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Brazing Question


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There are many ways to achieve what you want. If you cant go back to your work and get someone to weld or braze them up and your only way is to do it yourself then this is how I would do it. As this is not a high stress load area I would skin a bit of cable back and get some thin strands of the flex or some other source like 30 amp fuse wire. I would then bind up the joint wires into the position that you want and then make a small hearth out of some brick or the like to keep the heat where you need it and then using a plumbers stick solder (the big stick stuff) with a bit of flux joint the whole lot together. If some small diameter copper tube is available then you could cut some rings and solder that around the joint to give it a bit more strength. this would make a joint with more than enough strength to do what is required of it and it is easy to do and easy to repair or modify if it is needed. If you do this type of joint remember to clean all the parts with either wire wool or emery cloth so that when you apply the solder that it will flow easily and give a good strong joint. RULE>> 5 minutes cleaning, = 1 minute soldering not he other way round.

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Aye, Rothenberger Sure fire and Mapp gas will be all you need, it's what I use.

 

Oh, don't forget to use brazing flux (normally a powder, dip a hot rod into it), plumbers flux isn't really up to the job.

I've got a tin ready for a dip, thanks.

PC you might want to use a fire brick to bounce back some reflected heat

Obtained fire bricks for hearth ready to go.

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There are many ways to achieve what you want. If you cant go back to your work and get someone to weld or braze them up and your only way is to do it yourself then this is how I would do it. As this is not a high stress load area I would skin a bit of cable back and get some thin strands of the flex or some other source like 30 amp fuse wire. I would then bind up the joint wires into the position that you want and then make a small hearth out of some brick or the like to keep the heat where you need it and then using a plumbers stick solder (the big stick stuff) with a bit of flux joint the whole lot together. If some small diameter copper tube is available then you could cut some rings and solder that around the joint to give it a bit more strength. this would make a joint with more than enough strength to do what is required of it and it is easy to do and easy to repair or modify if it is needed. If you do this type of joint remember to clean all the parts with either wire wool or emery cloth so that when you apply the solder that it will flow easily and give a good strong joint. RULE>> 5 minutes cleaning, = 1 minute soldering not he other way round.

I've brazed some already at my sons school using natural gas and air so I know the form .

 

 

Thank you all for the information and helpful answers to my question.

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What gas would you recommend propane or Mapp???

MAPP gas is fine...as the previous post say dont overheat what you are welding, cherry red is fine, buy yourself a tub of siflux its about 12 or so quid and will last for ages....if you are using fencining wire it will proberly be coated in zinc (galvinised) you must remove the coating as it will braze badley and it will produce cyanide gas it looks like a greeny bluey smoke and will make you ill like bad flue....the brazing rods for wire should be around 2mm dia............

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yes Work Harden , engineering term , as you try to push them into frozen ground pre dawn the frame has a tendency to bend but the weld is strong you have to bend them back into shape or position to make the bird look natural over time the bending by the weld makes the frame break and eventually to be replaced. Hence the original question/post

Are you referring to metal fatigue due to repeated bending next to the weld when you straighten them?

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Ok I thought I'd ask as the two are not the same thing. steel does not work harden while brass (those who reload will of come across this) does.

A welded joint would be stronger than brazed. Normalizing/annealing the joint after welding would probably help reheating to blue rather than red heat then allow to cool.

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Ok I thought I'd ask as the two are not the same thing. steel does not work harden while brass (those who reload will of come across this) does.

A welded joint would be stronger than brazed. Normalizing/annealing the joint after welding would probably help reheating to blue rather than red heat then allow to cool.

 

Thanks I will try that with the ones in complete.

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