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Browning

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Everything posted by Browning

  1. Pin, DTL really requires more choke than 1/4 and 1/2. By the time you get that second barrel off the bird is a long way out. The majority of DTL shooters use 3/4 and Full, with some going for Full and Extra Full to get consistent patterns at that distance.
  2. Browning

    insect bites

    Apparently it's not the actual insect bite that makes you itch. Your body produces histamine to fight against the infection that the insect bite produces, and this is what causes the itching. Taking any of the antihistamine products (Piriton etc) should help to reduce ir stop the itching.
  3. Stuart, I have the Lansky system, and through trial and error I now always finish with the smoothest stone. This works well on my Buck knives, and will keep an edge extremely well.
  4. Here's another plus vote for the T3 in .243, mine has a T8 mod and Swaro 2.5-10 x 40 on it and it really is a top piece of kit! I liked the rifle so much I went out and bought the T3 in .270 which I use for Fallow and Red.
  5. £3 members, £4 non-members, for a round of 25 at our club, independant of wether it's ESP, Skeet , Sportrap or DTL.
  6. Sammyboy, I had a Remington VSSF for 4 years, but in .22-250 not .223, and couldn't fault it for accuracy. I found the bolt a little "clunky", but other than that a good reliable piece of kit.
  7. Browning

    Mitsibushi L200

    I've never found the turning circle a problem
  8. Getting there Frank AndyCM - The H414 just wouldn't perform with 100gn bullets with either standard or magnum primers. This had me scratching my head as it puts out outstanding groups with 75gn Vmax. The actual powder I ended up with (mry716 suggestion) was H4831sc, which I already use in the .270.
  9. I've spent a few weeks, and torn out lots of hair, in working up a decent 100gn SP load for the .243, and 130gn SP load for the .270. After much experimenting with different powder and primer combinations, last night it all came together ! These are 3 shot groups at 150 yards, taken off the bipod, resting on the bonnet of the truck. The .270 is sub 7/8" and the .243 is sub 1/2". I guess the .270 can be tweaked a little but it's getting there. Many thanks to mry716 for his help with this
  10. Browning

    Mitsibushi L200

    Tam, I've had my L200 since new, for about 18 months now. Fuel consumption is about the same as my mates Rangers and Navaras. For around town, steady driving, I'm getting on average 380 miles to the tank (£55 to fill it). Motorway driving at anything over 70MPH and you will see consumption drop to around 300 miles to the tank. Off road it will go anywhere......as long as you have decent off road tyres. Some excellent deals on the old models around at the moment....which in my opinion looks much better than the new "hairdressers" model.
  11. Gibby, I went through this last year. Initially I was going to get rid of my .243 and replace it with a 6.5x55. (A "one rifle does all") But I get on with the .243 so well I decided to keep it for the smaller stuff, and add another caliber that I would use for Fallow/Reds. I decided on a .270, as I've shot Reds with my pals .270 on many occasions, and have lots of confidence in the caliber. Also, it is the caliber of choice for Reds for all the professional Stalkers/Guides that I know. (Note! Not ALL professional Stalkers/Guides......Just the half dozen that I know)
  12. Good advice mry716. It just kinda threw me as the 75gn Vmax are shooting extremely well using the same powder/primer combination. However, I will take your advice and try to get hold of some Federal Benchrest Magnums today.
  13. I've been trying to work up a 100gn SP load for my T3 .243. I bought a box of Hornady 100gn BTSP Interlock and loaded up 3 rounds of each, in 1/2 grain increments from 37gn to 41gn, using H414 and Federal 210 primers. I set the overall length to 0.02" off the lands, which is where I usually start from. Went up to the farm last night and.......absolutely rubbish! It's by far the worst grouping I've ever experienced, nothing under 2.5". I did everything right, letting the barrel cool down between groups, perfect rest, took my time etc etc. I began thinking it must be the rifle/scope, so at the end I put 3 rounds of my proven foxing round, 75gn Vmax through it......and it clover leafed as usual. Anyone else had any bad/good experiences with Hornady SP bullets? Or could it simply be that my rifle doesn't like this particular bullet?
  14. missedagainstan, Similar experience to my variation for .270 last year, Thames Valley are the business Get yourself down to Adenbourne Fieldsports in Witney, those boys are up for doing some great deals.
  15. Nick.... ....I just bought some Lapua brass in .243 Unfortunately Lapua don't make .270 cases so I'm using Remington at the moment. Miffy... ....I went through exactly the same process, but found that 46gn of H414 behind the 75gn Vmax gave me most consistent groups, so I've settled for that load. This was thru the T3 with Federal brass.
  16. G.M.....My thoughts exactly I tend to length check every time I load a case, and the .243 and .270 usually require a trim after two loads. I only usually re-load them four times anyway before I trash them, so haven't felt the need for a full length re-size after the first time.
  17. Just come back from my local gunsmith where a few of us had a lengthy discussion on case re-sizing. Personally I always re-size new cases fully, but once fired I back off on the sizing die and just re-size the neck. My thought process being that the fired case is already formed to my chamber, so why re-size the whole thing. One guy in the shop, who is supposed to be an extremely experienced and knowledgeable rifle man, was adamant that you should always full length re-size your cases......but couldn't explain why! I reckon all that will do is place added stress on the brass and therefore reduce the life of the case. What do you experienced centrefire reloaders do/think?
  18. Henry, For both sticks and bipod I tend to hold the top of the sticks/bipod and the rifle stock together, and pull into my shoulder quite firmly. I find that for me, especially when standing with sticks, I get a steadier rest when using this method.
  19. I agree with the synthetic lads.....unfortunately I have wooden stocks on both my .234 and .270. The .243 is getting a lot of work, and consequently the stock is getting marked, I wish I'd gone for a synth version now.
  20. T3 in .243 with T8 for Fox/Munty/Roe. I love this caliber! T3 in .270 with T8 for Fallow/Red. Extremely happy with the accuracy of both calibers, reloading stuff very easy to get hold of.
  21. Flytie, A pal of mine has looked into some wild boar shooting for us next year, and he's had varying responses from different agents regarding minimum calibre. Six stated .270, two stated 6.5, two stated .308. They all had estate rifles that could be borrowed, so unless you're going to do a lot of boar shooting it may be worthwhile just getting "tooled up" for the quarry that you are going to shoot regularly.
  22. Is it just me that's a lucky sod, or do others find that once you prove you can do a good job of vermin/pest control, your name gets around and new permission just comes flowing in? I've picked up three new farms this month, for fox and deer control, all gained by my original permission farmer putting my name forward when his mates tell him they're having a problem. After roaming around one farm last night, shooting 2 foxes and counting over 40 Fallow I just wonder can life get any better......... Do others find this happens to them?
  23. You start behind and the spurts of dust catch up until............... you hit it in the back end/guts etc etc. Personally I'd rather use one shot and make sure it's killed cleanly!
  24. Whilst out this evening after Munty, I came across these. Only problem is I'm not certain if they're in season or not so I didn't take them. Any ideas?
  25. Good stuff there Kip. Can you get them long enough for standing ?
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