Range of a HMR zeroed in.

[CROWalYeLikUrDEAD]

Just wonderin lads, I have a CZ 1.7 HMR and my scopes slightly off. I been asking around and I have found out there very flat firing gun, so most these people told me to zero it in at 150 yards or around that, but I wud say that wud b a big shot for me as I only have started shooting. in around the lad I have 150 wud b the longest shot I cud near so safely. So do I zero it I. For 100 yards saying most my shots are 60 - 100 yards? Wuldnt mind bit help here before I set her up yano cheers lads for your time.

[foxnet22]

i to was in a similar situation as from coming from airgun shooting to the hmr and .22 rimfires.i gradually built distance up with the hmr from first practising from 50yrds then moving up to 80 then 100yrds firstly setting scopes to 50yrds then zeroing to 100yrds this in my opinion lets you get a feel for the gun and gradually builds your confidence also to take a shot at rabbit etc without the risk of wounding your target as the aim is to have respect for it and dispatch it humanely.other more experienced shooters will also advise you of there methods so hope you enjoy your hmr and remember safe shooting backstops etc.

[10WM]

Just wonderin lads, I have a CZ 1.7 HMR and my scopes slightly off. I been asking around and I have found out there very flat firing gun, so most these people told me to zero it in at 150 yards or around that, but I wud say that wud b a big shot for me as I only have started shooting. in around the lad I have 150 wud b the longest shot I cud near so safely. So do I zero it I. For 100 yards saying most my shots are 60 - 100 yards? Wuldnt mind bit help here before I set her up yano cheers lads for your time.

 

Some Trajectory figures for the Hornady 17grn M.V. @ 2550fps.You may find of interest.Hope they will help with deciding what's best to set your zero at.

 

I would guess the 130 yard zero would give you an option to shoot straight at out to 150 yards with around 1 inch offset from point off aim. Bare in mind it will be 1" high at 75yards & 100 yards and minus 1" at 150yards.

 

A 10mph cross wind will drift the bullet strike over = 3" at 100 yards & 8" at 150 yards.

 

100Yds.Zero= 25= -.48" 50= +.15" 75= + 0.33" 100=ZERO 125= -.93" 150= -2.57" 175= -5.04" 200= -8.48"

110Yds.Zero= 25= -.42" 50= +.28" 75= + 0.53" 100=+.27" 125= -.60" 150= -2.17" 175= -4.57" 200= -7.95"

120Yds.Zero= 25= -.34" 50= +.43" 75= + 0.76" 100=+.58" 125= -.21" 150= -1.7" 175= -4.03" 200= -7.33"

130Yds.Zero= 25= -.25" 50= +.61" 75= + 1.02" 100=+.92" 125= +.22" 150= -1.19" 175= -3.42" 200= -6.64"

140Yds.Zero= 25= -.16" 50= +.80" 75= + 1.31" 100=+1.3" 125= +.70" 150= -0.62" 175= -2.76" 200= -5.88"

150Yds.Zero= 25= -.06" 50= +1.0" 75= + 1.62" 100=+1.7" 125= +1.2" 150= Zero 175= -2.04" 200= -5.05"

 

Best wishes to all.

[Brad93]

If you don push yourself you will never know your limits; as long as it's a safe shot just lay some targets at some different distances and see how far you can go (y)

[Colster]

Anything over about 40yards will be fine for a hummer. I do mine at 52 (as it's the same distance I do the LR) and that works fine for me.

[remmy1100]

shoot within your capabilities if your not confident you can cleanly dispatch quarry at 150 yards dont .zero it to a range that you feel confident you can put the shot in kill zone time and time again.hmr is a great tool but is affected easily by wind or even a blade of grass making long range shots tricky .Ive put hundreds ov rounds through mine on targets and confidently take rabbits at 170 yards.just get to know your gun and scope every ones setup is different what works for someone dont mean will work for you atb

[Frenchieboy]

"Remmy100" has just given some very sound advice. All I would add to it is the following:

You should always shoot within your capabilities and zero your gun to the range that you normally shoot at.

You say that most of your shots are between 60 and 100 yards so why not start by zeroing at 80 yards! That will give you almost point and aim for the ranges you normally shoot at. When you have done that spend time and ammunition shooting paper at 80 yards to get more confidence in yourself and your gun. Once you are consittently shooting a 1 inch group at 80 yards (A reasonable hummer is well capable of this as long as it is not too windy) set your paper targets out at 100 yards and do the same - The difference in zero should only be a few clicks on elevation. You sould find in time that the same 1 inch groups are possible consistently - Using a bipod in the prone position will help a lot if you don't already! This is where the money spent on ammunition and plenty of practice really does pay dividends.You should find that with time and practice you will be confident shooting at 100 yards and hitting a 1 inch bull consistently.

If you keep your Hummer zeroed at 100 yards you should find that you are them capable of taking shots almost on a point and shoot from about 70 yards to around 130 yards. That will fall well within the ranges you have told us that you regularly shoot at!

The Hummer is easily capable of taking rabbits out to 180 yards , something in the right hands out to 200, but that takes a lot of time, practice and confidence! The confidence will only come with the time and practice!

Untill you are shooting confidently at 100 yards don't bother with any of the advice or threads about regularly taking quarry with a Hummer at 200 yards plus, they are from either very accomplished and confident shooters or they are plain bull ****.

I can take shots quite confidently out to 180 yards but I prefer to stick to about 120 yards for live quarry, if I have to go beyond that that on a regular basis with live quarry (Especially rabbits) I start looking at my field craft techniques as I know that I should be able to get to within 100 yards of most of my quarry.

I was out with a mate zeroing both of our Hummers yesterday and we both zeroed up at 100 yards. We were both able to take quite accurate shots out to 180 yards but we knew what hold over to add as we have both been using Hummers for several years and have confidence in out abilities and rifle set ups. This will come to you with confidence and lots of practice in time but for now settle for what you are comfortable and confident at!

I hope you find this useful!

[dadioles]

Judging distance is the hardest thing as unless you know the distance you cannot estimate the drop.

The great thing about the HMR is its flat trajectory.

If you zero at 100 yards your bullets will land within a less than 1" circle (kill zone) from about 30 yards to about 110 yards so no need for any holdover or holdunder when head shooting rabbits.

Once you get beyond 110 yards things start falling off rapidly with a 2" drop at 140 yards (for me).

 

If you zeroed at 150 yards (completely daft in my opinion) it would only be in the kill zone from about 140 to 160 yards and unless that is where all your rabbits sit you are making shorter range shots very difficult as the bullet will be about 2" high at 90 yards.

 

Every situation is different, there are no rules. Most of my rabbits are shot between 40 and 130 yards. I find head shots beyond that too difficult and body shots waste the meat.

 

As others have said, take an afternoon off and set out some targets and see how your gun / bullet combination performs. Make up your own drop chart and if you have not got one already buy a laser range finder. Pacing out distances is incredibly inaccurate.

[kent]

"Remmy100" has just given some very sound advice. All I would add to it is the following:

You should always shoot within your capabilities and zero your gun to the range that you normally shoot at.

You say that most of your shots are between 60 and 100 yards so why not start by zeroing at 80 yards! That will give you almost point and aim for the ranges you normally shoot at. When you have done that spend time and ammunition shooting paper at 80 yards to get more confidence in yourself and your gun. Once you are consittently shooting a 1 inch group at 80 yards (A reasonable hummer is well capable of this as long as it is not too windy) set your paper targets out at 100 yards and do the same - The difference in zero should only be a few clicks on elevation. You sould find in time that the same 1 inch groups are possible consistently - Using a bipod in the prone position will help a lot if you don't already! This is where the money spent on ammunition and plenty of practice really does pay dividends.You should find that with time and practice you will be confident shooting at 100 yards and hitting a 1 inch bull consistently.

If you keep your Hummer zeroed at 100 yards you should find that you are them capable of taking shots almost on a point and shoot from about 70 yards to around 130 yards. That will fall well within the ranges you have told us that you regularly shoot at!

The Hummer is easily capable of taking rabbits out to 180 yards , something in the right hands out to 200, but that takes a lot of time, practice and confidence! The confidence will only come with the time and practice!

Untill you are shooting confidently at 100 yards don't bother with any of the advice or threads about regularly taking quarry with a Hummer at 200 yards plus, they are from either very accomplished and confident shooters or they are plain bull ****.

I can take shots quite confidently out to 180 yards but I prefer to stick to about 120 yards for live quarry, if I have to go beyond that that on a regular basis with live quarry (Especially rabbits) I start looking at my field craft techniques as I know that I should be able to get to within 100 yards of most of my quarry.

I was out with a mate zeroing both of our Hummers yesterday and we both zeroed up at 100 yards. We were both able to take quite accurate shots out to 180 yards but we knew what hold over to add as we have both been using Hummers for several years and have confidence in out abilities and rifle set ups. This will come to you with confidence and lots of practice in time but for now settle for what you are comfortable and confident at!

I hope you find this useful!

 

i know ere your comming from but your ignooring the trajectory curve in relation to line of sight. What i am getting at is peak trajectory. Zeroing at 80yds will put you over the top of a rabbits head at modest ranges say 40-50yds a 100 yds zero will actually shoot a lower point of impact in relation to aim point at these shorter ranges than an 80 yds zero with a pretty normal 1.5" bore to scope centre. Around 80yds is the peak trajectory over line of sight for a 100 yds sigted gun with std scope etc, you need to push zero out to get a less pronounced curve it has little to do with choosing the ranges you most often shoot at more the optimum point to get a flat shooting gun

[ellebarto]

If you zero at 50 then everything from 20 to 100 is only a 1/4" adjustment away. Its the best place to start with the HMR! Learn there first. I'm betting you find most of your bunnies in that distance anyway and you wont ever change it.

[kent]

If you zero at 50 then everything from 20 to 100 is only a 1/4" adjustment away. Its the best place to start with the HMR! Learn there first. I'm betting you find most of your bunnies in that distance anyway and you wont ever change it.

err, do you mean 1/4 moa or 1/4" tecnically i cannot see how either is correct 1/2" maybee but 1/4" how? can you elabourate? much depends on scope to bore set up but i just cant get a 50 yds zero shooting high or low by no more than a 1/4" a 50yds zero would normally put you higher at 100 than this and also lower at 20. a higher mounted scope can reduce error at longer range but will shoot a more pronounced difference at short range. Am i missing something here? these are just top of my head figures but i cannot see how

[wymberley]

If you zero at 50 then everything from 20 to 100 is only a 1/4" adjustment away. Its the best place to start with the HMR! Learn there first. I'm betting you find most of your bunnies in that distance anyway and you wont ever change it.

I'll go along with a 1.5" sight height but with marginally different figures of (coincidentally) 27 and 107yds for said 1/4"

[ellebarto]

I'll go along with a 1.5" sight height but with marginally different figures of (coincidentally) 27 and 107yds for said 1/4"

 

Yeah I wasn't being massively precise but thanks Wymberley. In fact I think it was you who got me into zeroing like that with the HMR precisely because of those figures!

 

It remains my fav bunny gun because all I have to do is consider my backstop and after that its a sure kill (if only I could quieten it down)

 

In fact zeroing at 50 and shooting up to 100 I can only recall missing 4 bunnies in 2 years of shooting it! Its become such a rarity I start to look at some rifle defect before I assume I actually missed!

[dadioles]

I think the difference here is that some of us are saying zero at 100 yards and others at 50 yards but in a way we are all singing from the same hymn sheet. Give or take a bit there are two effective zeros as the trajectory passes line of sight twice. So (+- a few yards) a gun zeroed at 50 is also zeroed at 100 yards.

 

Personally I would still rather physically zero it at 100 yards as it will show up errors much more clearly.

[Gimlet]

Reading this thread has got me thinking.

Does any one accurately measure their zeroing distance?

In theory I zero my HMR at 100 yds except that I'm measuring in paces. Pacing out a long deer I shot recently (with .308 not HMR I might add) my stalking mate said my strides were too long. I'm 5"11', but when measured my paces were averaged about 1200mm long. What I thought was a 180 yard kill was actually 210 metres. If I'd known at the time I may not have taken the shot.

I wonder how many people, including me, are zeroing at longer ranges than they realise. This matters with an HMR because as others have pointed out above, if you zero much beyond 100 yds you're at the edge of the flat zone in the round's trajectory and you start encountering holdover errors.

On my ground, my kills are taken at an average range of about 80/90 paces. But with my strides this could often be 110 metres. In which case I'd be better off zeroing at 70 paces.

I think I'm going to buy a range finder to make sure I am zeroing at 100 yds as this is clearly the optimum distance for the shots I'm taking on my ground.

[John_R]

Reading this thread has got me thinking.

Does any one accurately measure their zeroing distance?

 

 

I do, either by virtue of spending time on a range, or with a rangefinder if on my own ground.

[ellebarto]

I used a range finder when first setting my zero but pace it whenever checking.

[cooter]

Reading this thread has got me thinking.

Does any one accurately measure their zeroing distance?

 

Yes I do.

 

I always use my LRF, and zero at exactly 100yds, that way I know that the results from my ballistics program will be pretty much on the money.

 

 

For the OP, follow this link for all things HMR.

 

http://www.varmintal.com/17hmr.htm

[10WM]

err, do you mean 1/4 moa or 1/4" tecnically i cannot see how either is correct 1/2" maybee but 1/4" how? can you elabourate? much depends on scope to bore set up but i just cant get a 50 yds zero shooting high or low by no more than a 1/4" a 50yds zero would normally put you higher at 100 than this and also lower at 20. a higher mounted scope can reduce error at longer range but will shoot a more pronounced difference at short range. Am i missing something here? these are just top of my head figures but i cannot see how

 

50yard zero 1.5 scope height Hornady .17 grn factory rounds doing 2550fps. As below.

 

25yds= -5.5"(sorry a tad more than your .25") 50yds=Zero 75yds=.1" 100yds= -.3" 125yds= -1.3" 150yds=-3.0" 175yds= -5.5" 200yds= -9.0"

 

Wind drift is also an important factor as a simple 10mph cross wind will drift the impact point by 2" at 75yds

3" at 100yds and 8" at 150yards.

 

Hope this helps. please also look at the trajectory charts for Zeros from 100yds up to 150 yards in thread No 3.

 

You can easily choose what you individual shooting style/habits are and set up the best point blank zero to suit.

 

Best wishes all.

[wymberley]

50yard zero 1.5 scope height Hornady .17 grn factory rounds doing 2550fps. As below.

 

25yds= -5.5"(sorry a tad more than your .25") 50yds=Zero 75yds=.1" 100yds= -.3" 125yds= -1.3" 150yds=-3.0" 175yds= -5.5" 200yds= -9.0"

 

Wind drift is also an important factor as a simple 10mph cross wind will drift the impact point by 2" at 75yds

3" at 100yds and 8" at 150yards.

 

Hope this helps. please also look at the trajectory charts for Zeros from 100yds up to 150 yards in thread No 3.

 

You can easily choose what you individual shooting style/habits are and set up the best point blank zero to suit.

 

Best wishes all.

You're absolutely right. My apologies to all. I read 1/4 as 1/2". The distances are, of course,36 to 99yds.

Easy done is my excuse. Are you sure about the -5.5" at 25 yds being a tad more. It seems a big tad. Could -.55 be better?

[kent]

50yard zero 1.5 scope height Hornady .17 grn factory rounds doing 2550fps. As below.

 

25yds= -5.5"(sorry a tad more than your .25") 50yds=Zero 75yds=.1" 100yds= -.3" 125yds= -1.3" 150yds=-3.0" 175yds= -5.5" 200yds= -9.0"

 

Wind drift is also an important factor as a simple 10mph cross wind will drift the impact point by 2" at 75yds

3" at 100yds and 8" at 150yards.

 

Hope this helps. please also look at the trajectory charts for Zeros from 100yds up to 150 yards in thread No 3.

 

You can easily choose what you individual shooting style/habits are and set up the best point blank zero to suit.

 

Best wishes all.

 

Thank you, just i cannot follow what your actually saying. Getting a 1/4" POI from POA as stated is impossible though they are a flat shooting gun. I should chrono that HMR though mine only did 2440fps. its only the windage and terminals that lets the calibre down at 150 plus v-max start to penetrate without expanding at shorter ranges sub 40 they can be devastatingly explosive or just fine bit like Forest gumps box of chocolaites " you never know what your gonna get"

 

Here is my real life Dope data in inches

 

0 yrds -1.5" wind 0

20yds -0.6" wind 0.1"

40yds 0 wind 0.5"

60yds +0.4" wind 1.2"

80 yds +0.4" wind 2.1"

100yds 0 wind 3.5"

120yds -0.8" wind 5.3"

140yds -2.1" wind 7.4"

160yds - 3.9" wind 9.9"

180yds -6.4" wind 12.9"

200yds -9.6" wind 16.4"

 

Wind is based on full value 10 mph

[10WM]

You're absolutely right. My apologies to all. I read 1/4 as 1/2". The distances are, of course,36 to 99yds.

Easy done is my excuse. Are you sure about the -5.5" at 25 yds being a tad more. It seems a big tad. Could -.55 be better?

 

Yes of course you have spotted my mistake thanks.