willks84 Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 As above cheers It's an old browning meadalist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Depends totally on how it needs fixing. Get it to a gunsmith who actually does the work (not a gun seller) otherwise you pay more Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Contact UK Gun Repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bi9johnny Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 had one done last year a miroku £50 tops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy835 Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 yes speak to dennis, uk gun repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 All depends on what needs doing , quite a different gun to the Miroku ,so you can not compare . You might just get a way with the bites being built up but it needs to be assessed by a competent gunsmith first . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Give UK gun repairs a shout they will give you good honest advice and a competitive price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan gun Posted October 2, 2013 Report Share Posted October 2, 2013 Look on midway usa on youtube they add solder/weld to the hinge catch on the barrel and file it down till it fits correct. Atb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 That can work for over and unders with the hook on the bottom of the barrel. It won't work with a Medallist - which has the bi-furcated stubs on either side of the action / barrels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 That can work for over and unders with the hook on the bottom of the barrel. It won't work with a Medallist - which has the bi-furcated stubs on either side of the action / barrels. Bingo Gordon's right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wabbitbosher Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Gunsmith job , its a "Dont try this at home" thing , i've seen All sorts of DIY tightenup jobs Most are Very crude and Very dangerous indeed involving hammers, anvils, vices and even chewing gum , Its not a costly job and when done right the gun will be safe to use for Years to come Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willks84 Posted October 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2013 Gunsmith job , its a "Dont try this at home" thing , i've seen All sorts of DIY tightenup jobs Most are Very crude and Very dangerous indeed involving hammers, anvils, vices and even chewing gum , Its not a costly job and when done right the gun will be safe to use for Years to come I've tried chewing gum it didn't wrk :( Thanks for the advice I'm gonna nip it to a bloke I know when I get chance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danoi99 Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 I tightened up my for-end on an old side by side with the aid of a hammer and a punch !! The gun only cost £100 but I was still nervous. Would not try any D.I.Y on a decent gun. Pay a good gunsmith to do it mate................keep the economy flowing and all that jazz !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 I tightened up my for-end on an old side by side with the aid of a hammer and a punch !! The gun only cost £100 but I was still nervous. Would not try any D.I.Y on a decent gun. Pay a good gunsmith to do it mate................keep the economy flowing and all that jazz !!! You've not tightened the gun ie put it back on face you just made it feel stiff to open. They are not the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 I tightened up my for-end on an old side by side with the aid of a hammer and a punch !! The gun only cost £100 but I was still nervous. Would not try any D.I.Y on a decent gun. Pay a good gunsmith to do it mate................keep the economy flowing and all that jazz !!! I dunno what you did with that hammer and punch but the forend being modified cannot put a gun back on the face ( the best and quickest check for the fault is to remove the forend and check for play) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danoi99 Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 You've not tightened the gun ie put it back on face you just made it feel stiff to open. They are not the same thing. I dunno what you did with that hammer and punch but the forend being modified cannot put a gun back on the face ( the best and quickest check for the fault is to remove the forend and check for play) Read the post guys !! I was just saying that I tightened up my loose forend on an old side by side...............and that doing this relatively simple task made me nervous !! I make no mention of putting my gun back on face. I was just trying to point out that gunsmiths are the best guys to work on yer gun !! I know the original question was about putting a gun back on face................ Anyway, sorry for straying off the original post and causing any bad feeling or confusion As for making my gun stiff? Don't know how you could make that assumption sir? I was very careful, I punched a very small amount of metal forward..........it was just enough to stop the thing rattling around so much !!! Would I attempt such a thing on a quality gun? NO.............it cost me £100...........it's a Gunmark Sabel with scratched barrels and cabinet dings on the stock !!!!! Now it has a forend that doesn't rattle !! Kind regards Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 Miss understanding I thought you had tried the hammer and punch 'trick' on the barrel hook not the forend loop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danoi99 Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 Dont think I will be trying any gunsmithy type stuff in the future...........though I do fancy having a crack at chequering. Just gotta bite the bullet and get a little starter set.......20 lines per inch set from dembart. Cant be that hard can it ? hee hee ( only joking warrior, max respect for this art form) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sage 100 Posted October 7, 2013 Report Share Posted October 7, 2013 Before I reply to this can I thank the lads for recommending us, your continued support is much appreciated. Gordon is correct - you cannot work on the barrel bites on a Medallist it would be inadvisable to do this. The question is loose and off the face - this is two separate issues. Normally on the Medallist they suffer with lack of grip. To remedy this the action has to be fully stripped, the bolt removed and by a highly competent tig welder additional metal is laid onto the bolt. Then by means of accurate filing and use of a smoke lamp the bolt is realigned with the barrel grip and this remedies lack of grip and often pulls down the barrels back onto the face. Option 2 - wear has taken place on the barrel pivots. On an English gun we would be talking about the cross pin. The two circular studs on either side of the action to which the barrels hinge onto have become worn and allow the barrels to move forward off the face. This I would suggest is unlikely and the lack of grip is causing the problem but diagnosing by email is not an option. I would suggest that you seek out a competent smith in your area and get him to take a careful look as this is a major safety issue. The cost of reinstating grip in our workshops including the strip and rebuild would be circa £140. I trust this helps. PS Gordon if you find yourself in the area drop in for a cup of coffee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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