Deer Man

Never used the bladetech. Only pull the blade and you must keep a constant angle. I use a diamond stone and a steel to sharpen my knifes except my Cutco wich is gauranteed for life and you just send it back if you think it is blunt!

Very intresting, a FMJ for plinking! Whats the cost cause if its owt like V Max and HP its getting very hard to get at the moment!

Now try the 17hmr FMJ for comparison, thats if you can hold of them Jonno Do you mean the 20grn Hollow points?

One of My dogs. Shes the one with the collar on!

No problems with my triger! its an Anschutz! This article makes a good read, http://www.varmintal.com/17hmr.htm Any thoughts?

Be sparing with your ammo boys and girls! There seems to be a major problem importing from America! Tim Hannam will only sell 1000 to dealers! I use both the V Max and 20grn, prefer the 17grn V Max certainly happy slaps the head shot rabbits!

Not having a go M8 but the hole has to be square with both handle and shank,then if the pith is a bit fragile the hard metal will strip it out but a flexible piece of wood inserted into it will be OK. If you have the kit to cut and drill 2 pieces of a walking stick perfectly square rather than drill one and fit the male to it then I say do it I don`t have that facility. Fair point i suppose. What glue do you use?

I think you can buy double ended screws specifically for thi purpose with reverse threads on one end.. It takes the guess work out as you only have to cut the antler and stick square for it to match.

Are Hanovarians used for wildfowling? I know they are excellent deer dogs as are the smaller Bavarian Mountain hound. Wouldnt mind importing a bavarian!

Deer Man .243 Win 80 Grain MUZZEL VELOCITY 3350 :unsure: MUZZEL ENERGY 1993 I think someone has got something wrong don't you Next you'll be telling Me its closed season on Muntjac Doe's. Call yourself Deer Man , Question Me on my Ammo & you dont know. The Win X in .243 is a common round so you should know the Ballistics of Winchester rounds used for Deer. Do you Cull/Manage or even stalk Deer ? PELTMAN Oh dear Pelt Man (no pun intended) it would seem ive rattled your cage! As I said in my original post this sign "?" is a question mark. That means it was a question. Without consulting my reloading manuals I was not sure because nobody I know would use an 80grain bullet on deer only fox. I suggest If you are reloading and producing 3350 fps that it is almost certainly at maximum load, according to my manuals. Hodgson can load up to 3450fps! I suppose I am very lucky as I have access to 5 species of deer, Red Fallow, Sika, Roe and Muntjac, the minimum bullet I have seen one of my collegues use is a 95 grain and only on the smaller species. Four of those species are on one area! I agrre the .243 is a common caliber and a capable deer round but I would advocate a minimum of 100 grain for deer only. This is of coures personel preference but I feel anything lighter is to fragile! I do not agree that .22 centerfire should be legal for the smaller species, it opens a can of worms not only from a poaching point but from a humane point!

True the more "enegy" a bullet has on inpact could help compensate for a poor placement of shot but don't be fooled by Magnum sized rounds. More people shoot poorley due to flinching with large calibers and therfore pull the shot badly. A smaller caliber is often enough to deliver leathel hydrostatick shock to the vital organs and nervous system! Shot placment is vital, a fox will die a miserable death if you hit the jaw with a 22-250 or a 375H&H! I agree totaly! never place anything on or rest the barrel! This totaly disturbs the harmonics of the barrel. The barrel moves up and down in a wave like motion when the bullet travels up it and anything which stops this will alter the zero.

Hubertus, now that you mention it I can now see it is not a loden coat and it looks like a jacket tied around the waist? What dog do you use?

So whats new then?

Peltman, 80 grain in . 243 not sure that meets the requirment 1700ft Lb?

I would love to splash out on these! http://cgi.ebay.com/LYMAN-New-1200-DPS-ll-...oQQcmdZViewItem Theses are excellent with a built in powder trickler! Beats my ancient set of Lee scales

Nice photos! Whats the Loden coat? Like the high seat, do you cut your rides? Is that a S&B or a Carl Zies

This site sells every thing you need. http://www.sausagemaking.org/acatalog/Casings.html

Be carefull when feeding Ferrets or Hawks with anything you have shot with a shotgun! There is a real risk over time of lead poisonong. A friend of mine imported a Gos Hawk from Germany which had been fed pheasant. It died several weeks after leaving Germany when my mate had only fed bunnies which I had shot with a .22RF. The vet said the pheasants must have been fed whole and contained lead!

Fpr whistles you could use Muntjac, for walking sticks you could use Roe or if you are going to carve it then you could use Red or Sika.

What are you using them for? it may be species specific?

NTTF, I have a couple of dogs which I use for deer, a German Wirehaired Pointer (deutsch drathaar) and a Hungarian Vizsla. I dont have a problem with tangles as i use a specialist tracking collar which has re-enforced inserts. If the dog pulls hard the pressure is not on the throat but the back of the neck. I also use a specialist tracking lead wich buckles to the collar and can not come undone if it rubs against foilage, trees etc. There is an excellent product in the states called permatrack, very hard wearing and still supple. I try to encourage dogs to track slowly and use the nose more eficiently as apposed to pulling like mad and penduliming across the trail and finding by chance. Try giving the dog more line and do not run it with a not in, allow the dog to go through cover whilst you walk around it and pick up the line at the other side. I had a teckle, great little dogs! A pocket rocket with attitude! Even a meat inspector will have some trouble getting fresh blood but pigs blood should be ok but OX blood will probably be a no no!

when ever i store blood for training i add salt to it as soon as i get it as this will also stop the blood congealing If you sive the blood when its fresh and remove all the fibrin which is what makes it clot you will stop this problem. Push all the clots through a fine sive. Adding salt or chemicals gives a false taint to the blood. I always start to train my dogs by using a piece of liver with a very short track into wind. I am trying to asociate the tracking collar with the pleasure of tracking and the reward at the end. Once the collar gets a positive response on sight I then change direction with the wind behind me. If you make the tracks to easy and too often the dog will get bored very easy and just go through the motions to please you and not track out of desire. I would only reccomend 1 or 2 tracks a week, it is hard work for a dog! Perhaps this explains my way of thinking? Dogs For Deer Blood Tracking When can I start blood work? Blood work can start any time after 20 weeks although some people start a little earlier with soup trails to the dinner bowl. I normally wait till the dog is at least 20 weeks as this is a demanding exercise and you can easily bore a pup and put it off tracking all together. Basic Equipment A good wide collar (at least 2 "). A Specialist tracking collar is best. A strong tracking line ( 30' ) which can not unfasten from the collar! Leather or synthetic is a personnel choice. The Innotek Pro Beeper (see product review) or Innotek 1600 Command series Track N Train. You can use a falconers hawk bell or just use the Tracking collar to associate the collar with blood work. 1 Gallon of blood, Preferably from a deer but pigs blood is just as good. Since BSE OX blood is quite difficult to obtain. There is no need to add any salt as long as you sieve it through muslin cloth to remove all the fibrin. Fibrin is what makes the blood clot. Squeeze all the clots through the muslin at least twice. The blood left should be quite thin with no clots! Place the blood in suitable plastic drinks bottles and freeze until required. A gardeners plastic spray bottle (it must be capable of creating a jet of blood) An old washing bag (the ones used to put your tablets in the washing machine) several 18" garden canes A piece of cured deer skin (you could use a green towel) A 6' length of twine (nylon can be washed) and your stalking stick Getting stared A hungry dog will work best here, delay his meal until after the tracking session, this is the only time I use food as a reward! I believe you must make the first few tracking sessions short and easy, we want the dog to learn that tracking equals food. I do not use blood to get a dog started I use a piece of liver. Use a training area separate from the exercise area, the grass should be nice and short. Chose an open area with the wind blowing into your face. Scuff up a 2' area of grass with your boot. Place the liver in the washing bag and attach one end of the twine to the bag the other to the stalking stick. At this point the dog should be in the car and not be able to see the proceedings, a clever dog will soon learn to cheat and try to run to the end for the reward! Place a few scraps of liver and drag the bag of liver in the scuffed area then extend the stick at arms length and walk into the wind slowly for 30 meters. Place the skin or towel at the end with more liver scraps. Remove the liver bag and walk away at 90 degrees to the trail. Wait about 20 minutes before getting the dog. Most of your foot sent should have blow away but it is not important at this early stage. Walk the dog in on the slip lead to about 10 meters away from the start and stop. make the dog sit if possible but do not force the issue this early. If Fido wont stay tie him to a ground stake so he cant run on. Leave the dog on the drop and walk up to the scuffed area, bend down and take interest in the general area. you bending down will generate interest in the dog and he may try to run to you. Go back to Fido, place the tracking collar and line, electric or leather on the dog and walk him up to the scuffed area. Run the line under the foreleg. This takes pressure of the throat and forces the head down. Make him lie if taught or just sit. Do not let him go anywhere for at least 2 minutes. This is important as while Fido is lying down he has the scent and food right there under his nose and he should take interest! Some dogs get very excited and others almost need a little geeing up! Bend down to the dog and click your fingers around the scuffed area and give your command to track, where's the deer or whatever you decide. Stick to the same command from now on and don't use fetch! this will cause problems if you use the same command for retrieving. Let fido start to track, if he goes of like a whippet stand still, only pay out a small amount of line, we want him to track slowly with his nose down. Has soon has his nose is down and on the trail let him go forward, only let him go forward when on the trail. He may swing backwards and forwards on a pendulum across the trail, only go forward when he is on the trail. Because the wind is in our face the scent should blow directly towards us and make it easy for the dog to follow. Most dogs will have no problems and go straight up the line to the end. When you reach the end make a great fuss of the dog, tell him what a good dog he is, sit down with him and let him eat a good chunk of the liver from the bag. Do not let him pick up the skin/ towel. Fido should now feel confident, he has started to learn, Tracking = Reward. After he has eaten the liver place him back on the slip lead and walk away from the area. Blood tracking has finished for today. Do not be tempted to let him play in the area or try it again. You can't force a dog to track! a simple track is all that we want at the moment. Lay another simple track in 3 or 4 days, A maximum of 2 a week! Soon he will become excited with the sight of the tracking collar or bells. We are now wining, Fido wants to track, it is time to lengthen the track, still into wind. You can now let him have more line. When Fido is up to 100/150 meters we can introduce turns. A right angle turn for about 50 meters. Mark the turn with a garden cane. At the turn Fido may be confused and start to pendulum, again only let him go when he is on the trail. If he is totally lost make him sit at the point of the turn wait 2 minutes and start him off again. Do not let him air scent for the turn. Once he has done a few of these turns its time to lay the tracks down wind. Go back to short lengths, he will know have to work hard to follow the trail as the scent is blowing away from him. Increase the standing time to 3 hours, then next increase the distance. Tracking should only take place once a week now. Go back to short lengths but this time only place the bag on the ground every 3 feet. This is where the garden spray comes in, squirt a direct jet of blood not a mist into the same spot as the liver bag. You have now introduced blood to the track. From now on only use blood, and again increase the length and time of the track. Vary the terrain for the track now and increase the standing time. It is easy to go from 3 to 6 to 12 to 24 hours. Introducing the deer as with all introductions of game it must be done with cold game. The smell of hot blood can over excite a dog and easily cause distractions in the training programme. This is where the deer skin or towel which we have been using so far comes in. Lay your trail as normal, this time leave the cold deer with the towel or skin draped over the beast. Fido wont mind if the deer has already been grollached!. After a few tracks you can dispense with the skin or towel. Do not let fido mouth the deer, if he does encourage him to only grab the neck and not anything else. My current dog is having problems grasping the fact that the haunch is for me to eat and not her! You don't know what your dog is going to do with his first real track. If the ground work as been sound there should be no problems. I like to feed my dogs bits of offal but I insist they sit and wait for me to feed them and not to help themselves! Most dogs love to track, remember start easy and work up. If you then make things to easy the dog will get bored and lose interest. Once the routine is in place dogs like to work hard for the treat and may have a great amount of excitement. You must control this and have the dog work slowly and methodically! A drop of blood is easily missed by a dog which thinks it is coursing hares. Good luck! You can see the Innotek Track N Train and the BP Pro Beeper at http://sportdog.innotek.net/ The U.K. distributor is Dr Robert Gould robgould@innotek-uk.fsnet.co.uk Please mention Deer-uk in your e-mail. Paul Smith

Take a look at this thread. http://www.####.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=188 Basic preservation easy, to make a quality hide takes work! Ok, first mistake on the forum! The link isnt hard to find its on another forum for pigeon shooting! I notice a few names from other forums including wildfowling. Small world or is it a small community which we are in?