welshwarrior

You unscrew the sling stud with that adaptor and screw it in with one of the provided screws either wood or machine threaded.

I run Blaser carbon fibre sticks for most of my shooting which like all stick are a compromise but these suit my needs the best. I want a viperflex style cradle head to work on a shooting position theory stuff I have so only for simple range work and not worth £250 yet. I expect fitting up etc and that’s a simple task I can do years ago I would have made up the parts from alloy on the lathe and mill but not a fast task.

Here’s the link to the parts https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3620213/files#google_vignette

Thanks. Latest think I’ve seen is the joints for some quad sticks do you have his details I could probably do without another ‘hobby!’

Anyone offer advice I’ve found a few things over the years whilst surfing the web to see if someone else has solved an issue and found a few 3D printer files that do what I want but can not find people selling that item. So that got me thinking should I get a 3D printer if so what is the set cost and are they easy to operate, or is there somewhere that prints other people’s files out as one offs. Any one got experience or advice?

Stunning always in awe of stick makers, mine are always basic and sticks not straightened. I can bend a gun stock in most directions but just can’t straighten sticks!

Great job well done.

No probs drop me a pm if you get stuck

Rubbing not running the auto miscorrect. when you apply the oil after about an hour it goes slightly tacky at this point you need to rub up the stock. There are various methods depending on your technique. If let the oil go to hard it’s won’t harden off and leaves a tacky mess in time, by rubbing TS95 hard into the oil with the palm of the hand you can safe the oil finish.

Not tried CCL but have played with Trade Secret and Napier London Stock oil both ok just prefer my own blend but both would do the job. TS95 is a great product and can save you if you let the oil go to far before running up.

No more alkanet then just plain stock oil coats will have less effect on colour then with each coat.

Ok you can lighten the tone a bit using Oxalic Acid, the light areas are quite honey coloured in that stock to then redden them up more you’ll need to colour it. Each stock is different and there is no one size fits all, to get to similar to the bottom stock potassium pomanginate may be the answer, not a solution I like to use. Each piece of walnut is individual, I like to work with the walnut to show it to its best natural state as opposed to going at set colours, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Sealing and filling the grain with water slurry the whole stock is still porous so absorbs the colour. If you use a shellac based sealer (sanding sealer etc) contains hardeners and reduces the porosity of the wood so changes the colouration effect.

Water normally.

depending on the wood either pure talc or pumic