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What zeroing for .303?


Frenchieboy
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I have been told by my firearms office that I should get my certificate back in the morning post (It was posted yesterday afternoon) so I will be picking up my Lee Enfield late morning to lunchtime. This means that I will have the scopes fitted and be able to get out and zero it in the afternoon (Weather permitting) so my question is:

Should I zero it in the same way as I would a .243 - that is about 1 inch high at 100 yards, and if I do that what sort of bullet drop might I expect at say 200 and 300 yards using 180(ish) g partizan FMJs?

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Just zero it a 100yds if that's the set facility you have. No way of saying more without bullet details and real chroned velocity, how far is your max range and min range you expect?

I 100% don't believe in this 1" high at X range, leads to too much assumption IMO and we know what assuming does

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I zero my .308 1inch high at 100 yards .That allows me to shoot point of aim from 50 yards to 250 yards .If I carnt get with in 250 yards then I leave it . Your .303 is not that different to the .308 . Zero an inch high at 100 and see how it goes . I have zeroed this way for donkeys years and it has never let me down out to 300 yards .

 

Harnser.

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What you going to use it for Pete?

 

TEH

It is "conditioned" for Deer, AOLQ and for Target Shooting! It will be used mainly Stalking and Culling and Target work.

Heaven alone knows if I will ever find any bits left to pick up if I plug an unfortunate rabbit (Or mole :whistling: ) with it! :oops: I think we can safely say that it has more than enough "grunt" to kill just about any quarry that you might care to take on with it in the UK (And most other countries come to that). :yes::yes::yes:

My real reason for choosing it is that I have always viewed the Lee Enfield as a "Trully Classic Rifle" in it's own right, and have always wanted to own one -This one just happened to come up at the right time while I was photographing a load of rifles for a gun shop's web site and it just felt so good to handle as soon as I touched it.

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I zero my .308 1inch high at 100 yards .That allows me to shoot point of aim from 50 yards to 250 yards .If I carnt get with in 250 yards then I leave it . Your .303 is not that different to the .308 . Zero an inch high at 100 and see how it goes .

 

Harnser.

 

I know it may sound a bit nit picky but I rather agree with Kent over this 1" high at 100 yards business.

 

In the case of Harnser for example, it is not "point of aim from 50 yards to 250 yards". You have already said that it is 1" high at 100 yards!

 

It may be that all of your shots fall in a killing area approx 2" dia from 50 yards to 250 yards but that is not the same thing.

 

The only way of finding out the trajectory of your bullets fired through your gun is to shoot at targets placed at sensible ranges. Once you know the trajectory and you have an idea of the typical range of your quarry you can choose an appropriate zero and decide on a kill zone and hence the amount of holdover / holdunder (or scope adjustment) required for those ranges.

 

Having done that, a published chart or computer software can be very useful (or plain old graph paper) to fill in the gaps.

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Just zero it a 100yds if that's the set facility you have. No way of saying more without bullet details and real chroned velocity, how far is your max range and min range you expect?

I 100% don't believe in this 1" high at X range, leads to too much assumption IMO and we know what assuming does

 

Kent and myself have the odd debate, and I have a lot of time for Frenchieboy, but I can't argue with that!

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