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lathe turned brass shells


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Hi all,

 

So I want a handful of top quality .410 brass shells to play with. I don't personally like the result of fire-formed cases and I can't find factory stuff for love nor money. So with a quiet weekend ahead, I thought I'd settle down at the lathe and run up a few shells. I reload a fair few different cartridges now but I've got a question for you chaps with a lot more experience and scientific know-how than me:

 

I'm planning to ream them for large pistol primers because I've got a lot knocking about, so ignore that bit - it's the case wall thickness that's concerning me. 12mm OD is a nice fit in my chamber and 10.4mm ID will fit standard .410 components nicely. That's leaving me with 0.8mm case walls though and I'm concerned that even in soft brass that's too thick to form/obturate to the chamber and will allow gas to flow back. What do you reloading gurus reckon? Try it as is, reduce OD, or increase ID and use over-sized cards/wads? Or maybe ditch the project and go to the pub? :rolleyes:

 

Thanks!

 

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Edited by sterling
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I would leave the dimensions as is as the only obturation concern really is in the wad to barrel fit , I use the magtec 410 cases for subsonic's and have to use oversize card's and wads to create an effective pressure seal , The internal dimensions of my cases result in using a .430" overpowder thick card wad and a .450" over shot wad so internally has quite a taper but your cases should be able to use standard components .

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Internal taper !

 

I have a bag of 444 marlin brass here. You would only have to trim the rims!

 

U.

 

Interesting. I had a couple of 9.3 x 74 shells in the past and they did work so I will have a look at some .444 brass - thanks for the hint Underdog. I may still have a go at turning a couple anyway when I've cleared enough space in the workshop to breathe.

 

The case walls would be 0.8mm but I still see your point. An interesting little project. :)

 

Ha, apologies for the typo - I was genuinely aware that the walls were 0.8mm rather than 1.6mm. It was the fact that typical brass is half that at around 0.4mm which was the concern. I'll go and edit the original post and nobody will ever know. :blush::lol:

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I'd be concerned that 0.8mm was too thin for turning on a lathe to that length but if you can, then I'm impressed!

 

I'm just learning as I go along but even on this old Zyto that's literally three times as old as I am, it's doable I reckon. It'll require making a tool but once the ID and primer pocket hole are reamed, it should be possible to make the other cuts on live centres and 0.8mm over that length shouldn't be impossible. Only one way to find out!..

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Drill and ream internal bore then turn outer diameter before you part it off from the bar stock ,Then face off the base and finish with through hole and primer pocket ,Make sure the tool is very sharp and not dull this way you do not need to turn between centres.

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Drill and ream internal bore then turn outer diameter before you part it off from the bar stock ,Then face off the base and finish with through hole and primer pocket ,Make sure the tool is very sharp and not dull this way you do not need to turn between centres.

 

I had planned to use a pipe centre for accuracy but your way is the smart way. :good:

 

I may well be interested in it! :)

I've got a thread running about black powder cartridges for a 410 I'm looking at for my dad.

Reloading looks like the only way of getting any!

 

I've already paid for them mate but you're welcome to a few of mine if Underdog takes them out and sends them to you. You'd probably have to bung him some money to cover postage.

 

I don't want to put words in his mouth though, so maybe message him yourself. If all else fails - if you cover postage, I'll send you some when they arrive. Did you follow all that? :lol:

Edited by sterling
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I wonder whether turning a plug to fit inside the shell to support it whilst turning the outside would be an option? You'd have to be very accurate with your tolerances but would make end support easier?

 

I upgraded my Myford Super 7 with a digital 3-phase inverter - it's transformed the lathe - super smooth and just dial the speed up and down or reverse without hassle. It was about the same price as buying a new imperial motor for it after the original blew up...

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I've already paid for them mate but you're welcome to a few of mine if Underdog takes them out and sends them to you. You'd probably have to bung him some money to cover postage.

 

I don't want to put words in his mouth though, so maybe message him yourself. If all else fails - if you cover postage, I'll send you some when they arrive. Did you follow all that? :lol:

Too slow again :sad1: I was busy looking for the 303 cases I've got somewhere :lol:

I would be happy to swap some beer tokens for a few, ether with you or or underdog.

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I wonder whether turning a plug to fit inside the shell to support it whilst turning the outside would be an option? You'd have to be very accurate with your tolerances but would make end support easier?

 

 

That's the ticket, that's what I mean by a pipe centre. Just a 10.4mm "plug" revolving centre one end into the bore, one 5.3mm plug the other end into the primer pocket (both of them with a recess to allow the tool to come in to face off the ends). I'm just hobby tinkering though and I'm keen to learn so I'll try "our way" and Andy's when I've got some time again.

 

Too slow again :sad1: I was busy looking for the 303 cases I've got somewhere :lol:

I would be happy to swap some beer tokens for a few, ether with you or or underdog.

 

Not to worry, I'll send you some. I'll send you a PM when I get them to arrange postage.

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