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Tunnel trap info needed


30-6
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As mentioned in a previous thread I made a wooden tunnel for a mk4 fenn, for my farmer friend. To date a couple of weeks, we haven't caught anything.

 

The entry hole either side I done as a triangle, about 2 inches wide by 4 inches high. Would a larger size hole or shape be a better option ?

 

EDIT would a hole directly above the trap work, so a rat could drop down onto trigger plate ?

Edited by 30-6
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I have tried bait, p'butter / chocolate.

 

I have enlarged entry to 3 x 2 inches either end, and also put a 2 x 2 inch hole covered in fine wire mesh above the trap. Being a wooden tunnel, this makes it easier to check and if what I have read is correct, a chink of light is beneficial in encouraging a rat to enter.

 

It is now moved to a different location inside an unused stable, where there is a water trough. The rats seem to use the crumbling hollow walls as a highway.

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Hiya

 

Rats are 'Neophobic' - (Google says 'In animal behavior, neophobia refers to the tendency of an animal to avoid or retreat from an unfamiliar object or situation') so it can take time for them to get used to anything new and hence let curiosity (yes the one that killed the cat), hunger/food smell etc.. take over.

 

Maybe not put the trap in but bait it out until this is being taken - then without tainting (handling trap without gloves) put the trap in.

 

Rem the saying - Patience is a virgin, possess her if you can.............

 

L

Edited by Loki
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Some good advice bove, following on from Loki's if u put out more tunnels ur old tunnel will no longer be the new one so might use it.

 

Would imagine advice on BASC or GWCT sites for trapping.

 

Don't want to tell u how to suck eggs as most of my advice is fairly basic

 

U really want the tunnel roof quite low too so jaws of trap can't push the rat up and close below it. Sometimes works better if the trap is slightly below the ground level so animal is coming down onto the trigger plate instead of climbing up and over it.

Is trap still shiny and new?

How light are u setting ur trap? Remember and use a stick to take safety off (take it safety is off?)

 

I'd say ur hole is quite small, at only 2 by 4 triandle, even open it out to a 2 or 3 by 4 rectangle might help, ideally u want it to be dark but so the animal can see light at the far end. Even scatter some fresh earth at entrances so it looks like being used

 

 

Just seen u have opened holes out, i wouldn't have put a hole above the trap it may glare of it or make it more visible, u really want th light at far side so looks like a 'tunnel'

Mibee different for rats but traditionally for stoats etc u place them at gates/breaks in hedges, dykes etc so animal is breaking cover and be exposed do head for the darkest place it can see. Location makes a big difference.

 

Rails traps might work ok for u if there is a ditch around the farm. Place a rail over it and set the trap on the rail and rats will use it to keep feet dry. Trap MUST be covered usually by weldmesh made into a cube so no other bird animal can access it

Edited by scotslad
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As mentioned in a previous thread I made a wooden tunnel for a mk4 fenn, for my farmer friend. To date a couple of weeks, we haven't caught anything.

 

The entry hole either side I done as a triangle, about 2 inches wide by 4 inches high. Would a larger size hole or shape be a better option ?

 

EDIT would a hole directly above the trap work, so a rat could drop down onto trigger plate ?

where in wales are you?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bit bigger hole. bury trap and cover with fine sand. Bait with peanut butter or prawn heads. You can try two traps with a space between them

, bait the space, then you can get 2 at the same time. That is handy during the mating period as a doe will entice a buck rat into the trap area. Not often had 2 but it sometimes works well.

 

A

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