Rob525

Good result! What cartridge was you using?

I have some long cast iron clamps forsale as a job lot collection only due to size and weight from near blackpool 1x 6ft 1x 5ft 1x 4ft 2x 3ft £65

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Gorilla-Grab-Adhesive---290ml/p/147129 Available much cheaper but it states on there mirrors. Written on the tube

Gorrilla glue the white silicone style adhesive. Super strong and mirror safe unlike most others

Its closed tomorrow till after rush hour at the earliest so expect some big delays!

Why was/is it unwelcome? Thanks

Always find them abit dear. For a slab of rc50's there 15quid more than My local and thats without the 15quid postage

Thanks guys ill take the carts out tonight and if its not worked try it wet but ill have to get some empty carts on sunday as im not rusting up some gamebores ?. Then ill try that Punch, thanks!

Thanks. How long did you leave it under strain?

Shame its so far away. How lony would you say that barrel is? It looks hellishly long!

Evening all. I wonderd if any of you could help me. I have an old leather cartridge belt that has been passed down through my family its at least 70 years old. It had been left in a poor state unattended and when it was passed to me it was really still and brittle. I have given it a few coats on neatsfoot oil and its nice and supple again but it seems to have shrunk abit. Cartridges fit but are just too tight for it to be used in the field. I have wrapped some paper arround some carts and squeezed them in, not too much as i dont want it to be too loose! Question is will this work and how long will the leather take to strech if it will?! Thanks

Googles nest. Great bit of kit Or if your not after a smart stat look at deltadore kit ??

I always use gamebore black gold 35g 5's throughout the season. I may look a reducing that for the start of this season after reading through this.

Personally i would put a damp course in the block and use pressure treated tile batton to make a square/rectangle on the wall (going no lower than the dampcourse) then fix your horizontal or vertical batton in the middle of the square to essentialy make a kind of ladder. When you clad it, it will be sealed all the way arround to stop birds nesting and because its above the dpc the batton can go straight to the brickwork Just what i would do but there are other ways and probably better!

Ill take your advice and do that now! Thanks

I havent yet i thought i would throw a post up first and see what comes in. I really think this 'bosher' man needs a list of current guns up somewhere as his name gets thrown into every wanted post!

Saw that. Bargain! Shame its in essex tho!

Hello! Never had one, Quite fancy one! Im after a cheap section 2 pump. Nothing fancy. Something that cycles and fires, cheap being the word! If i get on with it then ill look at an upgrade! Sorry forgot to mention im in the north west i do get out abit tho

The pic with the bars under is the same as the one above the opening was taken out an extra brick lentgh past the original opening ither side so that was to support the already solid internal featherings of the stack. Never give anything the oportunity to fall. It will never fall as bad as you think it might though as it will only drop from the widest point to a triangle above

These are different jobs just some recent ones to give you an idea. you will have to go up another meter or so removing the clay lined pots as you go (i think you said it was clay lined!) Then when you drop the liner down you can bend it to the center or if its a bad angle still bend it over and stick a vitrous 45 on top of the straight lentgh above the lintle/ register plate so you cant see it. Make sure the flue never goes past the 45 degree though ??

If some of your bricks arent key'd in above you can do something simular to this drilling some 1/2 inch bar into the back and supporting the front onto the lintel

Would really recomend putting a stainless liner down your flue for performance and safty. Open fires throw loads of heat up the chimey pushing alot of soot out to top where stoves are alot more efficient and the flue will be alot cooler so the soot will be deposited in the morter lines and increase the risk of a chimney fire.

You need to see if the bricks are key'd in to the walls further up if they are you can go up as high as you like providing you lintel the face bricks. Always need to lintel even if its just a steel plate. The last thing you want is your newly plasterd wall cracking when a brick drops from the heat of your burner

Some good feed back on the knives and sharpening. Thanks guys ??

Its raining! ??