scotslad Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Alright Just wondering if u could start again from scratch wot would ur ideal kennel design be? Really lucky in that i have just bought a small piece of land out in the country to build a house on, but my first thoughts are to the kennel. Got a fair bit of space and already a deer fenced area of probably about an acre (thought about converting for a rabbit pen, but probably use it as an exercise training area and put a very small pond in it) Wot are the top tips or mistakes u have made u would undo if were going to rebuild ur kennels? Not saying no expense spared, but i will be doing it all myself so really only pricee off materials won't make that much difference really. Obviously drainage is a biggy having plenty of fall on kennel floors? Is it worth putting waterproofer into concrete mix? Never really known the concrete to smell that much anyway Was originally thinking of building a block shed and having indoor and outdoor runs. But thinking of sizes it all got very big (say 6 runs at 4ft ur upto 24+ft long, plus the space u need inside for sleeping box plus room) and was getting complicated with 2 doors needed to each run and ammount of sections. Now thinking of just building a 3 sided blocked kennel (east side open) all roofed with possibly only bottom couple of feet not blocked so dogs can lie in sun if they want (runs mibee 8-10ftx4 with sleeping box at far end) Is it worth putting insulation below concrete floor if runs open? Was meaning to do that for the internal runs Wot do u think is best mesh pannels or bars at 5cm? Finally how do dogs cope with midges? (Probably better than me) That will be the 1 major drawback with this site it will be a midgie heaven. I would probably buy a midge eater thing as meant to work, just wondering how others cope Cheers in advance folks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robbietherimmer Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Awrite marra No point in insulating an external concrete slab nor adding admix. For the housing I'd personally run ufh pipes to a small stove with back boiler system which would also give you hot water for washing down etc and if you've got ample wood supply it'll cost very little Get a gas midge eater, bout 500 new and deals comfortably with an acre My kennels cost me 6k and only regret is not doing ufh' boiler stove etc Robbie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian g Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 The drain on mine is at one end so hosing it down has got to be done from the other end I wish I'd of put up drains right the way through and also had them inside so I could hose the inside down instead of mopping it the concrete will smell if you don't hose it down regular I find the concrete area stays damp longer than the flagged area so think I'd Flag mine next time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 i have a large covered run area, with a bench for them to sun themselves and concrete to keep their claws down.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Longy0710 Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Awrite marra No point in insulating an external concrete slab nor adding admix. For the housing I'd personally run ufh pipes to a small stove with back boiler system which would also give you hot water for washing down etc and if you've got ample wood supply it'll cost very little Get a gas midge eater, bout 500 new and deals comfortably with an acre My kennels cost me 6k and only regret is not doing ufh' boiler stove etc Robbie Any pics Robbie?? Looking at rebuilding mine this summer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jayDT10 Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hi mate. I've just built a new kennel myself. For a footing I done a raft with a soak away dug in the middle (1.5 cube) with drainage coming from strip gullies across the front.then added a single sheet of steel mesh for a bit of piece of mind. I built the whole kennel with concrete blocks with a galvanised front off eBay (really good for thr money) . I also built the sleeping quarters out of block and the lined it out with celotex then ply. It took me a few weekends and even though i done it myself it still cost me about £500 to build complete. Having said that a least I can go to sleep knowing that my dog is in a nice clean draft free kennel. Oh yeah tompsons do a good concrete seal which you can paint on which I found really good . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 Cheers folks, keep the ideas coming. At moment got 5 dogs so wantin a decent set up so got a bit of space for extra's The huntsman of the travelling gun pack has been at me already to build it big enough for his hounds Sort of thought that about putting insulation below floor with now the having the runs external Initailly was meaning to run the water of the drainpipes and store it in a couple off raised ibc units, as no house built there yet, Also do/would u use hot water much for ur dogs? Must admit even in the kennels i've got the now i have never really wanted/needed hot water. My mates a plumber he wired up an electric shower in his kennel block, means ur only heating the water he needs, not sure if he uses it much? He will be coming up to give my some advice shortly on plumbing matters will ask how often he uses it. Robbie would really like to see a picture to give me some inspiration (ur not from west coast cumbria are u marra?) Planning on using the same wooden boxes i use the now for dogs to sleep in, but thinking of heating them (moving up about 150m into the hills will be a bit colder for dogs) can't decide wether to box in a bar type heater in box, or put some form of underfloor heating (probably an electric underfloor tile heater) below the plywood floor of sleeping box? If i use the underfloor heater would i need some stone/ or something to store the heat (like old fashioned white meter heaters or modern underfloor heating) as well as insulation below it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 I have pondered building bespoke kennel systems for a business. Thing is its very individual as to what makes a good kennel, needs being so different one to the next. Two things are essential IMO over and above the obvious 1. an adjacent hosed water supply and tap 2. dry food storage. Heating is not honestly required in all cases for good coated working dogs above the minimum in their boxes (but watch when you use it the costs can mount) I don't like wood anywhere on a kennel but it can look better on the eye than plastic. Bar is poor for pups but better for security of grown adult dogs. If your concrete stays damp I suggest you didn't do the job right, flags move and get nasties trapped in the joints Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian g Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 I have pondered building bespoke kennel systems for a business. Thing is its very individual as to what makes a good kennel, needs being so different one to the next. Two things are essential IMO over and above the obvious 1. an adjacent hosed water supply and tap 2. dry food storage.Heating is not honestly required in all cases for good coated working dogs above the minimum in their boxes (but watch when you use it the costs can mount)I don't like wood anywhere on a kennel but it can look better on the eye than plastic. Bar is poor for pups but better for security of grown adult dogs. If your concrete stays damp I suggest you didn't do the job right, flags move and get nasties trapped in the joints What I said was it stays damp longer than the flags not that it stays damp all the time the flags in mine have never moved or have nasties down the side of them that to it being done properly but since your the resident know it all on this site am sure you will still try tell me am wrong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 What I said was it stays damp longer than the flags not that it stays damp all the time the flags in mine have never moved or have nasties down the side of them that to it being done properly but since your the resident know it all on this site am sure you will still try tell me am wrong I might ask what the flags are made of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian g Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 what thickness are the flags compared to the laid thickness of concrete since you know everything and you advise people to gun dog books by joe Irving am sure it's one of his books that's suggests using flags in a kennel rather that concrete because concrete hold moisture and can cause dogs to getting arthritis through being on it long term Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegleg31 Posted February 25, 2014 Report Share Posted February 25, 2014 (edited) Wrong thread, don't know how that happened? I was answering to someone wanting rabbits Edited February 25, 2014 by pegleg31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 what thickness are the flags compared to the laid thickness of concrete since you know everything and you advise people to gun dog books by joe Irving am sure it's one of his books that's suggests using flags in a kennel rather that concrete because concrete hold moisture and can cause dogs to getting arthritis through being on it long term Point is 99% of flags are concrete anyhow. Stone flags cost way too much to use for kennels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian g Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Point is 99% of flags are concrete anyhow. Stone flags cost way too much to use for kennels. and the point is that laid concret is thicker than flags so will hold moisture longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PERCE Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 Seeing as this is fantasy kennels I'd look at something like this for floors & walls both inside & out. http://kennelflooring.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PERCE Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 and the point is that laid concret is thicker than flags so will hold moisture longer Did you put a damp proof membrane under your concrete? If there's no membrane moisture will get drawn through the concrete from the ground below. Did you DIY the mix or buy it ready mixed? Home mixes tend to be less consistent & you may have a porous finish that absorbs water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 and the point is that laid concret is thicker than flags so will hold moisture longer Not sure on that as it can only hold the moisture that gets to it. I don't hold with the bigger sponge theory as the slab should have a membrane under and a roof over it and in fairness the mix and any additives is the only real difference once you protect it water and germs can and will work within joints of paving slabs hence I don't agree in it being drier. If you think some flags are better than a properly laid 4"-6" lump of a solid slab in building a kennel in this regards you go for it though, can see you struggling when it comes to bolting down and contamination though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian g Posted February 26, 2014 Report Share Posted February 26, 2014 iv had no problems round the sides of flags can be sealed as for bolting down i never once said i bolt to flags did i Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitchsan51 Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 I am petrified of dog theft so....I am planning to put a panel across the inside of my garage , mesh it , padlock it and make Pippa feel at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PERCE Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 For secure doors http://kirnsecuredoors.com/products/personnel-doors/ good quality at a reasonable price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted February 27, 2014 Report Share Posted February 27, 2014 Is Kennel security such a big issue with many? I know theft happens and it must be devastating to the dogs owners but how is an issue is it honestly? I feel someone might be more tempted by say 1000 ltrs of fuel or plant / tools here. I should rather let a dog have some good living accom than live in a dark safe hidden away, do others feel different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted February 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2014 Must admit i'm with u a bit kent with the dog security issue, althou i'm thinking of having a corridor at the bottom of runs (just with run sections) so i only have to lock/unlock 1 door to access all the runs. I know i could never be bothered to lock every kennel door individually. Possibly i'm lucky up here as very little dog thefts, more worried if a kid etc came into my garden and let them out 'to play' and something happened. Someone once told me locks only keep honest people out!! And he is quite right some of the stuff i have heard nicked and throu some pretty good security, sometimes i struggled to get in with the keys and quads still got nicked On the kennel front worried if i block 3 sides the runs won't get enough air/sun to dry them, thinking of just blocking 2 1/2 sides now. As thinking of blocking the south side so most sun and prevailing wind Does/has anyone used those roller wind/sun breaks? Most of the fancy dairy sheds round me now have open sides but rollers which go up and down to alter temp. Might be an option for other 1 1/2 sides so i can open or shut depending on wheather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Must admit i'm with u a bit kent with the dog security issue, althou i'm thinking of having a corridor at the bottom of runs (just with run sections) so i only have to lock/unlock 1 door to access all the runs. I know i could never be bothered to lock every kennel door individually. Possibly i'm lucky up here as very little dog thefts, more worried if a kid etc came into my garden and let them out 'to play' and something happened. Someone once told me locks only keep honest people out!! And he is quite right some of the stuff i have heard nicked and throu some pretty good security, sometimes i struggled to get in with the keys and quads still got nicked On the kennel front worried if i block 3 sides the runs won't get enough air/sun to dry them, thinking of just blocking 2 1/2 sides now. As thinking of blocking the south side so most sun and prevailing wind Does/has anyone used those roller wind/sun breaks? Most of the fancy dairy sheds round me now have open sides but rollers which go up and down to alter temp. Might be an option for other 1 1/2 sides so i can open or shut depending on wheather Its easy enough to rig detachable run shields, though consider carefully which way things face. My weather comes 90% from the rear of the kennel block because I though placement through. South and south west facing gets the most sun etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scotslad Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Aye but in my area SW is generally the prevailing wind, so would get most of the wind/rain as well as sun. Was thinking of leaving the east side open, but that will only get the morning sun, plus come march/april time quite often get some bitterly cold east winds for long periods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Aye but in my area SW is generally the prevailing wind, so would get most of the wind/rain as well as sun. Was thinking of leaving the east side open, but that will only get the morning sun, plus come march/april time quite often get some bitterly cold east winds for long periods. Yeah, depends were you live do try removable solid panels over the run sides though. Stock board and galvanised frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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