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Cleaning Rod For CZ 455 .22


Brad93
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Hi all, anyone direct me to a good quality cleaning rod for my CZ .22LR? I've been looking at tetra, Dewey or Tipton but have no idea which is better. I see that the Tipton is carbon fibre and the tetra is coated?

 

I guess I will also need a jag, patches, brass brush and a mop?

 

I've read online that people are using .20 cleaning rods as a .22

Rod catches on the ejector?

 

Thanks in advance.

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My advice is don't clean it.

I have a recently purchased 452 which was practically new. I intend not to clean it, ever.

I wouldn't say it about other calibres but .22 seems to lose a lot of accuracy when cleaned, so don't bother.

Edited by 39TDS
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I have Dewey in .17 and Parker in .22

 

They are both good with nice ball bearing action.

 

Some people believe in cleaning and some don't.

 

I do. I do not have any problem, with accuracy after cleaning. Possibly because it is clean!

 

Do a search and you will see that opinions differ widely. I do not like bore snakes either.

 

I also use a bore guide.

 

Good luck, stick to whatever your instincts tell you is right.

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Hi all, anyone direct me to a good quality cleaning rod for my CZ .22LR? I've been looking at tetra, Dewey or Tipton but have no idea which is better. I see that the Tipton is carbon fibre and the tetra is coated?

 

I guess I will also need a jag, patches, brass brush and a mop?

 

I've read online that people are using .20 cleaning rods as a .22

Rod catches on the ejector?

 

Thanks in advance.

The 455 catches the rod and strips any coating, the cure is a bore guide and keeping the trigger depressed with some tape or string during cleaning

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My advice is don't clean it.

I have a recently purchased 452 which was practically new. I intend not to clean it, ever.

I wouldn't say it about other calibres but .22 seems to lose a lot of accuracy when cleaned, so don't bother.

Yet target shooters and many hunters like myself clean. Nothing replicates like a clean barrel you can never copy a state of dirtiness. Badly done cleaning moves muck into lumps in awkward places and ruins accuracy, clean more regular and clean better is the answer. None the less .22's need re-leading before they are 100% on song normally 20-30 shots at most. Most are very useable from squeaky clean though as regards quarry at medium ranges

Try shooting an old crud up barrel at longer ranges, at 30-50 yds and the difference is very apparent at 30-50 yds it takes a decent shot to notice a great difference

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Check out intershoot. I just got a carbon rod 5mm for my comp gun. Having said that I cleaned my second hand cz452 and have gone from 2 inch groups at 80 yards to 3 inch groups at 30 yards after 100 rounds. It's *****d it, am changing the trigger kit now and use it as a plinker.

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Check out intershoot. I just got a carbon rod 5mm for my comp gun. Having said that I cleaned my second hand cz452 and have gone from 2 inch groups at 80 yards to 3 inch groups at 30 yards after 100 rounds. It's *****d it, am changing the trigger kit now and use it as a plinker.

 

Unless there is another issue I suggest it needs more cleaning

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Check out intershoot. I just got a carbon rod 5mm for my comp gun. Having said that I cleaned my second hand cz452 and have gone from 2 inch groups at 80 yards to 3 inch groups at 30 yards after 100 rounds. It's *****d it, am changing the trigger kit now and use it as a plinker.

 

3" groups at 30 yards is ridiculous. At 30 yards you should easily be grouping within 1" without really trying.

 

As Kent suggests, you either have a very badly cleaned barrel and need to do a better job of it or there is something else significantly wrong with your gun or choice of ammunition.

 

I carried out a series of tests on my own CZ and it does not require multiple fowling shots to restore accuracy, just one bullet fired does the job and even that is only slightly out.

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3" groups at 30 yards is ridiculous. At 30 yards you should easily be grouping within 1" without really trying.

 

As Kent suggests, you either have a very badly cleaned barrel and need to do a better job of it or there is something else significantly wrong with your gun or choice of ammunition.

 

I carried out a series of tests on my own CZ and it does not require multiple fowling shots to restore accuracy, just one bullet fired does the job and even that is only slightly out.

 

Mine will only run a bullet width out at 50 from squeaky, indeed its hard to spot the settling period unless you shoot a single round at each separate target- the POI tends to go not very far from zero (like I say a bullet width) but could be at sat 1o'clock then 6 o'clock then 9 etc. to shoot a group at 50 at say that might look ok to many

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It's my 21st birthday present this rifle, it's fired 130 shots from new and it is immaculate. I've ran some patches through and the bore looks immaculate too. Not had much time to put it on targets yet so don't know what the accuracy is like. I'd like to have this gun for a long time it being a special birthday.

Edited by Brad93
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It's my 21st birthday present this rifle, it's fired 130 shots from new and it is immaculate. I've ran some patches through and the bore looks immaculate too. Not had much time to put it on targets yet so don't know what the accuracy is like. I'd like to have this gun for a long time it being a special birthday.

Look after it then, I have a rod I still use that was bought for my own 21st (all of a few years ago LOL)

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All you need with a 22LR is a pull through. I do mine after shooting with a few patches in a pull through with nothing but gun oil.

If I feel like I want to give it more i soak a patch with Hoppes number 9, then another with a dab of oil.

 

These rifles just dont need as much cleaning with lead bullets.

Edited by peek-at
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Check out intershoot. I just got a carbon rod 5mm for my comp gun. Having said that I cleaned my second hand cz452 and have gone from 2 inch groups at 80 yards to 3 inch groups at 30 yards after 100 rounds. It's *****d it, am changing the trigger kit now and use it as a plinker.

 

I can't help but think there is more to this!

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Back in the day I spent a lot of time cleaning my .22lr and it paid dividends, pretty much all my work then was competition.

 

My current .22 LR bolt and semi are both dedicated sub sonic field rifles, the bolt action is cleaned the least of all my rifles and just has lead/powder residue to remove, a pretty simple and quick operation.

 

It doesn't get the care I lavished on my target tools, but it stays accurate after a clean, which I do more out of respect than need. My .22lr semi gets cleaned more often primarily for mechanical related issues.

 

:good:

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Dadioles sorry to ask but would you be able to advise your cleaning process? And any fluids/bore cleaners you used?

 

Many Thanks

 

Hello Brad93

 

In brief.....

 

I remove the moderator and the bolt and hold the gun steady in a bench stand with the muzzle pointing slightly down so that fluids run away from the breech end.

 

Procedures vary a bit depending on my mood!! But it only takes 10 minutes or so.

 

Put the bore guide in position (it replaces the bolt).

 

Place a patch on the pointed jag and wet it with a couple of drops of solvent and push it through from breech to muzzle, the bore guide ensures a clean and straight entry through the chamber. On my hmr it is tight and take a few firm taps to push it through but on a .22 it is a lot easier. Let it spin with the rifling as it goes through. When it exits, remove the patch and gently pull the rod back out the way it went in. Repeat with a new wet patch until clean (maybe a dozen patches? - whatever it takes).

 

Sometimes (rarely) I will push a bronze brush through, sometimes a nylon brush and sometimes a wet sheepskin brush - as I said, it is how the mood takes me.

 

After a few solvent soaked patches they will come out pretty clean.

 

A quick wipe with a dry cloth or tissue around the chamber and the muzzle to remove any drips of fluid then push through a dry patch followed by a patch with a drop of gun oil and that is about it, job done.

 

If I am going to be shooting within a day or so after cleaning I will follow the oily patch with a dry patch and finish off with a patch that has a drop of meths on it to remove the oil (why do I bother with the oil?) and finally yet another dry patch.

 

It sounds an awful lot more complicated than it really is. I find it therapeutic, some would suggest more suitable words, anal has been used!.

 

My logic is that if the gun is not used for a few days, the oily patch leaves a thin film of oil to protect the barrel.

 

If the gun is to be used soon. You do not want any deposits of oil in the barrel, hence the meths.

 

As far as products are concerned. I use Parker Hale 009, Riflecraft Bore Cleaner and Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV. They are also for my .17 hmr (you will not need copper solvent). Also Bisley Gun Oil and Tetra Gun Grease.

 

That is about it. I expect that everyone will have their own favourites, it tends to be dictated by whatever your gun shop has in stock and can make most profit from.

 

The bolt gets a wipe with a dry cloth and the thinnest possible smear of gun grease before it goes back on. The moderator (in my case SAK or DM80) gets a quick strip and a few hard taps to shake out the crud then a smear of grease on the thread before it too goes back on - yes, against advice I do store my guns in the cabinet butt up, barrel down, moderator in place. A thick piece of foam in the floor of the cabinet for the moderator to rest on, I am very gentle with it.

 

Enjoy your shooting. It will be interesting to hear if you have any problems with accuracy after cleaning as you sound like the sort of chap who would clean his rifle properly. Do try a few makes of ammunition though, it has been said many times, as they do behave very differently. A 5 shot group within the area covered by a 10p coin at 40 or 50 yards is a good start.

 

Best wishes.....

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