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Modified LED lamping torches.


Dave-G
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Nope, I don't have a need for a more powerful beam. Two hundred plus shooting and three hundred yards for eyeshine with a red led kinda does me. I bought a x searcher for ir, that's pretty good, if you need it, but with a red led in it is too bright to be used on close in quarry.

 

I also think the 501s are a near perfect size for the hand and pocket.

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I think there is a time and place for bigger torches, particularly if fox is on your quarry list or you are using centrefire calibers. However that is maybe best covered on another forum that you might see mentioned somewhere very soon so it doesn't de-rail this P60/drop-in torch thread. One of the unique merits of the P60 is that it so incredibly easy and quick to change modules - even in total darkness without needing any tools.

 

I have sent out modules but realised I have not covered how to fit them so here is a quickie on that:

 

Edited by Dave-G
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Guys, my PM box has got quite busy, I will answer PM's but I'm really busy on other things too at the moment. I got a real shock today after Mrs.G got back from the post office. Despite trying some clever way to keep the copper module flatter in the jiffy bag it still wont go through the little RM letter box they use to assess handling size/cost for 1st class recorded. I regret to say the cost has to go up by £2 for the copper heat-sink module to £37.

 

In case anyone who skip-read this thread thinks it's becoming a sales thread, please go back and look at the first and other early posts:

It has been - and always will be a thread about available upgrades and modifications for the very popular Ultrafire 510B drop-in module torch - and where to buy upgrade bits for it which are being sold from various places around the world.

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I am kind of getting hooked on this but find 22 pages of post a bit difficult.

 

Is there an idiots guide (yes, I am an idiot) with a simple menu ... or can someone who knows this area well put one together?

 

Like:

 

Buy

1 Ultra fire 501B from XXXXXXXX usually costs £x

1 ..........

 

then watch this video (insert link)

Edited by malkiserow
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It'd take a lot longer to re-type most of it than for you to wade through it and learn mate.

 

The thread develops into a learning curve for all of us and is well worth ploughing through it, sorry but I'm not going just pick out the raw instructions because that will only only prompt you to ask questions that have already been answered and stretch the thread even further. You'll get the idea in the first few pages - but being as some of the links in my original post are dead here are some updated ones. I'd like to be able to trim some of the tedious posts out of the thread - but that probably would not get admin approval.

 

The very famous 501b red LED torch and pressure switch that will do for ratting ranges as standard:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251248903196

 

 

For moderate rimfire range, the DX lens:

http://dx.com/p/glass-optics-for-flashlights-28mm-5297

 

The torch is small and lightweight enough to permanently live on the rifle - and the best place to avoid scope reflections is underneath the barrel, I use this mount on three of my rifles:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scope-Flashlight-Laser-Torch-Surefire-Barrel-Mount-25mmX20mm-mount-/370831965270

 

A selection of rechargeable 18650 batteries and charger, Ultrafire have got a reputation of overstating their capacities but I personally have used loads without issue - and they are cheap enough to carry a spare in my pocket.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/18650-rechargeable-battery-charger#ht_1325wt_1270&clk_rvr_id=499576691074&afsrc=1

 

 

A common misunderstanding that keeps popping up in PM's is it's thought the Ahorton lens is simply swapped into the torch and boom-boom it'll be great. It MUST be matched with a shorter blacked out "reflector" that is no longer reflecting light - it is simply a means of spacing the lens at the correct focal length from the LED to work better than others. It is far superior to any other lens for this torch. More of the emitted light cone from the LED enters the lens if it is set at the correct focal length - look back in the thread for the explanation. However, if you only shoot at moderate rimfire ranges you only need to blacken your standard reflector and fit the DX lens as linked to above so save your money.

 

 

 

If you want outer rimfire or low range centre fire red lamping performance from it, or rimfire range Infra Red performance read on.

 

 

To be open and honest I am slightly dyslexic and know I'm not very good at explaining the technicalities of all this. I know what I'm doing but can't put it into words very well and get frustrated about answering questions that have already been answered. I also know some of you want to do the upgrades but won't read the thread through to help yourselves - nicely meant I promise. Some of you also won't be DIY mided either.

 

I'm not asking anyone to buy anything off me but I know there are guys who want to buy the bits and upgrade - or buy a ready built torch from somewhere so I have taken the plunge and bought a lathe to make some of the bits available in England. The Ahorton lenses - and ready made all-in-one copper LED modules with an integral focal spacer are now available from me if you are in the UK, and as soon as I get the long awaited threading tap I shall make available copper spacers to do a similar but more heat conductive job as the black Ahorton focal spacer to fit the standard brass parts of your standard modules.

Edited by Dave-G
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Many thanks Dave G .... that is very clear and helpful

 

I am keen on outer rimfire ranges (I use a 17hmr as well as .22lr) I've not gone night vision yet because I am happy with visible red.

 

I am going to wade through to find your parts costs.

Edited by malkiserow
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Many thanks Dave G .... that is very clear and helpful

 

I am keen on outer rimfire ranges (I use a 17hmr as well as .22lr) I've not gone night vision yet because I am happy with visible red.

 

I am going to wade through to find your parts costs.

 

Do you have a 501B already? if so , what colour LED module does it have?

 

The costs of the parts I can currently help you to use for HMR ranges are:

 

Ahorton lens, £13,

or one with chips on the retaining edges only - so no optical flaw - £8

One piece heat-sink copper module with red LED is £37.

 

Both prices are posted, you pay the bank charges please.

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Well my drop in and lens arrived. MY GOD ita good its totally transformed my torch. My deben is about to go on the bay as def have no use for it. The best buy I made since my rifles!!!

 

So bye bye poxy leads and and battery packs. Dave your a blooming star thank you so much.

 

If anyone is thinking of buying them from dave DO IT. You wont regret it.

 

 

Ill have one of the damaged lens Dave, handy as a spare especially at that price.

 

Same paypal details?

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Well my drop in and lens arrived. MY GOD ita good its totally transformed my torch. My deben is about to go on the bay as def have no use for it. The best buy I made since my rifles!!!

 

So bye bye poxy leads and and battery packs. Dave your a blooming star thank you so much.

 

If anyone is thinking of buying them from dave DO IT. You wont regret it.

 

 

Ill have one of the damaged lens Dave, handy as a spare especially at that price.

 

Same paypal details?

 

That's a glowing testimony thanks Bazza. Yep, same paypal cheers.

 

As said, there is no need for lugging around battery packs and power supply leads to/on rifles any more.

Whilst these are good for outer rimfire ranges there are bigger brighter ones available for centrefire ranges - but they would be too bright for use by rimfire users... horses for courses really.

 

There are remote tail pressure switches available on the bay for them too.

Edited by Dave-G
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That's a glowing testimony thanks Bazza. Yep, same paypal cheers.

 

As said, there is no need for lugging around battery packs and power supply leads to/on rifles any more.

Whilst these are good for outer rimfire ranges there are bigger brighter ones available for centrefire ranges - but they would be too bright for use by rimfire users... horses for courses really.

 

There are remote tail pressure switches available on the bay for them too.

 

 

Money sent for spare lens sir. Same postal address as before please.

 

Bazza.

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Hello Dave,

 

after much kerfuffle I have finally modified a 501b properly without too much hassle!

After getting the ahorton lens' from you I looked at the leds in the torchs I have and they are all XM-L types except for one which has a tiny LED compared to the XM-L. The torch is marked as an ultrafire WF-501B

As the ther torches are already set up to take the ahorton lens without any modification I decided to butcher the 501 and place the 501 led into one of the other housings.

I will be soldering the 501 led in place later and afixing it in the zoom torch housing on some heat sink paste.

 

Just holding the 501led in place and zooming to the correct focal length gives a much much brighter beam than the xm-l with the ahorton lens

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I finally got my first trial focal spacers made out of ally. They are slightly thicker walled than the Ahorton ones to soak up a bit more heat and are slightly wider on the swaged neck to capture a smidgin more of the light cone.

 

These allow you to utilise your existing brass pill and are the correct focal length for the Ahorton lens. There is still some final repetitive job tooling up to be done.

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/Dave-G/Firsttrialfocalspacers_zps63eaab4e.jpg

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dave how much will you be selling the ally ones for mate ???

 

I use alloy for practice/development because it's a lot cheaper and easier to machine. Copper will soak up and transfer more heat.

 

The copper focal spacers will be £20, they basically make a more affordable option which improves on standard length spacers/DX lenses screwed to the owners existing functional brass pill - as opposed to the ultimate heat transferring all in one piece including electrics module.

 

Basically it's a £17 cheaper option because a lot of people won't want to spend £37 on the best one.

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£37 on a fully fitted out droppin (copper) is an excellent buy mate, I,m out later testing the torches by the way so will put the footage up when I get back dave, by the way have to say how impressed I am with the copper droppin, it is excellent quality and will certainly disperse the heat alright,

 

cheers Bob

 

ps, if you can do me a couple of the ally ones with no electrics I,d be made up, just for a project I,m thinking of building to spot and record some foxes in the back garden, but I,ll be using a rather large heat sink to cool the led,s down,,it is for outdoor use

 

I will need 5 or 6 dave pm me cost mate if ya can do it for me bud

 

thanks again Bob

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I've took a liking to aluminium for the spacers, and I'm all too aware some like a cheaper upgrade than the copper modules. So aluminium they will stay as it's a whole lot easier to machine and buy than copper. I'm hoping the photo clears up any confusion about what you might need to upgrade.

 

Here they are then in the front row: Shorter focal spacers that replace your standard length reflector - one fitted to the brass pill you are all familiar with.

 

Centre row are the Ahorton lens and spacer kits - one on a brass pill.

 

At the rear are the all-in one copper heat-sink modules.

 

To clear up any uncertainty: The Ahorton lens offers a much better beam throw than any other P60 lens for these torches - but it MUST be used with one of the options in the photo, It will not work with a standard length reflector which has too long a focal length. You might be able to make your own smaller reflector/spacer though.

 

As the short spacers are made of aluminium I can do them at £13 which is the same price as the Ahorton lens. If you have them both together you get an improved 501b torch performance for £25 but there will be no volume price breaks on that.

 

EDIT: I don't have anodising kit so the areas that would otherwise reflect light are painted matt black. During handling it may flake off and need touching up - this is great for that purpose, and many other little touch up jobs you might need doing. Once fitted there should be no reason for it to flake off:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380647286541

 

 

 

NewP60dropinmodules_zpsfde3f34c.jpg

Edited by Dave-G
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Will one of these fit my sure fire type torch and turn it into a useable light for lamping.

HA ha, that's like asking what the trajectory of a bullet is - but not stating which bullet. :)

 

 

 

Which Surefire? It fits several of them, but is it metal? Does it look similar to the Ultrafire Wf-501B? Google it please.

 

Do you have the means to measure the diameter of the existing lens and reflector body? Does it currently have a flat glass lens in it?

 

Does the existing module look like this? http://dx.com/p/cree-r2-drop-in-1-mode-led-module-3-7v-18v-26-5mm-x-29mm-11836

 

Could you put up a link to it for me to Google and hopefully find out?

 

EDIT: If it looks like it will fit - you can try a lens and spacer, I will refund you if it doesn't if returned within 7 days. .

Edited by Dave-G
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If it's for red light lamping to sensible HMR ranges I can sort you out a red LED pill, spacer and Ahorton lens (Cheaper option with chips round the fixing edge but perfect optics) for £30 posted.

 

Try and return option still applies: Would appreciate if you would post back in here how you get on with it please.

Edited by Dave-G
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