get the extra meat damage. They are a cracking fox calibre but on deer as you already have a .223 aren't going to give you any real benefits. As you own a .270 and are north of the border its really not worth going for a .243 as you simply won't see the benefits of running one gun.

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my take on this is really if your .223 shoots well and you have a known gun stick with it, you know what you are dealing with. Buying an old 22-250 is a recipe for an expensive mistake, ok they are very flay but with that extra energy with a fast round you obviously get the extra meat damage. They are a cracking fox calibre but on deer as you already have a .223 aren't going to give you any real benefits. As you own a .270 and are north of the border its really not worth going for a .243 as you simply won't see the benefits of running one gun.

 

Thanks for the reply Alex. :good: You're actually one of the few people that have said there is little benefit in bumping up to the .243,(which I definately agree with). I was lucky enough to find a new m55. I wouldn't have enough experience,(other than general wear) to tell how much use a cf had to buy second hand. One in .223 would have possibly been better but the phrase 'hens teeth' comes to mind. Interesting point about the extra meat damage. I thought it would be less than a .243,(which most people use). I also feel that the front end of the deer is really a mincer job,(even when in good condition). :hmm: it would also make sense to stick to what works, however sometimes you just fancy a 'nicer' gun.

 

 

https://acrobat.com/#d=ucYawcaQh0eqb4sT7iXGrw

 

Here, this is the info for those Normas. Pretty tidy with a 200 yard zero :yes:

 

Took waay too long to upload with a PDF, but I did just learn that Adobe will let me host files :D

 

Again thanks! :good: :good:

 

You must be a lot better on the olde PC than I am :lol:

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Not at all mate...

 

I just can't see the sense in a 22CF used for stalking, especially when the chosen 22Cf is noisy and expensive to run compared to it's other non deer legal 22Cf counterparts.

 

A stalking gun, that can only be used on 1 type of Deer.... ?

 

Nothing stranger than folk :)

Edited by garyb
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Not at all mate...

 

 

I thought it was because I haven't got a working 22-250 at the moment

 

should it be :lol:

 

Actually... Did you sort that problem with your swaro on your 700? I'm on the market for a scope and I thought you might be ready to throw it in the bin.

 

Picked up my 700 yesterday and desperately need some glass (and mod, press.. primers... priming tool... :rolleyes: )

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simple thing I did bodge it for the time being, but my 700 had an unknown make of bases and rings, they looked leupold but Gary has got the old rings at the moment and they aren't leupold so it may be mixing the bases and rings that caused the issue.

Hopefully there won't be an issue when it goes on the new sako.

Are CCI small rifleprimers what you are after?

 

p.s you're right Garry except its about 4 layers of coke can :no:

Edited by al4x
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