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lead


tommo88
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Hi and :good:

 

I really think a few lessons down at the clay ground will help you on this one. You're asking such an open question. The parameters aren't just down to how far away the target is... You have to determine the speed, distance and how fast your swing is, and then calculate accordingly from there.

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I give them about that much and I use the cartridges in my pocket, which today were Clear Pigeon 30gm 6`s fibre wad.

 

 

Answers like this are not really very constructive.

 

As someone has already said you could do with some practice as this will help you determine how much lead you should give depending on a number of things.

 

I`d go to your local clay ground and I`m sure some of the old hands will be more than happy to give you some pointers.

 

Hope this helps and you get sorted.

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A tip for you.... Lead is measured differently by eveyone so practice on your part will help you to know the lead req on every target. I have been clay shooting lots for 20 odd years and its still sometimes hard!! Another tip re ammo, I have just discovered Gambore KENT Velocity carts they are fiber and come in 7.5'S. Very punchy and cheep!!! Good luck

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I always use BBBB. Bum, Belly, Beak, Bang. So as you swing through you see the bum then the belly then the beak then BANG! You must keep the gun moving don't stop at the beak this will give u a 'string' of shot. This is just a quick and easy way of doing it.

 

As for cartridges most people tend to have a fav. I use Kent velocity pigeon 28g 6 in my S/B/S (lightweight gun) as it gives a bit less kick then a 32g.

 

SS

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Oh yeah and use 7.5's for clays and 6's for pigeons.

 

If you're after other animals (Geese, foxes etc etc) read up on it before you do and use the right ammunition for the job, or you'll just injure the animal.

 

The BASC sells a shooting book that I religiously read as a child and have it burnt into my mind.

 

http://www.bascbookshop.com/basc/product.a...d=9781904057208

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hi enjoy ur shooting. As a note there are one or two posts on these topics and in mho it pays to do a few a PW searches before posting a new thread. Nothing personal but trying to help. PS I think the last post was titled "leed"

Edited by utectok
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> lead, how much lead should i be giving at 30 to 40 yards

 

Unless you know bird speed and distance, angles etc you can't really say but more than you think you'll need.

 

Don't get flustered by all the flapping, try to concentrate on the head and give that a fair bit of lead.

 

As an indicator, I'd previously thought I was missing from giving them too much lead but I tried

this yesterday when out with Henry_d and things started coming together much better.

 

 

 

Nial.

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> lead, how much lead should i be giving at 30 to 40 yards

 

Unless you know bird speed and distance, angles etc you can't really say but more than you think you'll need.

 

Don't get flustered by all the flapping, try to concentrate on the head and give that a fair bit of lead.

 

As an indicator, I'd previously thought I was missing from giving them too much lead but I tried

this yesterday when out with Henry_d and things started coming together much better.

 

 

 

Nial.

 

Very few shooters miss out in front, its usually the case that not enough lead has been applied, I use the Bum Belly Beak Bang, 3 week method. Only because my use of the Rifle has slowed down my swing, I deliberate so add 3 weeks lol.

It really is a matter of trial and error but you will find that more lead than you think is required, especially when a pigeon is crossing with a 50mph tailwind.

Practise, practise practise it will come right.

 

Rgds D2D

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There are only three types of lead.

 

Correct, too much, or too little.

 

You can measure the correct lead mathematically, but what any individual shooter sees in their sight picture depends on their visual perceptions and the shooting method employed. If you go by what some-one else says, for instance, give it 4 feet, and you apply that persons perception into your frame of reference, it could be vastly wrong.

 

As mentioned by others - speed, direction, and swing all alter perceived lead. Churchill / smoke trail shooting method uses gun swing to apply forward allowance and the perception is no lead at all - while the full opposite comes in an poked ambush where there is zero or little swing and you shoot the sky at a point well in front and see maximum lead.

 

The best method for beginners is "pull away". If the gun is initially moving on the flight line of the target / bird, two of the three variables are already established - speed and direction. Only the third variable, lead, is left. For consistent shooting and as a base to establish good control in other methods, start by using pull away and learn to see and control the sight picture.

 

Most "newbies" start with swing through, ie start behind and overtake the target pulling the trigger as they go. Its what is taught at "corporate do's" to give quick success, but is limiting on high potential. This gives early initial success, but a low hit ratio as consistency depends on consistent speed of swing, and perfect trigger timing. Its easy to become an average shot using this method, but very difficult to become expert.

 

Seeing, analysing, and controlling the sight picture is the key to high scoring, and for this you need an understanding of foot position, mount control, gun fit, visual pick-up, gun hold angle and position, - as well as the "lead".

 

So, if new to all this - forget about trying to measure "lead" in other persons terms - go and get some good insight lessons into technique. Lead is only a part of the game, and how its seen and applied is individual to each person!

Edited by clayman
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