How many people

[30-6]

Manufacturers recommend when fitting a new scope to wind the crosshairs to their extreme, counting the clicks, wind back half this number so as to center the crosshairs correctly.

 

How many do this? To be honest I don't.

[Dunkield]

I don't bother.

 

If you did that and the shot went 5 foot left what do you do then? bend the barrel a bit?

[dusk2dawn]

I don't bother.

 

If you did that and the shot went 5 foot left what do you do then? bend the barrel a bit?

 

 

Could you enlarge on that please? How do you set yours up?

 

D2D

[Axe]

I had my last one bore sighted, but I have done this before on others.

[justme]

If manufacturers recomend it on new scope why the F dont they come out the factory like it?

 

Justme

[pin]

I've always just moved close (25yds) and used a large target to get roughly on, then move back.

 

Which is fine when you are talking about rimmy subs or airgun pellets, I imagine a boresighter would make a lot of sense with larger centerfires

[dusk2dawn]

Manufacturers recommend when fitting a new scope to wind the crosshairs to their extreme, counting the clicks, wind back half this number so as to center the crosshairs correctly.

 

How many do this? To be honest I don't.

 

 

I thought that AND in the booklet it said 250 clicks but the scope only went to 190 odd?

 

I suppose the cost (pennies!!) to have some poor little person of far eastern origin twiddling the scopes would eat into the vast profits of the "haves".

The present mrs D2D thought I was quite mad as I sat in front of the telly with the scope to my ear listening and counting the clicks

 

D2D

[Dunkield]

Could you enlarge on that please? How do you set yours up?

D2D

 

As you asked..

 

Using 'normal' rings (not warne types) I mount the bases how I want them, thinking about if I would want to fit a lamp to the scope or not.

I put electrical tape inside the rings if they are not Optilocks, which don't need it.

Then get a small spirit level, I have a magnetic one which is ideal, stick that accross the dovetails so the gun is level.

I then get a longer spriit level an stand it vertically as far away as possible indoors, normally about 30 feet of so.

Then drop the scope onto the bases and line the vertical cross hair up with the side of the spirit level and set the eye relief.

Bolt it down nicely, evenly and gently a bit at a time.

 

Once that is all done, I go upstairs and line up the bore of the gun with an object in the distance and support the gun as securely as I can.

Then the cross hairs can be adjusted onto that object (the adjustment is back to front in this instance, up=down, left=right etc)

This will get it onto a sheet of A4 at 100 yards, I do the rest at the range.

 

Works for me

[v-max]

Hello i dont bother but i wind them once on to check iv plenty adjustment to play with.I also take the allen key with me on zero check as like start up had found it was way off.I would take scope off & mount's & turn mount's round as this can solve the problem.I also try to bore sight the rifle with scope on with the eye & done this recently for my brother who thought i was mad till when he tryed his rifle was low & left as i said.

[dusk2dawn]

Could you enlarge on that please? How do you set yours up?

D2D

 

As you asked..

 

Using 'normal' rings (not warne types) I mount the bases how I want them, thinking about if I would want to fit a lamp to the scope or not.

I put electrical tape inside the rings if they are not Optilocks, which don't need it.

Then get a small spirit level, I have a magnetic one which is ideal, stick that accross the dovetails so the gun is level.

I then get a longer spriit level an stand it vertically as far away as possible indoors, normally about 30 feet of so.

Then drop the scope onto the bases and line the vertical cross hair up with the side of the spirit level and set the eye relief.

Bolt it down nicely, evenly and gently a bit at a time.

 

Once that is all done, I go upstairs and line up the bore of the gun with an object in the distance and support the gun as securely as I can.

Then the cross hairs can be adjusted onto that object (the adjustment is back to front in this instance, up=down, left=right etc)

This will get it onto a sheet of A4 at 100 yards, I do the rest at the range.

 

Works for me

 

Interesting, useful tip there, I wasnt being funny when I asked. I hope others will post their tried and tested methods as Im sure many of us will find it useful to compare different ways.

 

D2D

[Vegeta]

Manufacturers recommend when fitting a new scope to wind the crosshairs to their extreme, counting the clicks, wind back half this number so as to center the crosshairs correctly.

 

How many do this? To be honest I don't.

 

Am I don't do it with elevation as you know the bullet will always be falling so there is no point in having it in the center for this as its a waste of moa

 

for example most centerfire rifles have a relatively flat trajectory to 100 yards so to shoot anything below 100 yards you will only need a few moa maybe 2 to 2.5 at most which is about 10 clicks on 1/4 moa scopes. All the rest of the elevation should be used to raise the impact for longer ranges.

 

With windage it isn't a bad idea to have it as centered as possible as the wind can blow in either direction in varying strengths. If you hold left or right for the wind (easier to do with particular reticles) then this isn't really a big deal.

 

All depends on your needs really.

[sandersj89]

I had my last one bore sighted, but I have done this before on others.

 

Yep, done it and it is a pain when you get inteupted and loose count!

 

Last one was bore sighted, was still a bit off though.

 

Jerry

[30-6]

This is my way and it works for me on air and rimmy in .22's.

 

Fit bottom scope mounts in desired position on rails, fit scope in desired position allowing for eye relief and addition of lamp bracket, fit top scope mounts.

 

Tighten screws on bottom scope mounts fully onto rail, tighten screws on top scope mounts lightly so as to allow for adjustment.

 

With a proven empty gun by looking in a mirror align vertical crosshair, then with the help of another person (not a wife cause their rubbish at this sort of thing), get them to tell you if you are holding the gun straight and not canting it.

 

If all is well, tighten up scope mounts screws a little at a time, ensuring even gaps between top and bottom mounts, and remember - tight is tight too tight is snapped.

 

Adjust focus ring to suit yourself looking at a light background, and zero at measured distances not guessed ones.

[30-6]

The present mrs D2D thought I was quite mad as I sat in front of the telly with the scope to my ear listening and counting the clicks

 

 

Same here when she caught me with the vacumn cleaner sucking out grass seeds from the PCP Never mind though love her, she brings a lot of money in in royalties by allowing her picture to be shown on the flag (see left).

[Peter_HMR]

Slap on the bases space them evenly as far apart as poss cause of large objective then put the scope in and put on the top of the mount screw evenly and leave it sort of loose so the scope can turn then i stick on the bipod on a level surface with both legs in as far as they can go close my eyes put the gun to my shoulder "snuggle" up into my usual position and move the scope so relief is right and line up the vertical cross hair with a corner of a wall known to be vertical and check off another one then screw on mounts.

 

As for centering the scope i wound it all the way to the left then then just counted the turns instead of clicks so was something like 10turns left to right so i put it at 5 turns non of that click counting nosense you'll have to adjust it anyway dont make much difference.

[lurcherboy]

Manufacturers recommend when fitting a new scope to wind the crosshairs to their extreme, counting the clicks, wind back half this number so as to center the crosshairs correctly.

 

How many do this? To be honest I don't.

 

 

I did but didn't suffer the shooting 5 foot off target problem.

 

I only had to add a bit of film negative to the rear mount and made zero in 15 minutes.

 

 

 

LB

[El Sid]

The reason to center a scope is to have the erector system in the middle. It is much easier for the scope to get consistent reset between the bearing points and their springs if they are in the center of thier movement. Not much you can do about it if you are using rings that mount direct to the action or a Weaver or Mil-Spec rail. But the rotary dovetail system is very much in use in the States (Burris, Redfield, Leopold) and allows adustment for this purpose.

 

The procedures outlined previously are sound. I use a collumnator (bore sighting equipment with a grid) to set up the scope in the center of it's adjustment range.

 

El Sid

[dusk2dawn]

Have just got a Hawke shot saver and in the instructions they say that a scope should not be adjusted in large increments in any one direction and to adjust the windage and elevation together. Some of one, then some of t,other and to over adjust and come back if one requires more if necessary.

Some time ago I posted about a problem with a Simmons scope where the crosshair point of impact went diagonally when using a Collimater, my RFD was screwing the windage by large amounts quite quickly in one go, followed by the elevation this is what caused the diagonal effect, :blink: now I have followed the other method its zeroed spot on at 75yds.

 

I hope this makes sense and maybe will help someone.

 

D2D