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.410 Reloading


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Hi all, I want a .410 fibre wad reload, nice and quiet like Eley fourlong but say 14+ grams of 7 shot in a 65mm case for pigeon, what should I be looking at? I`m thinking of buying a MEC 500 jnr for starters, after that I`m lost, I`m hoping some of you experienced reloaders can point me in the right direction. I do use Eley extra long (expensive), but they are a bit noisy for a lot of places I shoot. Must be fibre wad. (Mossberg 500 Hushpower fac)

 

thanks atb S

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Can you get the kit to roll crimp them? I know a friend has an old Victorian roll crimp but its part of a collection and won't let me use it.

 

I plan on reloading brass cases firer formed from 303 and what other seem to do is seal them with a silicone or such like but not sure if this will affect them generally?

 

Some help from someone experienced in this sort of reloading would be fantastic

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i reload 1/2 oz 410 on a mec 600 jnr , i use 70 mm cheddite cases ( also have a few winchester AA case too ) but i reload using plastic wads with alliant 2400 powder .

 

clayandgame would be your best bet for fibre loads , when ian charlton owned clay and game reloaders as it was back then he had quite a few loads using fibre wads that he used to publish in his catalouge .

 

to reload 2 1/2 inch cases on the mec 600 jnr you will have to use a riser kit ( can be bought from cgr ) , because the 600 jnr only loads 2 3/4 and 3 inch cases

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Have loaded in the past the full brass cases, but resizing thems another thing, ? plus the ones i used had the Berdan primer in and to remove these after fireing i used a wood dowel, fill with water(the case) and tapped dowel with hammer to push primer out, it worked but time consuming.

 

Have plenty of Winchesters 2.5"and 3", with components,(you didn/t get them all Graham :no: ) so not struggling on that issue.

 

Winchester 296, SP3, 2400, 14.5 or there abouts with a claybuster wad and 14gram is nice,

I load 410 on a P/W 375,( along with the other guages if /when required, but 28guage is the guage i use for game and pigeons, shoot all day without feeling kn???erd, plus cheap to load.

 

Reloading isnt just about saving money??? its nice to see you target blow with something you have put to gether, plus you can taylor the cartridge to fit the targets you know you will be shooting, close in bolting rabbit loads some spinners/dispersers wads, skeet patern from full choke is an additive at time(works on live as well).

 

Enjoy reloading lead when you cannot buy any lead cartridges,you cannot load steel in anything less than 20 guage that i know of, and BISMUTH at £42 a KILO is a NO NO.John

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Roll turnover tools are available fron Siarm and Clay Game Reloaders .look at my old posts for risers and case trimmers

 

standard wads are no good for brass cases as they are too big the wads are a sloppy fit give up with the Idea and use plastic a meck will not reload brass cases

 

Deershooter

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I reload .410 by hand. I bought a complete handloading kit from Lanes reloading and after loading about 3 shells with it ordered a roll turnover tool from Clay and Game. I still use all the punches etc from the Lanes kit but never got the hang of the RTO bit. The one I got from Clay and Game goes in a drill and makes an absolutely first class job. Not familiar with the MEC on whether it does star crimp or RTO. As for powder and other bits. I bought a MEC supersizer from Siarm along with primers, shell cases, cork/fibre wads, overshot cards and hard plated shot. The powder I got was Vectan SP3 from my local gun shop (he only stocks rifle reloading kit). Clay and Game sell a data sheet listing a few recipes for cork wads and SP3 powder which would be a good place to start (most were RTO which may be an issue if the MEC does a star crimp). I have loaded the 14g version but can't really say whether it is good or bad. It seemed to go OK but I have not sent it for proof and velocity testing to verify the data. The 17g version they listed was quite a lot slower than they listed when I took a batch to the Proof House. Better that way than the other though.

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I reload .410 by hand. I bought a complete handloading kit from Lanes reloading and after loading about 3 shells with it ordered a roll turnover tool from Clay and Game. I still use all the punches etc from the Lanes kit but never got the hang of the RTO bit. The one I got from Clay and Game goes in a drill and makes an absolutely first class job. Not familiar with the MEC on whether it does star crimp or RTO. As for powder and other bits. I bought a MEC supersizer from Siarm along with primers, shell cases, cork/fibre wads, overshot cards and hard plated shot. The powder I got was Vectan SP3 from my local gun shop (he only stocks rifle reloading kit). Clay and Game sell a data sheet listing a few recipes for cork wads and SP3 powder which would be a good place to start (most were RTO which may be an issue if the MEC does a star crimp). I have loaded the 14g version but can't really say whether it is good or bad. It seemed to go OK but I have not sent it for proof and velocity testing to verify the data. The 17g version they listed was quite a lot slower than they listed when I took a batch to the Proof House. Better that way than the other though.

 

You are definitely on your way! Well done!

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Guest cookoff013

the .410 is a cracking little round, had my first good session with one yesterday. i`ve read alot about the .410 and what is the best way to get awsome cartridges.

 

pressure is the key to good ballistics whether it is .410 or 4 bore.

sp3 seems to be the "to go to" powder for this, also if you are buying american H110 or w296 are reputed to be the same powder re-badged. they also have exellent data to support this.

 

i`ll state that with all loads, regardless how they are manufactured are only as good as the data says. my point being no-one is ever going to guess or care how the loads are manufactured. whether it be PW,MEC, hand tools, or factory. good cartridges are a perfect ballance of exellent components in the right quantities.

but to be honest thats true with all cartridges.

 

ps, pressure is the key.

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