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Shot making the next level


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I have decided to rekindle my interest in shotmaking ,in the past it has been by gas heating now it's time to go electric .

I have collected all the components ie digital temp controller k type thermocouple relays, switches power connectors , cartridge element heaters.

I have a large lump of aluminium bar 100mm x 50mm x 600 long which I can get a pan made from by Cnc milling ,the big question is do I try the no ramp method like FES used and drop the shot directly in to the coolant

 

Has any one seen the FES shot maker in action, all reference to it has now been removed from their website ? Or has any one made a shot maker like this please advise.

 

Deershooter

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Just what I've been looking for. Am I right in thinking I would need my shot with 5% tin in it.

 

Tin is useful to fill bullet moulds and will make shot pellets out of round by making the surface tension of the molten pellet collapse. Factory shot does not usually contain tin by choice for that reason.

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Tin is also present in linotype for the same reason as it is in bullet lead, it helps fill out the mould and give a good impression for the type face it produces but I believe it for shotmaking it has the opposite effect to the usual inclusion of arsenic which increases the surface tension of the alloy making the pellets more round than they otherwise might be. That said, anything is worth a try it may produce a better product than expected. Is plumbing solder just tin now they've banned lead from water pipes???

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Tin is also present in linotype for the same reason as it is in bullet lead, it helps fill out the mould and give a good impression for the type face it produces but I believe it for shotmaking it has the opposite effect to the usual inclusion of arsenic which increases the surface tension of the alloy making the pellets more round than they otherwise might be. That said, anything is worth a try it may produce a better product than expected. Is plumbing solder just tin now they've banned lead from water pipes???

Is it absolutely crucial the lead is perfectly round Sir?

 

I remember Winchesters shot years ago being teardrop shaped! I have made very poor shot but it worked on close birds. I was given some reloads once many years ago and they were mustard on crows from my first al48, I decided to cut one open to look at the shot for a size check. It was all shapes and sizes, and soft! They worked though!

 

I can understand miss shaped pellets wanting to steer off, however it may not happen much this side of 40yds!

 

What yerr'reckon?

 

U.

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Is it absolutely crucial the lead is perfectly round Sir?

 

I remember Winchesters shot years ago being teardrop shaped! I have made very poor shot but it worked on close birds. I was given some reloads once many years ago and they were mustard on crows from my first al48, I decided to cut one open to look at the shot for a size check. It was all shapes and sizes, and soft! They worked though!

 

I can understand miss shaped pellets wanting to steer off, however it may not happen much this side of 40yds!

 

What yerr'reckon?

 

U.

 

I don't believe it is absolutely crucial and my shot whilst good isn't perfect yet it kills at least as well as any factory cartridge, it is very hard though so probably isn't going to deform further when fired. Nevertheless if we're going to bother we should at least try and make it as good as we can.

 

It's interesting that for linotype at least they also feel the need to add 12% or more antimony to the mix along with the few % of tin to make it hard enough for its purpose. Why would they do this if the correct hardness could be achieved with tin alone?

Tin would be much easier to add but if it were that simple they would be doing it already I think.

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I don't believe it is absolutely crucial and my shot whilst good isn't perfect yet it kills at least as well as any factory cartridge, it is very hard though so probably isn't going to deform further when fired. Nevertheless if we're going to bother we should at least try and make it as good as we can.

 

It's interesting that for linotype at least they also feel the need to add 12% or more antimony to the mix along with the few % of tin to make it hard enough for its purpose. Why would they do this if the correct hardness could be achieved with tin alone?

Tin would be much easier to add but if it were that simple they would be doing it already I think.

:good:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well it's taken a couple of weeks to source all the components but here are the loose parts ready for assembly this next week .

As I now don't work in an engineering factory you don't realise how you missed the facility .I need to get a sheet of aluminium cut for a base plate for the control box ,I have the material but will have to go to a local engineering firm tomorrow to get it cut .

 

I have decided to have a temperature gauge and a circulation pump in the coolant tank but will not be using fabric softener .i will enlighten every one on what I am using at a later date .

 

The pan will be heated with a cartridge heating element and have no ramp , the small power supply is to run the temp gauge and the circulating pump .The cartridge heating element will be controlled by the digital controller through a solid state relay with a K type thermocouple measuring the temp

 

I will update as it goes along

 

Deershooter

post-5172-0-63320700-1401482403_thumb.jpg

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Finished the base plate tonight ,just the back panel to cut out for the mains power socket ,heating element socket , circulation pump and temp socket ,fuse holder .

I originally wanted every thing on plugs and sockets so it was easy to pack away but apparently the K type thermocouple is wired in compensating cable which I have been told you have to use in the length it comes in ,you can not shorten it or terminate it

 

Is there any one with more info on these thermocouples this is the first time I have used one ?

 

Won't get much done tomorrow as I am out clay shooting should get on to the wiring Thursday

 

Deershooter

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