welshwarrior Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 Don't really want to paint it as i like the laminate colours. I've now bought a Tru oil kit, which includes the wood die, the oil and conditioner. I've done some test attempts on some spare wood. I like the finish of the oil and conditioner. However, even with the wood dye combined with the aid of water for lightening the shade, i can't get a shade i like. Too red for me. I may use some light oak oil based wood dye i have. It keeps the "tigerwood" laminate finish i wanted, but takes it down a shade with no hint of red. The dye also penetrates well, but dries quick. I'll still give it 24 hours drying time just to be sure though. Progress is slow mind. I've taken off around 3" from the forend and taken 1/3" off the bottom of the forend. House decorating is getting in the way..... I'm also distracted by trying to improve my pigeon shooting skills. Or rather lack of skills!! I'd forgotten how bad i was with a shotgun! I think some lessons are needed!! You don't want to use an oil based dye before you oil a stock use a water based dye then oil it will work better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonicdmb Posted April 7, 2013 Report Share Posted April 7, 2013 google using armorall as in the car cleaning stuff it dries the tru oil quicker if I remember it right you spray with armorall then apply tru oil and repeat. If you're going with bedding do that first then you can always sand off anything you miss on clean up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Cheers for the advice fellas. Welshwarrior, whats the problem with oil dye then tru-oil? I did a test on one side of the stock forend, and it seemed ok. As in looked nice and dried properly. It was then planed off as i'm shaping the forend to my taste. But saying that i've obviously no idea of the longer term issues, like the notorious weather in the uk and how the wood will cope. Some advice would be appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonicdmb Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 are we going to see any photo's or is there nowt to see yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted April 12, 2013 Report Share Posted April 12, 2013 I'm not total sure but when I was being taught to refinish stocks years ago I was told not to use oil based stain with an oil finish, the guy knew his stuff and still does wood work for some of the top London gun names. It's to do with the way they react and penetrate the wood. I use a water based stain and my own stock oil and never had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pestcontrol1 Posted April 20, 2013 Report Share Posted April 20, 2013 hows the stock comming on jam1e ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stoogey Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 (edited) spray laquer it? Edited April 21, 2013 by stoogey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 whats happened to this thread I thought by now we would have had some pics......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted April 21, 2013 Report Share Posted April 21, 2013 How are you getting on let's have an update couple of photos etc. Hope you end up with what YOU want! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 (edited) Apologies fellas, Been, further side-tracked with the dreaded house decorating, (recently moved) along with diy nv, and trying to improve on my dreadfull shotgun pigeon/corvid shooting ability..... However, i have made some progress. Mostly, shortening the forend, along with working down the depth and width of the forend. As there's been some interest in the project via pm's/emails from people who want to know my experiences before committing to buying, but don't want to post openly, I'll make a point of be totally honest during my updates, whether they're good or bad! Or even if it ends up being a total ****-up! Any mistakes will no doubt please a few sad little people on here, but it's worth it if it saves a few other people making mistakes, wasting money. Anyhow, more importantly..... To be honest, thus far it's not been as easy as i though it would be. The planning, measuring and marking up areas to cut, plane, sand, and so forth, take alot longer to do than the actual wood trimming itself, as each modification you make usually has a knock-on effect to some other part. I'll try and take some photos of actual progress tomorrow, but for now i can only add a couple i took with my phone (as my daughter "nicked" her phone back) so apologies for the quality.... Edited April 22, 2013 by jam1e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2013 spray laquer it? Hi Stoogey, I didn't want to use laquer, as from what i've been told it ends up brittle and chips. So after a few knocks it looks **** and the only thing you can do is strip it and re-finish it. I did want to use a coloured wax, and a test area did give a nice finish. However, to air on the side of caution, i took the advice from other more experienced members on the forum here who suggested various finishing oils and ended up going with Tru-Oil. atb Jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 my other halfs dad would love that stock as a project, he makes rocking horses from kits like that and looks like he probably does less sanding than that will require. If you have the gear though it shouldn't take too many weeks to sort out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 my other halfs dad would love that stock as a project, he makes rocking horses from kits like that and looks like he probably does less sanding than that will require. If you have the gear though it shouldn't take too many weeks to sort out. Apologies fellas, Been, further side-tracked with the dreaded house decorating, (recently moved) along with diy nv, and trying to improve on my dreadfull shotgun pigeon/corvid shooting ability..... However, i have made some progress. Mostly, shortening the forend, along with working down the depth and width of the forend. As there's been some interest in the project via pm's/emails from people who want to know my experiences before committing to buying, but don't want to post openly, I'll make a point of be totally honest during my updates, whether they're good or bad! Or even if it ends up being a total ****-up! Any mistakes will no doubt please a few sad little people on here, but it's worth it if it saves a few other people making mistakes, wasting money. Anyhow, more importantly..... To be honest, thus far it's not been as easy as i though it would be. The planning, measuring and marking up areas to cut, plane, sand, and so forth, take alot longer to do than the actual wood trimming itself, as each modification you make usually has a knock-on effect to some other part. I'll try and take some photos of actual progress tomorrow, but for now i can only add a couple i took with my phone (as my daughter "nicked" her phone back) so apologies for the quality.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonicdmb Posted April 23, 2013 Report Share Posted April 23, 2013 nice to see some progress, although browny points are always worth scoring you never know when you need them. I know what you mean two steps forward one back but as long as it how you want it does it matter how long it takes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 nice to see some progress, although browny points are always worth scoring you never know when you need them. I know what you mean two steps forward one back but as long as it how you want it does it matter how long it takes. Cheers Sonic. I'm retired so no rush at all, and it's relaxing work to boot! I've taken some more pics so it'll post them up later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) The first 2 picture shows the forend after planing the bottom and sides. Both the sides and bottom of the forend were planed down around half an inch per side. The bottom of the stock stepped down around half an inch thicker just infront of the milling for the trigger guard mounting point. The bottom of the stock will remain a little thicker than need be along the bottom compared to the sides. If it works out "ok" i'll probably plane a little more off the bottom of the forend, angling it so it "smoothes" into the current depth as it is at the milled trigger guard assembly, as i can't set this any deeper due to the depth of the action. Edited April 24, 2013 by jam1e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) Picture 1, (top left) shows the rear of the forend where the electric planer wouldn't reach. I'll use my electric file size belt sander to sort that bit. The overall width of the forend is now just under 1 1/2" wide. I should have left this slightly wider, as i still need to plane the sides of the forend in an arch/oval type shape to get the mix of the 2 types of laminate. There is no issue in rounding off the bottom of the stock as there is alot of "meat" on it. However, as you will see from the points marked with an arrow in the bottom right-hand picture, there's very little room for rounding the sides of the stock, hence as wishing i'd left the sides of the stock a little thicker. The top right picture shows how the wood on the forend would appear if left "flat" after planing. You wouldn'd seen the different shades of the laminate. Not taking this account is probably my biggest mistake, so far anyhow! Edited April 24, 2013 by jam1e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2013 (edited) The first picture here should have been at the beginning. The picture shows the look of the stock after 5 inches of the forend have been cut off, which included one set of the side vents. The second picture shows the butt end with an area marked in black from the thumb-hole point. This is where i'm considering "scolloping" out some of the wood. I'd guess that a stock must have a balance point???, (feel free to give your, "CONSTRUCTIVE" opinion on this point) If so, without this scolloping out of the stock, complete with action and scope the rifle would be very rearward heavy i would imagine??? Maybe it would suit me? However, this remains to be seen.... Edited April 24, 2013 by jam1e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 i think id be taking a bit more of the pistol grip area it looks very wide from the photo's and maybe lightening the front a bit more. What width barrel is going into it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I was going to say pistol grip looks a bit heavy even if you have monster hands. The forend looks very deep unless you like the target rifle feel. Are you opening up the thumb hole? Looks a good shape to me to lock in your hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 It's only a standard size "sporter" barrel. I think i'll likely take some off the depth of the forend as mentioned and feather it into the start of the trigger guard action. Hadn't thought about the pistol grip, but now you've mentioned it, it does look abit too chunky. Fits me ok, but hardly looks elegant.... I can't decide whether to remove some of wood on the inside of the butt area. I think it'll depend on whether it balances ok. Is there such a thing as a centre balance point on a rifle? It's a good job i have plenty of power tools! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Did abit of work with the hand block planer and the electric file belt sander today, out in the garden with the sunshine. Very nice it was too! Bar the huge amount of dust anyhow! I planed off a small amount from the sides of the forend nearest the butt where the electric planer couldn't get to. I also rounded off the sides of the forend slightly to, along with removing a small amount around the pistol grip. It doesn't look much but i'm playing it safe, as obviously once it's off its off! Once i'd hoovered all the dust off the stock, i screwed the action to it and practiced shouldering the rifle with my eyes closed, then opening them to see if my line of site was level and correct with the scope. Which it was, so i'm well chuffed. I've no idea how a rifle is supposed to balance while shouldered, but it feels nicely balanced to me? I'll post a few pictures of the stock with action attached. Please excuse the manky carpet, weve not long moved and this room hasn't been renovated yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jam1e Posted April 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Done abit more today. Only sanding really. It's quite hard work hand sanding minor tooling marks/dinks out of laminate. I've decided i'm going to bed the tang and lug. I've looked on youtube and there are examples of bedding using various compounds. I've seen "Devcon" used, "Liquid Metal", and plain old epoxy. Has anyone used any of these, and what are your opinions on it? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SPARKIE Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 use the devcon forget standard epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 I've had a gun done with acruglass mate swears by M3 chem metal stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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