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BSA Ultra SE - Zeroing/Grouping


Fudge40
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Good Afternoon,

 

I have had the above gun for about a year & still not 100% happy with the set up.

I have tried many different pellets in it, I must have kept pellet Perfect in business over the year buying different sample pellets to try.

 

I have zero'd the gun to 40 yards (outdoors) then tried to put a group within a inch area,

So far I have not been able to put all 10 pellets within this area, only about 60% are in this area.

Hoping to be at about 90% before I feel comfortable to use it for pest control.

 

Would trying to zero & group it in a indoor range be a better option? If so does anyone know of a friendly indoor range near Melton Mowbray where you dont have to be a member to use the facilities?

 

Plus I have thought about getting a bipod to keep the rifle steady as I shoot so would this be a benefit (if so any recommendations )or am I just clutching at straws?

 

Would having the rifle Regulated made a big difference to the accuracy too as I find once I have charged the rifle to 200bar the first shots don't seam to follow any kind of patter then I get 15/20 which seam to be of better quality before it drops off again.

Who make/fit the best regulators for the rifle mensioned

 

Any help or information would be a great help before I think of selling and looking for an alternative rifle.

 

 

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I'd pick Darrin at XTX air to have a reg fitted - I sent and R10 to him and his work is excellent.But in reality, if you choose any reputable tuning company, you will receive back a remarkably more consistent rifle than you sent away.

 

What you've described is a pretty standard power curve from which non regulated air rifles suffer. If you fill it up to factory recommendations (usually 200 bar) the first few are low power and a bit all over the place. Then the rifle enters its sweet spot, where the power is much more consistent. After that, as the pressure in the reserve begins to drop, so does the power output for each shot. Regulators smooth that out so shot one is the same as the last shot before there's not enough air in the reserve to generate that pressure for the power.

 

Accuracy will be improved on the shots that suffer from the pressure not being equal from shot to shot. Bear in mind though that it is quite expensive to do! It's worth doing if it's your only rifle and you are regularly taking shots that are at the longer end of an air rifle's effective range.

 

Bipods are a great tool if you're doing a lot of prone shooting, or regularly taking shots where there's nothing convenient to rest on and and sitting up is too conspicuous. I've got one on my air rifle and they are handy. Mine was a second hand Harris. it's already lasted twice as long as my two new Deben bipods it replaced added together. They're a bit costly, but they will survive anything you throw at it.

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Opinions are just that. Everyone can have their own .. l like reading other opinions etc and respect them.

 

I've seen a BSA Ultra's internal modified parts that has been reworked and modified by Airtech, John Bowkett and Ratworks.

 

Airtech's modifications and manufactured parts are far superior imho .. Airtech actually goes about things in a different way to JB. Though as l mentioned, we all have our opinions, they're nothing more than that ..

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm mystified why you want to zero in an Ultra at 40 yards. Between 25 yards and 30 yards is more normal. By my calculations you'd have to hold under for much of your trajectory. Also, you talk about buying a bipod to hold the rifle steady...How are you holding it steady to zero?

 

Bowkett, XTX and Airtech will improve any Ultra, but before you spend anymore money I think you need to have a rethink on your zero range.

 

Do you know about Chairgun, the free ballistic download from Hawke Optics? Worth a look.

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I had one of these for a while. Great little gun, low shot count though. Had exactly the same problems, couldn't get any consistency with grouping at any range. Sold it on and the new owner discovered it had a faulty hammer spring from the factory, it had not been tampered with. It was actually air tech that discovered this fault while it was being tuned. It's fine now, and after a few other tuning mods has be come a real keeper.

I've got an r10 super carbine now, it's regulated from new and has the consistency I'd expect from BSA.

Edited by Pistol p
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