activeviii Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 quick couple of questions how do you teach a dog to walk to heal. i have a little problem in hat me 16 week cocker pulls, not bad but i would rather he was at my side. im very tall and my pup is very small, i had to watch my wording there as i was going to put cocker instead of dog, . i have a problem with my back so cant get down to him. how would you go about it? second question is about his paws, his hair between hit toes is getting long, do i just leave it or do i need to keep clipping it. it is about 10mm past his pads at the moment. i dont want it getting to the stage where he needs it plaited.hehe thanks Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fallarben Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 hi phil right first things first as to working at heel spaniels of any type dont like walking at heel they would sooner be a couple of yard in front hunting put if ur aderment you want your dog to work dead to heel 1 way i learned is make the pup work on your left or right put youre lead across to your other hand so when he pulls it pulls at him right thats that one then as for the hair between his toes i prefer to clip mine to stop it getting mattered Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungler Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Got to be honest, you got Bob Hope of getting a spaniel to walk to heel. They are all figure of 8 and nose to the ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
libs Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 Try him on the gentle-leader, worked on my 2 year old lab after about an hour of effort. Also food in your hand will keep the dog by your side, and make sure you only use commands when hes following them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasons gold Posted December 13, 2008 Report Share Posted December 13, 2008 quick couple of questions how do you teach a dog to walk to heal. i have a little problem in hat me 16 week cocker pulls, not bad but i would rather he was at my side. im very tall and my pup is very small, i had to watch my wording there as i was going to put cocker instead of dog, . i have a problem with my back so cant get down to him. how would you go about it? second question is about his paws, his hair between hit toes is getting long, do i just leave it or do i need to keep clipping it. it is about 10mm past his pads at the moment. i dont want it getting to the stage where he needs it plaited.hehe thanks Phil Spaniels are about the only dog you dont want to heel to early if you want to shoot over them. My dogs are 18 months and 12 months and only now am i starting heel work with them. I don't agree with the method of food to get them to heel, as spaniels are greedy and you will probably find that they will jump up at the hand with the food in, and it's hard enough not to get them to jump up at people, as the keeper on our shoot can testify and it's usually my dog that has just been in the muddyiest puddle!. Guess i wont be drawing the hot spots come beaters day lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted December 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 if i can stop the pulling then it would be good. should i just accept it and get a longer lead? i did try the food thing but, as said, i just ended up with a dog on springs and me on my bum. should buy clippers or just scissor the hairy paws, a friends wife is a dog groomer so i would paid every 6months to a year for a full clip but i would clip my self if i knew how where and when Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasons gold Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 if i can stop the pulling then it would be good. should i just accept it and get a longer lead? i did try the food thing but, as said, i just ended up with a dog on springs and me on my bum. should buy clippers or just scissor the hairy paws, a friends wife is a dog groomer so i would paid every 6months to a year for a full clip but i would clip my self if i knew how where and when Phil just buy some clippers and clip him all over just after he has got his summer coat some time in the spring. It is well known that if a dog pulls on the lead sometimes it can be better by giving them a long lead so you are right in your thinking hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plinker Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 spaniel or not you should be able to stop him pulling on the lead, walk him on the lead as soon as he pulls give him a sharp yank and tell him heel in a firm voice,EVERY time. dedicate 5 mins a day to this he will soon get the message, he will also learn you are to be obeyed no arguments , this is a key to his training , dont expect it to happen overnight. if you let him win you will pay for it all through his training as basically he will know that he can have the better of you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 Or you could read the pinned obediance thread at the top of this section and learn how to start a puppy walking to heel in a manner that is not going to intimidate or hurt it. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plinker Posted December 14, 2008 Report Share Posted December 14, 2008 whats going to intimidate or hurt it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted December 16, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 Or you could read the pinned obediance thread at the top of this section and learn how to start a puppy walking to heel in a manner that is not going to intimidate or hurt it. NTTF opps! sorry my bad. there's me raving on how easy your writings are to follow and i didn't read that one.lol. thanks just been trying the spit heal but the pup is finding things a little confusing as i always used my right hand to treat so when i call the pup he looks at my hand for the treat and the hand comand. i even sat on the floor with a treat in my lips and put my finger to it. the pup just sniffed around my hand looking for the treat and couldnt work out what i was trying to do with him. he got confussed, when hes not sure on a comand he chases his tail around. we got that bit in the end after a few minutes here and there. i didnt want to over do it with him as he loses instrest if he's confussed. cant blame him really. just have to get him to catch the treat now. been trying for 2 days. if he is on a slip lead he heals, if he's off the lead he heals but with a collar and clip lead he pulls like a train. i'll post back in a few days as to how things are progressing. thanks for that NTTF. just a quick note about the intimidate or hurt it. I was reading and old book and the ways said basically to let the dog do as it likes for a years and then whip it into shape. so i think i know where, or at least what your saying on that. thank for your help Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deeksofdoom Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 quick couple of questions how do you teach a dog to walk to heal. i have a little problem in hat me 16 week cocker pulls, not bad but i would rather he was at my side. im very tall and my pup is very small, i had to watch my wording there as i was going to put cocker instead of dog, . i have a problem with my back so cant get down to him. how would you go about it? second question is about his paws, his hair between hit toes is getting long, do i just leave it or do i need to keep clipping it. it is about 10mm past his pads at the moment. i dont want it getting to the stage where he needs it plaited.hehe thanks Phil 16 weeks is wwwwwaaaaaayyyyyy too young to get your pup walking to heal. At this stage its still only a baby you should be just playing with it and building a relationship with it. The only thing you should be doing with it is teaching it its name and perhaps to sit. No disrespect to NTTF his pinned topics here are excelent and a very valuable training aid, however but I don't think the spitting food at the dog trick is going to work on a sixteen week old pup, for a couple of reasons (1) its too young and doesn't have the agility or co-ordination to be able to be able to catch the treat and (2) I have tried this with one of my own dogs and the only thing he became was hard mouthed, although I may have overdone it. As for his hair between his toes, forget about it. Its not going to do him any harm. You might cut one of his toes off by accident when your clipping it and then you'ld really have something to post about. When he's older walking will wear it down. Another thing while on the subject of walking the dog, if you are taking the dog out for a walk make sure it has all its injections and don't walk it for miles. 5 minutes down the road and back is all that's required, do this as many times during the day as needs be. At this stage its bones are only developing and too much walking is not good for it, also it'll be running so much around your legs you might step on it. Something that I would highly recommend is taking the dog to obedience classes, here you will be able to socialise the young dog with other animals and people. You won't train the dog at the classes, its you that will be trained to train the dog. Make sure you go to someone who has a proven track record with gundogs. Best of luck with the training don't overdo it and keep it fun. Seeing a young dog coming on is a fantastic feeling, do it right and you will have a fantastic companion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 Phil, This is the part you should be consentrating on at the moment. Week 1-2 Starting heeling is the same for both the puppy and the older dog. Start by having your pup on your left side and your lead bunched in your left hand. Hold the treat in your right hand four inches off your pups muzzle. Give the command "heel" STEP OFF ON YOUR LEFT FOOT at the same time. Pup will follow the treat forward. Use the treat to control the pups position; you want his head even with your left leg. Go forward 25 feet, pivot 180 degrees, turning on your left foot. As you come out of your pivot, toss the treat forward on the ground, give a release command..."alright".... and allow the pup to surge forward to get the treat. Praise your pup and pet him up before repeating the exercise. (using this method teaches the pup an association between the word heel and the correct position) As for teaching him to catch ....if he is use to getting the treat from your right hand and not looking up, raise your right hand to your mouth, make the sound and drop the treat he will quickly learn to watch your mouth. Now that particular exercise is used mostly with compitition dogs but there is nothing wrong with teaching it to a field dog aswell. DOD, No disrespect taken. There are many different training programs out there, and many different thoughts on training. I personnally like to start my pups at 8 weeks, as what they learn between 8 weeks and 24 weeks stays in there for life. I personnally do not like to have to untrain 6 months or a years bad habits to get the resulting good behaviour that I want. Others feel you are taking away from a puppy by teaching it manners and behaviour before then. It is my feeling that if training is kept short and fun....done in a happy and playful attitude....then all involved are ahead. I try not to knock or critisis anyone elses training programs or ideas, ( except where possible injury or trama could be an outcome)..... infact if we do not stay open and reseptive to other programs and ideas then we stagnate and our own training programs suffer. My advise to all is to read as many different training programs as you can get your hands on, study them , and then use what is relative to you and your dog. From the pictures I have seen and the reports on your dog you have done an excellent job and should be very proud. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lurcherboy Posted December 16, 2008 Report Share Posted December 16, 2008 Contact our resident hairdresser as he is grooming dogs regularly. Over to the gay essex mafia LB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 I did type a biggish reply but then the PC took a hit and blue screened me...oh i hate PC's Anyways. basically all the puppy classes like to start the puppy on the same sort of thing as NTTF has out lined in him 8 week lesson. and all of the ones i phoned up to try and get Teague into will up to fast as they all like the puppies in as soon as the jabs are are out the way. even the breeders said to start him young on the basics, like what NTTF has said, in order to give them good grounding and that the puppy learns the quickest when they have a young brain, but not to over cook thinks. but each to there own and i take all information on board and try to use it to the best i can. cockers toes do need clipping as you cant get the brush in between so get the knots and mud out. Teague is a house dog and no doubt will be spoilt by the wife and kids as they love him to bits so more than likely will reack him. a friends wife is a groomer so i guess i should ask her.hehe. Teagues concentration is not quite there yet so i cant give him a walk to heal to far as he looses it after 5 minutes. i was told that i should have started him in the house before he started to go out walking as its easier. to late, he's out. I dont want to a slip lead on him really yet either as this can cause damage to there trachea in a puppy, but then a collar and lead can as well. I have been using a stick as a walking stick. i just put it in front of him when he starts racing a head and this does get him back and then i say heal once he's in the right place. i dont hit him with it but just put it in front of him. what i notice yesterday when walking, is that cars dont help as he races forward what one passes, its like he is either thinking its a play thing a trying to run with it or just wants to stay in front. I am going to stop any walking where theres a build up of cars and just stick to the back streets and park and then once the 'Heal' is there the start to introduce cars more. would this sound right or am i thinking to much! thanks for all the input, very much needed and welcome. thanks Phil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new to the flock Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 Phil, I am sorry I just went back a re read your posting about how he will heel for a distance. This is great is he in good postion.....meaning his front right shoulder and head even with your leg. How is the treat catching going? it will pay huge dividends when you have it down. The walking stick in front is one means of checkig him into place. Another is to change direction, Turn around 180 degrees nice and smooth and without stopping. Try to go into the turn with your left leg forward, pivot on your feet, and step out of the turn on your left....this will a) keep you from stepping on the pup set you up to step out of the turn, and c) wont leave the pup behind. Once you make the turn go back a few steps, 5, 12, 3, ....just be sure to very the number each time........and then turn back in the direction you were heading. ( this is all in the training outline pinned at the top). Just be sure not to jerk or even give a hard pop on a puppy this young as it can cause dammage to his neck. That said a one finger pop on the lead is okay....it will transfer just enough to alert the puppy to a mistake. NTTF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracker Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) Whether you want a spaniel heeling at an early age or not--and I understand it's frowned upon in the UK--it's your prerogative. But NTTF is spot on with how and wherefores of doing it early, from the proverbial "***-go." This I don't agree with the method of food to get them to heel, as spaniels are greedy and you will probably find that they will jump up at the hand with the food in, and it's hard enough not to get them to jump up at people... gave me a chuckle, as an 8-week-old or 10-week-old (starting age for heeling with any gundog by my prerogative) can hardly leap and is only greedy in following its stomach as Napoleon said once about an army's travels. Also might clarify that treating (food) can be used by a method different than "spitting" it at a pup. Hold a pinch of liver or hot dog between your thumb and index finger and have it just out of the pup's reach while leaning down and walking forward at the same time. It's an athletic maneuver, righto, but if you can't pull it off, maybe Eddie the Eagle Edwards can step in. Keep the treat out of the pup's reach for 8-10 steps at a time as the pup "heels" unconsciously alongside, then give it the treat at the end of those steps with praise. Repeat this exercise two or three times, twice a day, morning and afternoon. It's soon imparted that the pup gets the reward by following along--following both at your side and the treat. Presto! Heeling learned. You'll find that heeling becomes second nature by the time the pup loses its milk teeth and the early imparting of it has no detriment to or dimunition of a spaniel's questing pattern. How would it? Why should it? That a dog able to walk a straight line would by such ability find the going difficult in sorting out its quartering? OK... MG Edited December 17, 2008 by cracker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 if all else fails get a device called a Halti, it goes over their nose and round the back of the head and when they pull it puts pressure on the nose which they hate. I've found they change the dog entirely as pulling seems to be a sign of doing what they want, this will stop the pulling straight away though it isn't a long term solution it will make your life easier in the meantime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plinker Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 just to clarify my earlier post, you should be very gentle when using your lead to stop your puppy from pulling ,this is something i would regard as totally obvious but i should have explained better, in my expierience it is very easy to form a strong bond with cockers and this should be what you use as a reward ,he will want to please you and if you work as a team you have it cracked ,once he knows you are boss ,but you are best mates it will work for you,you do not need treats in my opinion if you look at the guys who train the f/t spanials and the best working dogs you wont see any choclate drops being passed around. i would strongly recomend you follow advice from one trainer/book etc ,picking up scraps of info from different places is not the way to go. look at other mature dogs working and decide how much you want out of yours and that will give you something to aim towards. good luck,and have fun, cockers are great little dudes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 (edited) I cant bend and the puppy is a foot off the floor and im 7foot off the floor....me arms aint that long.hehe he is very very eager to learn and loves to please. his tail (docked) is like a brush cutter when he is learning. when he's not sure what he should be doing is only wags on the one side. and when he knows what he should be doing it wags like billio and then stops when he thinks he has it right so train with him for the basics it very easy. no pushing him at all as i dont what to bust him. just the heal or even the stop pulling as i am disabled with a ******** back and knees along with a few other problems but the puppy is helping me and giving me focus as well so all good. we have sit, stand, come, wait, stay, home(when we have finished what every out side and time to go in), paw(wiping feet when raining), toilet but the 'be quick' is taking a little longer as he only poo's twice a day normally, find it, up, OFF, out and pick up all to voice there are a few more but its things like find mum or dad, find chew, find lead, dindins, walkies sit, down, off to hand signal but not at any distance and the down is still only in its early days 2 pips on the whistle and he stops what every he is doing, every time, and runs and full pelt to my feet and sits in front waiting for a command. just starting to play with the one pip for down. he is 17 weeks and the wife and i are at home all day so we end up with treats in our pockets and every now and then we do a few minutes with him. also with his food bowl he his told to sit/wait but only wit for no more then 5 minutes yet. we are trying to move over to the down and wait but only started that today. the 9 weeks we have had him have been nothing but smiles and wows. we keep saying he came trained and its us that needs to be trained and find the right way so we dont have to try and undo something that was taught wrong. he is in puppy classes but the one i wanted him in has only just got spaces but as its Christmas they do a lesson before and then 8 after the new year so im happy as the one gent there is a field trailist so there's hope there. but with the heal they train as abled bodies so im at a disadvantage with it, hence the reason im asking for ways to do it. regards Phil Edited December 17, 2008 by activeviii Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasons gold Posted December 18, 2008 Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 when you were talking about the cars , i find it useful to as soon as i see a car make my dogs sit . This is useful because eventually they learn that every time they see a car that they should sit thus hope fully they will never get run over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.