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Help required newbie 410 reloading


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I have just purchased a 410 o/u shotgun and due to the cost and availability of 3 inch cartridges in my area was thinking about loading my own. Only one problem I have no previous experience in doing so.Can anybody suggest a good website that could help me, also are there any books available on the subject ? Where can I buy all the necessary tools etc without breaking the bank ?

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I do mine on a pillar drill with a cheap roll turnover tool.

I use pre primed new cases.

 

I save a little bit of money but for me it's about getting exactly what I want in my shell.

 

Just get some decent scales a piece of 9mm dowel to seat wads/cards.

But I guess it's only a cheap setup because I already had the pillar drill.

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If you are going to reload used cases you will need to resize the metal case head down to it's original size also depending on what make of case you will need use another die to take the slight bulge out of the plastic portion or it may be tight in the chamber.

Siarm can supply most of what you require in the ways of equipment.

http://www.siarm.com/index.php?cPath=2&osCsid=8a8324e58bb11d7f9a8a4929aec8b1d7

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whats the best press to go for? was looking at a MEC 600 is it worth the outlay as i enjoy shooting .410 on clays its entertaining and if i could reduce the running costs it would be a blast i would be looking for info on loading 3 inch carts with 18g of 8's any info would be great fully received :)

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Guest cookoff013

whats the best press to go for? was looking at a MEC 600 is it worth the outlay as i enjoy shooting .410 on clays its entertaining and if i could reduce the running costs it would be a blast i would be looking for info on loading 3 inch carts with 18g of 8's any info would be great fully received :)

 

check out nobelsport SP3 powder, H110, winchester296, lilgun etc.

 

it is one of the calibres where reloading can pay off, just due to unavailability. if / when you get starting up, dont buy any junk. primers and shot is universal. then buy the powder and wads you need.

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i have requested some of clay and games data sheets hope fully these will help me compile a shopping list ;)

 

Be aware that if these are from the old claygame CD a lot of recipes are gash. I was using one for H110 in .410 and it was leaving loads of unburnt powder in the tubes until I added a grain or so to get it up to a sensible working pressure. The stated dose was too light to burn properly. Most have no pressure data.

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If you want to do it without breaking the bank, I would follow Ropemonkeys advice. :good: The mecs, whilst good, they are incredibly hard to set up. Ok, they will resize your spent shell, but tbh, again, I would go with Ropemonkeys advice and buy new primed shells. Used shells stretch, need resizing, split and you can only use them a couple of times. If you use a Mec, and start seeking the holy grail of crimps, you will find you end up buying a crimp finisher anyway. So you might as well just get a rto, use a drill and be done with it.

Great fun though and very satisfying. There are some really helpful chaps here for advice, so get cracking :good:

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Does it matter if its fibre or plastic wad chap?

no either will do bud :)

Suggest 2.5 inch 14 gram no 8 or 9 may be cheaper to buy and give a better pattern than 3 inch lyvale are quite good and not to expensive at justcartridges

cheers will take a peek :)

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I do mine on a pillar drill with a cheap roll turnover tool.

I use pre primed new cases.

I save a little bit of money but for me it's about getting exactly what I want in my shell.

Just get some decent scales a piece of 9mm dowel to seat wads/cards.

But I guess it's only a cheap setup because I already had the pillar drill.

This method quite appeals to me as I only want to produce small batches of say 100 at a time.

I guess the biggest outlay would be a pillar drill, what kind of size would I need ?

What other tools would I need apart from the turnover tool and scales ?

would a turnover finish be ok on a 410 , 3 inch cartridge ?

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This method quite appeals to me as I only want to produce small batches of say 100 at a time.

I guess the biggest outlay would be a pillar drill, what kind of size would I need ?

What other tools would I need apart from the turnover tool and scales ?

would a turnover finish be ok on a 410 , 3 inch cartridge ?

 

You don't need a drill press, I've seen a clip on you tube with someone just using a normal electric drill but a bit fiddly. However, If you have an electric drill and pop it in one of these, its much better you're sorted.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DRILL-PRESS-STAND-FOR-ROTARY-MULTITOOL-COLLAR-HAND-DRILLS-43mm-38mm-/390565636841?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item5aef86aae9

 

Here's a clip showing the same set up.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nlysb5JuKVg

 

Eleys have a rto finish, and I suspect there are others out there. I think its because the small shell doesn't lend itself to crimping well. One of the experienced guys on here will probably tell you why.

Tools:

If you're using new primed shells, all you will need is:

scales to measure the powder weight

a bit of dowel to push the wad down

scales to measure the shot weight

over shot card

roll over tool

Sorted :good:

 

If you experiment with things lying about the place, like you can cut down an old brass shell to make a powder or shot measure to save you weighing each time. But be accurate on your style. Or you can buy some designated measures called dippers. More fun to make up your own though.

Edited by turbo33
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This method quite appeals to me as I only want to produce small batches of say 100 at a time.

I guess the biggest outlay would be a pillar drill, what kind of size would I need ?

What other tools would I need apart from the turnover tool and scales ?

would a turnover finish be ok on a 410 , 3 inch cartridge ?

Alright chap. Doing a 100 by hand takes me a fair bit of time. This might be just because I'm quite anal about measuring out my powder and shot. I reckon it would take me over an hour to knock 50 cartridges out.

 

Yeah the biggest outlay would be the drill. Then the scales. As has been mentioned by someone you can do them with a cordless but the pillar drill is far superior.

The other thing I would suggest making/buying is a reloading block to hold your cases and stop them tipping over between loading processes. (If you have the drill this is easy to make.

 

Yeah you can RTO any length of case. An most data I have found use RTO rather than a star crimp. Hope this helps.

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