Have i bought the wrong die set??

[jam1e]

Hi folks,

I'm just getting into reloading my .204 rounds.

I've bought a "Lee" starter kit. The 50th anniversary one.

I've been waiting for a set of Lee dies to come into stock at one of my local rfd's. I'm aware the Lee die kit comes with 3 dies. However, i bought a Hornady Die set today from a dealer relatively near to me. However, when i got home i noticed the Hornady die set only has 2 dies. So i'm now thinking i've made a bad decision and will need to buy the third die. Is this right??

I also want to say that i had great customer service at the store, (UK Custom Shop) in Droitwich.

I just presumed there would be 3 dies, so didn't ask or look how many were in the box.

Anyone out there that could advise me???

Jamie

[cleaner4hire]

you dont need 3 dies, you can either neck size or full length depending on which you have bought. Eventually you may want to buy the missing die, especially if its the full length die as you may need to knock back the shoulders a bit - I do but rarely use the full length sizer. So I wouldnt worry too much bud.

[al4x]

Sounds like you have a full length sizing die and a seating die, it will be the neck sizing one you haven't got which though nice you can cope without

[jam1e]

Apologies for the lack of knowledge on the terms used. I presume the neck sizing die does what it says on the tin?

I'm puzzled as to why i'd need a neck sizer if the brass is already the right shape

The dies are full length, and the dies are the exact ones seen on the attached link

http://www.midwayusa...t-223-remington

 

Would i be right in thinking the one die de-primes and "case sizes"

And the other die just seats the bullet?

Would i need a die to slightly flair the neck to start the bullet seating?

Apologies i'm for all the questions folks. I have read lots about reloading and watched lots of youtube videos. I'm just very cautious for the obvious dangers involved....

Edited October 24, 2012 by jam1e

[al4x]

what you need is someone to show you otherwise its going to lead to thousands of new threads and a hotch potch of ideas coming through. Either that or get a reloading manual its not really the thing to do when you haven't got the foggiest.

[jam1e]

what you need is someone to show you otherwise its going to lead to thousands of new threads and a hotch potch of ideas coming through. Either that or get a reloading manual its not really the thing to do when you haven't got the foggiest.

 

Thanks for the reply Alex.

I've got the "Modern reloading (2nd Edition) by Richard Lee. Would that be a manual and data book?

Secondly please can you tell me the difference between decapping and depriming?

Sorry to be a pain

[Blunderbust]

jam1e,

 

I too am just getting started with the reloading and I have found that reading a manual will get you on the right track. I got a hold of "The ABCs of Reloading book" from amazon, I think it was arround £15 and have to say it has helped me understand which kit I need to buy. I then bought a 2 DVD set called Reloading part 1 & 2 with Tony Price, it is a bit repetative and the back ground conversations are a bit naff but the content with reference to reloading is great. Indeed if you PM me your address I will stick the DVD's in the post to you, as I think I know the whole thing off buy heart. I would appreciate it if you could pass it on to someone else on the forum who is in need of some guidance once you have watched it a few times.

[jam1e]

jam1e,

 

I too am just getting started with the reloading and I have found that reading a manual will get you on the right track. I got a hold of "The ABCs of Reloading book" from amazon, I think it was arround £15 and have to say it has helped me understand which kit I need to buy. I then bought a 2 DVD set called Reloading part 1 & 2 with Tony Price, it is a bit repetative and the back ground conversations are a bit naff but the content with reference to reloading is great. Indeed if you PM me your address I will stick the DVD's in the post to you, as I think I know the whole thing off buy heart. I would appreciate it if you could pass it on to someone else on the forum who is in need of some guidance once you have watched it a few times.

That is very good of you. Thank-you!

I'll pm you my details.

[Harnser]

I think you may be short of the crimping die by not buying the lee set . To crimp or not to crimp is the big question ?.

 

Harnser .

[JonathanL]

Centre-fire, bottle-necked rifle dies usually (well, traditionally) only have two dies - a full length sizer & decapping die and a bullet seating die.

 

The dies do basically what they say they do. The first one pushes out the old primer and resizes the brass along its entire length. This needs to be done because the brass expands under pressure to seal the chamber so that the propelland gasses only go down the barrel and not back through the action. It end up being slightly larger than it was so needs to be sized back to its original dimensions. with non-carbide dies (ie; all dies for bottle-necked cases) MUST have sizing lube applied which must then be removed afterwards!

 

The second die seats the bullet to the correct depth. Many bullet seating dies will have a crimp feature on them as well.

 

The third die in the Lee set will most probably have been what Lee call a Factory Crimp die. This apples a different type of crimp. It is not essential but some people get good results with them. Some people don't use any crimp at all.

 

J.

[Redgum]

As most have said it usually will be the full length sizer and bullet seater, make sure you use case lube when resizing, apply a small amount with your finger or pad. Too much and you will dink the shoulder, no enough and the case will get stuck in the die( easy enough to remedy). As your on here you must be on the net, search youtube reloading info, very helpful.

[jam1e]

Thanks for the replies folks.

I've got some case lube in with the Lee kit and will use sparingly.

I've done what i should of in the first place, and read the paperwork that came with the dies and the reloading kit, and it's slowly sinking in....

As you say the one is a deprimer and full case sizer. And the other is a bullet seater. The die for seating states that if i adjust the depth of the seater it will crimp if i want it to. The third was apparently for flairing the end of the case for easier bullet seating and doubled up as a powder loader.

Could you folks answer a couple of questions for me?

Will i need something to flair the brass case as i don't have a die to do this? I have seen a few people on youtube use a cross head screwdriver to gently do this. Is that ok??

Secondly, does the case stretch ever time it's fired, and as such will need trimming on every reload? Or is there a maximum amount you can go to before you have to trim?

I'd appreciate your opinions folks

[pigeon pete]

Thanks for the replies folks.

I've got some case lube in with the Lee kit and will use sparingly.

I've done what i should of in the first place, and read the paperwork that came with the dies and the reloading kit, and it's slowly sinking in....

As you say the one is a deprimer and full case sizer. And the other is a bullet seater. The die for seating states that if i adjust the depth of the seater it will crimp if i want it to. The third was apparently for flairing the end of the case for easier bullet seating and doubled up as a powder loader.

Could you folks answer a couple of questions for me?

Will i need something to flair the brass case as i don't have a die to do this? I have seen a few people on youtube use a cross head screwdriver to gently do this. Is that ok??

Secondly, does the case stretch ever time it's fired, and as such will need trimming on every reload? Or is there a maximum amount you can go to before you have to trim?

I'd appreciate your opinions folks

you dont flare the case

sometimes the case wont need trimming but i do to take any variables out ,some do it every 10 or so rounds

[Redgum]

you dont flare the case

sometimes the case wont need trimming but i do to take any variables out ,some do it every 10 or so rounds

Third or fourth dies in deluxe sets will be neck resizing or for a factory crimp but don't worry about this to start with, you have enough kit minus one item to get going.Case neck flaring is more common on pistol cases. With out being rude the above advice is dangerous, each time the case is reformed in the full sizing die it will stretch and get longer, you will need a case length guide and trimmer for your calibre, look on Henry Kranks website, this is an inexpensive piece of kit, the cutter and case length guide are normally sold seperatly. Each time the case is resized it is best run through trimmer or at least check with digi verniers, it woud be very unwise to not at least check length. Max case length will be in your reloading manual at begining of the calibre info. It does all sound a bit complicated to start with but it really isnt, once your up and running it soon becomes a doddle but Read your manual as it should all be explained. Better safe than sorry.

 

Neck sizing will extend case life and in some cases improve accuracy but you can only start neck sizing once a round has been fired in your rifle and has become 'fireformed', that is, apart from a little spring back will fit your chamber exactly. A case can be neck sized for a while until it starts to become tighter in the chamber( it will start to be harder to chamber) then it will need a full resize but its always best to check the case length. To long a case will pinch in the end of the chamber causing excessive and dangerous pressure increase.

Edited October 24, 2012 by Redgum

[jamie g]

i wold do away with case lube and get the redding sizing wax instead it lasts ages and isnt messy like the lube.

as for the neck sizer well the cases are the right shape. you still need to neck size after firing the round in your rifle otherwise if you dont when you come to seat a bullet it will drop into the case !

 

as the other guys have said get someone to help you. learning and looking at posts can be hard when reloading. if someone shows you the ropes then it suddenly seams so easy once you have watched. they will help you set the dies up etc.

[12borejimbo]

What Jamie G and Alex said! You need someone to show you what to do! I found it very easy to learn and watch someone reload for 3 hours and then be at the end of the phone if needed!

[jam1e]

i wold do away with case lube and get the redding sizing wax instead it lasts ages and isnt messy like the lube.

as for the neck sizer well the cases are the right shape. you still need to neck size after firing the round in your rifle otherwise if you dont when you come to seat a bullet it will drop into the case !

 

as the other guys have said get someone to help you. learning and looking at posts can be hard when reloading. if someone shows you the ropes then it suddenly seams so easy once you have watched. they will help you set the dies up etc.

 

Hi Jamie,

I'm puzzled now as i thought the 2 dies were fine

So am i right in thinking that i can not get away with using a full length resizing and decapping die and bullet seating die to make my reloads as the bullet will still just drop inside the brass case?

If so,will i now need a neck sizing die to stop the bullet falling inside the case???

[chrisv]

Full length dies resize the neck at the same time, so no, you don't need a neck sizing die. I use them though because I prefer to work the brass as little as possible, it can last longer that way (depending on a lot of other factors as well!)

[jam1e]

Full length dies resize the neck at the same time, so no, you don't need a neck sizing die. I use them though because I prefer to work the brass as little as possible, it can last longer that way (depending on a lot of other factors as well!)

 

Thanks for that Chris.

If the brass is looked after how many charges are you likely to get out of one? Just a general idea?

Also, i was after .32 grain bullets for my .204, and at the time the only ones at the rfd were Sierra Blitzking. Would i be right in thinking thats quite a good make?

Cheers

Jamie

[Redgum]

Thanks for that Chris.

If the brass is looked after how many charges are you likely to get out of one? Just a general idea?

Also, i was after .32 grain bullets for my .204, and at the time the only ones at the rfd were Sierra Blitzking. Would i be right in thinking thats quite a good make?

Cheers

Jamie

I don't reload 204 but I'm getting well past ten reloads per case for my 243, this is probably because I mainly neck size and anneal my brass after 5 reloads before I fully resize again. I use sierra heads in both 243 and 308 in several weights and find them an excellent bullet.

[pigeon pete]

Third or fourth dies in deluxe sets will be neck resizing or for a factory crimp but don't worry about this to start with, you have enough kit minus one item to get going.Case neck flaring is more common on pistol cases. With out being rude the above advice is dangerous, each time the case is reformed in the full sizing die it will stretch and get longer, you will need a case length guide and trimmer for your calibre, look on Henry Kranks website, this is an inexpensive piece of kit, the cutter and case length guide are normally sold seperatly. Each time the case is resized it is best run through trimmer or at least check with digi verniers, it woud be very unwise to not at least check length. Max case length will be in your reloading manual at begining of the calibre info. It does all sound a bit complicated to start with but it really isnt, once your up and running it soon becomes a doddle but Read your manual as it should all be explained. Better safe than sorry.

 

Neck sizing will extend case life and in some cases improve accuracy but you can only start neck sizing once a round has been fired in your rifle and has become 'fireformed', that is, apart from a little spring back will fit your chamber exactly. A case can be neck sized for a while until it starts to become tighter in the chamber( it will start to be harder to chamber) then it will need a full resize but its always best to check the case length. To long a case will pinch in the end of the chamber causing excessive and dangerous pressure increase.

tell me how this can be dangerous ,i full length size them ,trim them then full length mag size them as i am using a mag fed rifle ,and been using the same cases for ages ,never had to aneil them ,and never used a neck sizing die ,been reloading for 8 years and my m8 has been loading for 20 years and had his own bullet making company and is a RFD ??????

[Beretta28g]

You need to check all your lengths very accurately, dont worry about not having a neck sizer as you can do without.

 

The RCBS Case Lube Pad is brilliant for evenly applying a thin layer of lube on the cases (and also you get a brush to do inside the neck)

[vmax55]

i had the lee deluxe 3 die set and found for some reason or other that after id neck sized my .243's the head still fell through the neck. dont know why. so just use the full length die now

[JonathanL]

i had the lee deluxe 3 die set and found for some reason or other that after id neck sized my .243's the head bullet still fell through the neck. dont know why. so just use the full length die now

 

It's probably because the expander button is too large. Sizing dies actually size the neck down more than is required and then expand it back up again with the expander button. I have actually recently acquired a Lee set in 8x57mm which has this problem so I'm going to have the button turned down slightly.

 

J.

[vmax55]

ca this be reduced then or shall i get a new die