jonna Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 (edited) Hi All, I've recently ordered a Beretta 692 and was looking for some advice on looking after the stock/foreend.... From what I've read, new Beretta's don't leave the factory with a lot of prep, so I'm looking for advice on what to use initially and on an ongoing basis. I don't intend to obsess over the thing but I've like to protect it as best I can before it gets exposed to rain etc. The finish doesn't appear to be oiled out of the factory as rather than having a 'sheen', the finish is fairly 'matt/dull' looking - the LGS advised one of two options depending on whether I wanted to retain the matt appearance or go for more of a tru-oiled look. For Matt, use a good quality wax and apply regularly wiping down after use with a silicone cloth - for a glossy finish treat with a good quality natural oil 2/3 times per year. They also advised that should I go down the wax route I should write off ever applying oil in the future. Is this good advice? Anyone have any experience or recommendations? I think if I could I'd like to retain a matt sheen as opposed to a glossy finish, but ultimately I just want to avoid water marks and blemishes. Thanks in advance, Simon. Edited June 30, 2014 by jonna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 The finish on modern Berettas is very poor. As it's not a real oil finish that's applied in the factory, your best bet is to wax it if you don't want to do much to it. Or strip It and refinish it to how you want it to look. You could get it done of people on here to a very high standard. Figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 They put a matted oil finish on these top it up with a good stock oil avoid tru oil, then maintain it with a good wax plain beeswax is fine I like a BLO wax mix personally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fruity Posted June 30, 2014 Report Share Posted June 30, 2014 I wouldnt worry to much, if its anything like mine and a shooting buddies it will spend half its life at gmk being repaired very slowly lol On the up side as said above I use a wax on mine brings the figure up Lovely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonna Posted July 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 They put a matted oil finish on these top it up with a good stock oil avoid tru oil, then maintain it with a good wax plain beeswax is fine I like a BLO wax mix personally. What would you recommend as a good stock oil? I wouldnt worry to much, if its anything like mine and a shooting buddies it will spend half its life at gmk being repaired very slowly lol On the up side as said above I use a wax on mine brings the figure up Lovely Sounds like you've had some questionable luck with your Beretta's - here's hoping I fair better! The finish on modern Berettas is very poor. As it's not a real oil finish that's applied in the factory, your best bet is to wax it if you don't want to do much to it. Or strip It and refinish it to how you want it to look. You could get it done of people on here to a very high standard. Figgy Can you recommend a wax Finny? Can anyone highlight the difference/merits of wax vs oil for a newbie please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 I make my own but if you want to buy from a large manufacture trade secret is very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevewall968 Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 CCL stock replenishing Oil is pretty good and also easy to apply as well. Smells divine as well. MM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwade545 Posted July 1, 2014 Report Share Posted July 1, 2014 http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/287118-beretta-682-ltd/ I like trade secret oils. Hope this helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 I use riddenor waxwing wax on my best London hand finished stocks. Or Phillips Walnut oil preparation on the oiled finish to two of my guns. Figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonna Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 I make my own but if you want to buy from a large manufacture trade secret is very good. http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/287118-beretta-682-ltd/ I like trade secret oils. Hope this helps Thanks again for the replies chaps - looks like trade secret oils are recommended here... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonna Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Thanks for all the replies folks. What would you advise in terms of oil/wax? Would you recommend using both products? I've been advised to use one or the other and not both, but there's info on here suggesting that you should oil first, then wax? - if doing the latter, does that imply that you wouldn't re-apply oil having applied for wax? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travlaa Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Thanks for all the replies folks. What would you advise in terms of oil/wax? Would you recommend using both products? I've been advised to use one or the other and not both, but there's info on here suggesting that you should oil first, then wax? - if doing the latter, does that imply that you wouldn't re-apply oil having applied for wax? Thanks again. I use CCL Stock conditioning oil. Brilliant stuff you just need a drop on the palm of your hand, and rub in so it warms up and creates friction. Don't get it on the Action/Engraving as it will stain it. Also don't get it in the chequering as it will make it sticky. Not sure about Wax. I have heard that it prevents you being able to apply oil as it effectively acts as a barrier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zechk Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 (edited) I'm another one who uses CCL like Trav suggests. Modern Berettas are like sponges, they drink it up. Even my Browning 725 is pretty bad for needing a lot of it as it's very new. Best advice is to do as above, creating the friction then leaving it to dry and soak properly. 3-4 coats in as many weeks when you first get the gun, followed by another coat each month after that for three or four months should give you an excellent, water resistant finish. It really makes the wood look nicer as well. After that you can just top up as needed really. Key areas to pay attention to are by the top lever, where the wood can swell if it gets waterlogged and stop the lever moving across to break the gun, and all the fiddly little bits around the trigger and where the stock attaches. Keep it out of the chequering as its beeswax based and gumms it up. That said, a simple plastic bristled brush can remove any grime from the chequering, so it's not the end of the world. Keep it off the metalwork and you are golden. CCL is the best stuff on the market IMO. Edited July 2, 2014 by Zechk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonna Posted July 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 (edited) Thanks again for the advice chaps. I'll take a look CCL and also trade secret. A couple more questions if you chaps aren't sick of me by now!... The advice is to avoid getting stock oil on the action and metal components. Any advice on doing so? Do people tend to remove the stock or mask off the action etc? Also how should the etched grips be maintained if oil is to be avoided here? Edited July 2, 2014 by jonna Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevewall968 Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Unless you are very careful, remove the stock from the action using a Beretta hex stock key . Also remove forend ironwork using appropriate star/hex/screw bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted July 2, 2014 Report Share Posted July 2, 2014 Remove the stock is the best way. Personally oil the stock then maintain it with wax I use a bees wax BLO mix I believe red kite now sell a very good one or if you can find it range right. Don't get oil or wax in the chequering hand cut or lazer as it will fill it up and make it smooth. If you must put something on it use chequering oil but normally it's not required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travlaa Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 I am usually just very carefull around the action/engraving, partly because I don't trust myself to remove the stock! I also use auto glym metal polish on the engraving and metal work. Brings it out lovely and adds some protection to it should you get anything on the metal work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonna Posted July 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Appreciate the responses... Do folk tend to leave the checkered areas of the stock/foreend then? ..or is there a specific oil/product to use in these areas? Also, the action on the 692 is slightly matt with polished beveled edges - what oil (if any) would you recommend using here? Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted July 3, 2014 Report Share Posted July 3, 2014 Action silicon oil cloth. I love it when people fill the chequering up with oils waxes etc. as it give me another job especially if it's set hard and needs recutting. My advice don't put stuff in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonna Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Action silicon oil cloth. I love it when people fill the chequering up with oils waxes etc. as it give me another job especially if it's set hard and needs recutting. My advice don't put stuff in it. Thanks for the advice, I'll do as you folk recommend and leave the checkering unprotected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonna Posted July 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 Thanks again for your advice chaps. I'm still waiting on my gun being delivered by gmk so I've had plenty of time to read up on stock finishing. I went for CCL in the end (their grain sealer and conditioning oil) since it's meant to leave a flatter finish than trade secret which is preferred. Before doing anything I've been advised to remove the stock and foreend and mask off the checkered areas, sand the current finish with 1200 wet and dry, then apply sealer and conditioning oil as per CCL's recommendation. When sanding the factory finish, how far do you recommend going? Should I just be looking to 'cut' the top surface or is it worth removing entirely the finish applied in the factory? I'm guessing the latter as if the finish is uneven before I start applying sealer/oil, then the final finish is also likely to be uneven.. thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted July 11, 2014 Report Share Posted July 11, 2014 I make my own but if you want to buy from a large manufacture trade secret is very good. +1..use it all the time and my stock and forend is looking good.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrispti Posted July 18, 2014 Report Share Posted July 18, 2014 I heard these stocks had some other kind of sealing finnish??? Apparently you cannot just rub in oil, the stock needs stripping and re-finishing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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