Hammergun

They are a serious agricultural pest. The idea of giving them a closed season when they are at their most destructive I find, quite frankly, ludicrous.

What recipes have you got? I find hare is much improved if you soak it in milk for a couple of days before cooking it.

Fortunately for him, I don't think the Americans use that expression!

The thing with hens..... If you ever get tired of them, you can always eat them!

Marans are hardy ant they are what I have. Lay nice brown eggs. Welsummers are hardy but don't lay as well. Sussex Light or Rhode Island Red make good hardy hens too.

If you don't need an ejector, check out English side-by-sides as there are some great deals on BLNEs at the moment.

No, never found any. Fingers crossed - OK so far. The weather has not been as wet as last year, and I have started using Vikon if thats what you call it - a red powder you dissolve in water and rinse their legs in when you get back. Seems to have solved the problem so far. After the farrier let the fluid out, I bathed it and dressed in poultice. I took him to the vets the day afterwards for a shot, and fortunately careful dressing seems to have sorted it (I hope). He was shod again last Thursday and was sound all Saturday.

Assuming your stock is Walnut.......... Take your stock off the metalwork. Be careful not to take too much offf where the wood is flush with the metal or the metal will end up standing proud when you have finished. I prefer aluminium oxide cloth to paper as it is more flexible and much easier to use on uneven surfaces without changing the features of the wood. You can tear it into strips or squares to get to those difficult places. It is worth spending the extra to get a good finish. Start off with a fairly coarse grade cloth (120 - 180 grade) to remove the remains of the previous finish. Once you have taken the marks out and the last trace of lacquer has gone, use a finer grade (240) until the marks from the coarser grade have gone, then use a finer grade, then finer again (320). Wet the stock, allow to dry and rub down. Repeat this several times until the water will not raise the grain anymore. Finish off with medium-fine steel wool (00), then progress to fine(000). There should be no sanding marks left on the wood. If sanding marks remain, they will show up in the finish as they absorb the colour. Apply a coat of grain sealer, rub down with fine wire wool, and repeat until the surface feels smooth. Rub Oil of Alkanet into the stock, leave 12 hours and repeat as often as you want until the desired colour is obtained. Now the careful part. Either using stock oil or a homemade blend, put a little on a patch and rub well into the stock. To begin with, it will soak quite a lot up. Wipe of any excess and leave to dry. before it is hard, buff well with a lint-free cloth (part of an old shirt will be OK). Some of the old-time gunmakers used to use the palm of their hand to get the smooth fiish. Apply more oil and repeat. At this stage, it is important not to have any "wet" patches on the woodwork after applying the oil or the finish will go blotchy. Repeat the process until you are satisfied. After each buffing, you will begin to notice a difference. It will take many coats before it is finshed, and you must be patient. Finally, leave it a few weeks to harden. You can always put further coats on later if you need. If at any stage you find drips, these can be carefully removed with wire wool.

No, it was above Masham. The Hambleton hills are in the distance.

A photo I took on Saturday with the West of Yore. Just about captures the atmosphere of the day. "Going Home"

Probably blend of boiled linseed oil, tung oil and oil of alkanet - That's what I use. Wouldn't use polyeurathane varnish - tends to get affected by oils and cleaners. French polish is too easily scratched and affected by the wet. Hard acrylic or a traditional oil-based (i.e. not synthetic) yacht varnish would be better.

Only have experience in oiled stocks. My guess is that it is not all that old. Could be an acrylic lacquer -they are pretty durable. I have a 9mm garden gun and the stock on that is an oil-based lacquer. Shellac stock polish is likely to have some linseed oil content in it for durability.

9.47 pm The bar is open!

I take it you never seen that photo of the man with a massive growth where his nose was once. Nose and mouth cancer was once a common illness amongst miners as they could only sniff and chew as it was dangerous to light up. Worse than fags - just like shoving poison up your nose. Damages your sense of smell too. Stick to the Whisky YP, and Red - dont listen to him, he's talking out his a**e!

David Browns are rustbuckets!!! Aviod like the plague!! Have a look at the smaller blue Fords. They are often very reasonably priced and not too hard to maintain

Red - I used to be a proof reader....... Shall I? Shan't I? Shall I? Shan't I? Go on, you tell me; Let me know.

Anyone in tonight?

There's one at Wetherby who is supposed to be quite good. I have all mine done by Adrian Johnstone in Darlington, who is good and very reasonably priced.

Kits are just designed to touch up scratches. If you want a really good job, you need to dismantle your gun and take the parts in to a gunsmith who does proper blueing.

Anyone got any advice on rabbit snaring, such as how and where to place snares etc. Thanks

yes, but you won't find it searching under "pidgeon". (no offence mate)

B) :yp:

"Sporting Birds of the British Isles" by Brian P Martin and Rodger McPhail, published by David and Charles (think its still in print) Very good book

Gun safety is vitally important for youngsters. Any shooting accident is one too many.

One boy is dead, another boy's life is ruined, two families are devastated and everyone is shocked and saddened. My heart goes out to those affected. Rest in peace now.