MiLisCer

What scope is it? 10 clicks end to end is not very much windage adjustment at all? 3-4ft out at 30 yards for a bore sighted rifle is an awful long way out!! Mike

I'd be interested too, dates dependent.

Their ladies stuff is really high quality and hard wearing - but over priced for what it is. Mike

Do you have permission to shoot in the woods is the first and most important question!! Mike

Give them a ring make an appointment, drop in and they will print you one off - takes a few mins Mike

My change of address has just taken 8 months!! Brett stated he was about 1500 visits behind!! Mike

Sunday 20th May www.welsharms.co.uk

Take the bolt out - take the scope out of the mounts, take the mounts off the rifle. Brace the rifle in a rifle rest - (or work bench or even propped on sand bags etc) Look through the bore (Down the barrel) look at a point ideally between 50-100 yrds away (Depends where you are!) Keeping the rifle still (hence propped) put the mounts back on - I have a spirit guide to ensure the rifle is level when doing this - leave the top off the mounts and just place the scope in the mounts (no tops) - adjust the scope for eye relief first - making sure it is perfectly upright. Now drop the tops on the scope mounts and finger tighten (you can still move the scope with a bit of pressure) Ensure the scope is at the correct eye relief and upright. Look through the barrel again and confirm point of aim through it - Now look through scope and adjust the cross hairs to match what you see through the barrel - (Should have said as above I would reset your scope before doing this - simply wind it all the way to one side (It is already to the right - now wind it all the way to the left counting the clicks as you go - once there - come back to the middle but counting back half the number of clicks!! do the same for elevation) Your rifle is now "bore sighted" - hopefully you will have had enough clicks - I suspect, either a mount or the scope was twisted/not sat right. Take the rifle out and check and adjust zero accordingly. Good luck Mike

Reluctantly selling a GSP dog, he is liver and white, tall athletic wide ranging dog. He is not docked nor is he KC reg'd (He is Entire) He is pointing well and very responsive, steady around hawks/falcons. Really good on the whistle. His retrieving needs work as does his attention span. He is for sale as we have a new baby due, the new business is taking up almost all of my time and it is just not fair on him - he needs to be somewhere where he will get the work load he needs. Photos available on request - but I'll need to get him to stay still long enough! I'll let him go for what I paid for him £350 - be sad to see him go though. Mike

Can you send me payment details please - I will only be able to do one day (Probably be the Saturday, but might need to be the Sunday) but will bring a couple of Rifles and the shotgun and do both Clays and the Rifle walk about. Mike

The .50 cal club uses a few ranges - but they don't mention Diggle? http://www.fcsa.co.uk/ranges1.htm Mike

As above - on or off ticket - what have you got? (I have a spare slot)

North or South Wales - then which area - it is quite a big bit of land! South Wales - Sportsman guncentre newport (Used to be Litts) Neath Gunshop - David can be hard work but holds a lot of stock. Keans guns and tackle Kenfig Hill (Bridgend) Let us know which area and we maybe able to point out a nearby one. Mike

Paul I have just done a change of force area without a visit. If you come under Cheshire - I didn't get a visit there for my renewal, but I did when I moved in to the force area. Mike

All sold subject to collection.

Guys, these are not mine - pm for email address Good luck Mike

Posted for a friend: Complete Pigeon Decoying Kit. Fantastic condition, like new, used twice. All working. Collect only. - from Benfleet, Essex 24 plastic shell decoys and 24 stakes. 8 hide poles and bag. 2 arm pigeon carousel and 12v battery. 1 pigeon flapper, speed controller and 12v battery. 10 pigeon dead bird cradles, (new). 2 dead bird floaters. 2 cam nets, 1 netting, 1 screen. 1 gun rest. 1 large kit bag. £250 collected.

Sorry http://www.safariinscotland.com Mike Or ring Andy on 07866395975 Mike

Good luck!

My 'fowling was at Bridgewater, Langstone, The Dee and Gower coast - not quite "pits" I would say that any FT standard Lab, would do the job on the 'shore without blinking an eye! Mike

Kent, My best 'fowling companion ever was my FTCH lab bitch The biggest hindrance to a dogs marking ability is the handler!- too may people try and train a robot - let the dog get on with it, as Kent as said - yes it needs to be handled at some point, but if you keep sticking your oar in every 10 seconds it will stop the dogs natural drive. At that age, I would be doing 10/15 retrieves per session now (twice a day) one session would be on pure marking exercises if I felt my dog was lacking in this area. Another good way to teach and reinforce marking is using two dummies - put one out before you bring the dog out (car/home wherever) Sit the dog up about 50 yards from the hidden dummy (This will be a blind) - throw a seen retrieve at about 60 degrees to the hidden one - send the dog for the blind (Of course your dog needs to be doing blinds first!!) Once the blind has been picked, send the dog for the seen/marked retrieve - this is a good way to develop marking too, as well as control and blind work. Mike

What breed is it? How old is it? What level is it trained too? I've done a session with a Lab tonight (one I intend to trial next season), he is 13 months old and has done about 30 retrieves tonight, ranging from 100-150 yards, with splits, unseens and distractions - he would do ten times that if I let him. Mike

Is the bitch yours? There has been plenty of good advise on here already and the guide of days 11 and 13 is a really good one, but some bitches are different, I've had GWPs stand on day 5 and then not stand on day 6 - but be in pup, on the other hand we have a lab bitch who is not ready until day 19. The best way to find out is to take the bitch to the vet on or around day 7 and ask for a progesterone test, depending on your vet and how often they do them, they will either do the analyse in house or send it off - our vet will let us know in about 30 mins, it may need doing more than once to get an accurate indication, but it will really help with a first time bitch and stud dog. Ideally for a stud's first time we would generally try to use an experienced bitch, who knows the game and will not put the dog off - two first timers is never easy! It may help to have the bitch on a lead and hold her head, to stop her snapping at the dog and putting him off, plus if/when you do get a tie, it will be easier to control the bitch.. Once tied, help the dog to turn around so they are "bum to bum" - by lifting on of his front legs over the bitch's back, so they are now both on the same side, then do the same with a bag leg so that they are now facing in opposite directions - much easier if there are two of you to control a dog each. Keep them calm and stood up for the duration of the tie. Mike

Marking is a skill that some are better than others at, but it is still a skill you teach a dog. Build up the distance and a dogs confidence - use shortish cover at first and simple 40-50 yard single retrieves, adding a second over time, will teach the dog to "mark" and "memorise" that mark - a very easy skill to improve in any dog. If you want a more in depth explanation, let me know and I'll write something out for you when I get 20 minutes. Mike

All "working" dog food is VAT free - there is only VAT on pet foods - so any labelled working etc are VAT free. Dr J's is a decent food, like all foods, it won't suit all dogs. Mike