countryman Posted December 27, 2007 Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 Hi I've had my Beretta EELL 12G for about 10 months now and overall im very pleased with it. However, I have one small problem in cleaning the barrels out and that is just past the chambers it always leaves behind marks inside the barrel which I cannot seem to get out. I've tried using Napier gun cleaner but it does not work. It doesnt matter what cartridge you use either. You also get these marks whether you shoot 1 cartridge or 100. So I need something that I can use everytime. Any ideas? Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagsy Posted December 27, 2007 Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 If it's the same marks I get in my barrels (682 gold e) then they should come out by letting the Napier gun cleaner soak for a few minutes and scrubbing with a chamber brush. This may take a few goes but works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryman Posted December 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 yes i let the napier oil soak and i scrub it with the normal bronze brush. If you keep repeatedly doing it most of it will come out but it seems like a lot of hard work to me. I've not used a chamber brush though so i might try one of those. The rest of the barrels come up like a mirror almost straight away, i think its something to do with the way beretta make their barrels. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bagsy Posted December 27, 2007 Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 l'm told that lead fowling in 'back bored' barrels such mine takes more scrubbing to remove. Not sure why I'm afraid, nor whether there's any truth to it, but a good chamber brush did help with mine and I found it to save a lot of time. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungler Posted December 27, 2007 Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 Okay, I have the ultimate solution for this and it works like a charm. Spray a load of "action blaster" down the barrels - be careful though, it's really nasty stuff if you read the label on the tin - so be careful unlike me who sprayed the barrels, thought the vapour was clear from the barrels, held the barrels up to the light to look down them and see how the cleaning was coming on, and hey presto, whoosh 2 barrels of action blaster straight into the lungs, thought I was going to throw up and then pass out.... I digress..... so just do it outside. Then get your brass brush and screw it onto the first section of the cleaning rod. Now insert that first section with brass brush on, into a cordless drill. Give the barrels a good drilling and hey presto, it will shift years of crud. Don't worry about the barrels - a bit of a scrub with a stiff brass brush on a cordless drill ain't nothing to say a 1000 no'8 down the barrel etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMT Posted December 27, 2007 Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 I had the same problem with the 682 gold E and took the gun back to the shop. It turns out that all the beretta's with the optima bored barrels have a similar problem. What I do is use some 009 and leave it for half an hour then use a chamber brush. It does get rid of the crud but the barrels still look as though they have very fine scratches on them just after the chambers for about three inches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poacher Posted December 27, 2007 Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 On my beretta i have a similar problem and use the turks head brush, with a bit of bore cleaner that works much better than the wire brush for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted December 27, 2007 Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 If it really sticks -block up the ends of the barrels, by standing them upright in the sink and putting a cloth under. Pour boiling water down the barrels until full. It goes without saying, but be careful. A minute with the water in will remove just about any muck. Never failed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam Posted December 27, 2007 Report Share Posted December 27, 2007 I have the same problem with a 686 I thought it was plastic fouling from the wads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingo5 Posted December 28, 2007 Report Share Posted December 28, 2007 Hi Guys, removing the fouling is not a problem, just a matter of using the right products in the right order. I have a 682 gold E and shoot roughly 200 cartridges a month. cleaning takes roughly 20 mins max and the results are better than new. This is my cleaning routine. Products used : Hoppes Elite Bore cleaner (can't recommend this stuff enough, worth every penny spent!) Napier gun cleaner Napier gun oil Napier VP90 gun grease Bore Snake Bronze bore Brush ( best quality you can find ) 45X45mm cleaning roll ( or toilet paper ) 1.Pull the bore snake through 5-6 times each barrel, this clears 90% of the crud and leaves the barrels gleaming apart from the chamber end which is streaked with lead fouling / build up. 2. Spray Hoppes Elite into each of the barrels and let soak while you prep the rods and bronze brush ready for scrubbing. 3. Scrub each of the barrels in turn 10 times or so, then push through some 45X45mm (six sections rolled onto jag) or some toilet paper stuffed into the breech end. Black lead residue WILL COME OUT. 4. Repeat again with Napier gun cleaner sprayed liberally into each barrel, pay attention to the breech end and then clean using 45X45mm or toilet paper pushed through, the barrels should squeek nicely! If stubborn, repeat with hoppes Elite. 5.Show a wool mop Napier gun oil and pass through each barrel in turn. The barrels will shine like a mirror from breech to choke, because the hoppes elite deep cleans you can be sure no residue is left. The more you use it the quicker the cleaning process takes. 6.Remove the ejectors,clean and apply a slick of VP90 grease to metal on metal parts. Chokes are cleaned with Hoppes Elite ( Teague Ported LM ), oiled and VP90 used on the threads and tubes before re-assembly. a quick wipe down with a show of Napier gun oil on an old duster and JOB DONE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
countryman Posted December 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2007 Thankyou Gents - I'll give them a try Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EMT Posted December 28, 2007 Report Share Posted December 28, 2007 Dingo, Sorry to hijack the thread but how do you remove the ejectors on your 682. It would be a great help. Cheers EMT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingo5 Posted December 28, 2007 Report Share Posted December 28, 2007 To remove the ejectors (682) you'll notice as you look side on at one of the ejectors there is a cut out ( Breech side ) press in the ejector in until the corresponding piece on the ejector fills the cutout. When aligned twist the ejector outwards. Be careful as the ejector springs are under tension, you don't want it pinging about the room. Thats it! to replace simply reverse the process. Depending on time I clean my ejectors after every shoot, but it's not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caplock Posted December 28, 2007 Report Share Posted December 28, 2007 Scotchbrite/ green pan scrubbing tings. Soak in whatever you've got pass through the slot in a brass jag and rotate through the chamber and the 1st part of the barrel where the plastic/ lead occurs. Brings it out a treat and then boresnake the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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