gamebag

Seriously straight up bolta thats what I was always told & on more than one ocassion i was told when i went to get a barrel cleaning kit not to waist my cash on usless rubbish. Im seriosly glad that this site exists because with out it id be having to get a new rifle quicker due to dodgy maintenence on my be half because of listening to the advice of so called more expierience shooters.

whoa they certainly have alot of cheap air rifle stocks that even I would be intrested in if they wernt based state side The problems of being in the uk (sigh) now if they eported that would be a different matter.

I have been doing a little thinking about this caliber lark & i think imho that untill you try it dont knock it lol

I tend to use cross man accupels but as 1 of 5 so rightly put it find what suits your gun the best & stick to the blighters

Erm call me a dunce put a hat on my head & stand me in the corner. :*) :*) :*) :*) But i was always told that you dont need to clean the in side of the barrel of an air rifle as this can cause your zero to be thrown out. This was what I was taught that all you needed to keep clean was the out side of the rifle & keep the spring regularly oiled.

I was started off at 10 by my uncle I then learned to shoot small bore & centifre at 13 with the cadets. That was about 15 years ago now in this day & age I dont know what woud be classed as socialy acceptable & what would be seen as acceptable in the eyes of the law.

A duplex reticle is simple a normal cross hair like this + lol & a mil dot looks like a duplex reticle but with dots covering the length & bredth of the cross hair

Fliping eck 1 of 5 erm not wishing to seem dense or any thing but is their some sort of key or easier way to eplain this table to me this as my small adled brain :*) seems very confused lol Ok red so what is your preferance of cross hair.

So then it would help to get a scope with an adjustable objective lense then to asist in the use of using the mill dots.

so what roughly is the value of each dot and line then on a mill dot reticle?

Hey cranners do you still do the unanwserd post thing? (whoo over a tonne )

I keep seeing all these scopes with mill dot cross hairs & I wonder are they any better than the traditional duplex. I have always used the duplex reticle style scopes with springer air rifle & i have had no problems with them what so ever!. But if i ever get round to buying a new rifle i might be tempted to get one (which will sadly be quite a while as theire is no where round where i live that i can shot.). So what do you lot prefer & do you think it's worth forking out that little extra for a mill dot scope do they work better than a duplex cross hair or should i stick with the duplex?

hi engineer i used to use the promethius Sn2s in my HW80 they go just sweet with it although i wouldnt recomend them for in close stuff like pigeons in a barn i had one Go clean through a pigeon & put a hole through some corrigated plastic :*) luckily it didnt smash so the farmer was ok with it seriously embarissing :*)

Alas it depends on the size of your pocket book Have a look at simmons scopes i think the 8 point 4-12x 42 and the 1.5-5x32 might (dont quote me on that) do you and the hawke varmit II scopes might be worth a look they are expensive but they all come with paralex adjustment that helps with the problem also they are mill dot reticle which will help you out with hold over hold under. The simmons 8 point scopes are all duplex reticles

It might be a good idear at first not to mess once you have zeroed your scope in but over time teach your self how to read the scopes point of impact when its zoomed in to greater magnification to do this just get your self a big card board box set out to your initial zeroing distance fire 5 pellets on the zoom you first zeroed your scope to then zoom up to the next number up from your original magnification 6-7 then fire another 5 pellets you should see a slight if not greater differance in your group it should be higher thatn your first group work your way up each zoom setting firing 5 pellet groups. The out come should be each group will be higher than the last take a standerd 12inch ruler & measure the distance between your zero group and your final group this is much roughly you sould aim under practice on another carboard box at the same distance but this time in stead of aiming for the center of the box aim about what your measurment was between you first zeroed group & your last group these should then hit roughly center. Right on most scopes that have AO if you zoom in your picture it will be out of foucus the AO ring will bring the picture in to foucus for you.

Ok right their are 2 3-9x40 scopes in that section so im going to put forward my thoughts for both 1) If its the sport hd 3-9x40 when you zeroed the scope in im guessing you started on a low magnification like mabey 6x mag on some scopes once you zero on a whatever magnification from your initial zero (6x mag) the you zoom in more the picture becomes closer on some scopes this throws the cross hairs out & causes the shot to go high or low depending on your inital zero more expensive scopes are modified to cancel this effect out how they do this i dont know (i think its something to do with either the focus ring or paralex) so my advice for this is once you zero your scope at what ever magnification you want stay at this magnification & you should do fine. 2) If its the sport hd 3-9x40AO then when you zoom your scope in you should adjust the front adjective paralex bell on the sight till your picture is clear. (this is also a crude form of range finding since the range should be marked on the adjective bell) This will have a marked affect on your zero when its adjusted it should cancel out the magnification zero problem that I mentiond with the normal 3-9x40 sport hd Have you secured your base mounts of your scope firmly enough? If not you may be getting whats termed as scope creep where the mounts gradualy creep backwards along the reciever of the gun this is not often seen by your self but will have a marked effect on your guns zero but only slightly over time this can lead to your zero going completly out the window. another way to combat mount creep is to get scope mounts that have an arrestor stud in the base most air rifles have little holes in the back of the reciever thats where you should place the mounts arrestor stud this will eliminate the scope creep. sorry its a little long winded but i hope it helps you out. If some one can explain the scope thing better or add more on the subject please do it would be of great help to me as well as to help or any one else understand the problem better CHEERS!!!!

ak just out of curiosity what hawk 3-9x40 scope is it? Does it have parralex adjustment on it? Are you altering the magnification each time you get further & further away?. when you get back to me with the anwsers i can form some conclusions I have one or two going around in my head but just need you to confirm one or two things

Used to shoot a HW 80 with 3 types of pellet 1)Bisley pest control for ratting squrelling & barn work 2) crossman accupells bunnies & pigeon 3) sn2s bunnies & pigeon. The funny thing was that the accupells and the sn2s needed no adjustment on the zero while i could shot the B.P.C with minimum diference to the zero for the sn2s and accupells go figure.

d.e.d if i could have found a decent source of .20 then no wouldnt have changed to .22 i would have definatly changed the rifle though lol!!! you can only pump a sheridan so many times a day before you get completly worn out still it did help with building the old arm muscles lol. The only good advantage with that rifle was that i could vary the power of the rifle with the amount of pumps so it was a good ratting rifle as well as an excelent tool for fur & feather. I think that if & when I move back to Telford with the GF & i could find 1) a cheap decent rifle in .20 and 2) I could find a decent yet not to expensive place that was close by that sold .20 & wold not make me have to buy in by the case then i would purchase another .20 still the question would then turn to which .20 to buy lol

I have had & witnesed problems with .177 my self in regards to head shots on rabbits i used to own a hw 77k in .177 which i could drop pigeons with head & side on C.O.M. shots with ease but when i was rabbit i must admit i had a few rabbits not die straight away from a head shot & they made it to their burrow & died in their much to my distress. I then swiched to a sheridan .20 prohunter rifle & the problems with head shots stoped the only problem then was getting a regular ammo supply for it i had to buy it in by the case which was rather costly for me so after a few years of using the .20 i sold it because it was to much hassel. I then brought a hw80 in .22 & have had no problems with .22 for pigeon or rabbit. As regards for head shots it should in all practical & theory kill quarry out right if you hit the brain in the right part but if you miss & hit a part of the brain that is non essential you could only injur your quarry, with a .177 pellet its size means less of a chance to hit the all inportant area of the brain when the pellet expands on contact, with a .22 you stand more of a chance of hitting both parts of the brain that you want due to the size that the pellet expands to almost twice the size of a .177 (please correct me if im wrong on that thanks.)

Although i would buy a .22 cal rifle i would buy a .20 if i could get hold of the ammo alot easier i used to own a sheridan pro hunter pump up in .20 . i gave my sheridan up because i was having to buy pellets in by the case not by the tin so it was rather costly The .20 flies as flat as the .177 & hits just as hard if not harder than the .22 and i always used to get a better group with the .20 pellets than my m8 who was .22 & also could take longer ranged shots with confidence.

whoa roblade looks like you got some serious aggression problems m8 :( lol!!! but i have got to admit thats sound advice you have given mr ak47 thats the way i was tought how to zero and practice hold over & under with a rifle & scope but we used carboard box's and used enlargend (is that how you spell it :*) ) targets so you could guestimate and then measure drop for consistancey in practice

NOOOOOOOO not the phonetic alphabet red!! dear god i had enough of that when i was with the A.C.F. (Army Cadets) & was forced to attend a days signals course which i failed abismaly. I must admit that im 25 & dyslexic. but even i have problems trying to translate all this text malarkey & when im reading a post thats got a few that even i cant sus out i get my missus to have a look she is 3 years my senior & she knows alot more than i do about this so called text speech.

To be honest about the lazer thing I think its 1) each to their own the only way your going to find out is if you try a couple of lazers out. Thing is which to go for do you go for a cheap one like the cross man lazer or do you go for an expensive one like the beam shot & 2) How you mount the little dear do you go for an under the barrel mount or do you go for mounting the lazer on your scope. Each will have their own pros & cons such as will an under the barrel mount be easy to knock, which will throw the zero or will a scope mounting affect the zeroing of the lazer if you have an over size objective lense (erm thats right isnt it objective is the big end of the scope?) will it reflect the lazer if you try & zero it for close ranges. I think that a lazer in my own opinion might be a good idea for close range/fast moving vermin that like to stop & start move like ratty & could be handy for bunnies if your closer than your rifles zero thing is though what would be an ideal zeroing range for a lazer any ideas any 1? :*)

I did mine years a go but hey what the heck good luck to ya red & any one else who is taking their exams