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choke


Tomm
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hello i have been after a gun for a long time now having been granted my sert just over 6 months ago. tosay i went to the gunshop to get a new coat for beeting this year as my old one is a bit tatty. while i was there she told me there was a gun she thaught i would like. it it a ou ejector 12g but it has a full and 3/4 choke and these are fixed. i like the gun and it is well within my price range but i am worried about the choked being to tight for what i want. i will be using th gun for mainley pigeon and rough walked up shooting but would like to be able to do the odd bit of foxing if asked to. will this be ok> i will be moast likley using gamebour 32g no6 shot as she has given me a good price at the shop.

 

many thanks

TOm

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oor just put your decoys a little further out and let flushed birds get abit further away before you shoot

 

dont get in your mind chokes are a huge deal, or you will end up blaming chokes alot of the time and not concentrate on what is actually going wrong!

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i shoot 20bore 1/4 and 1/4 for pigeon shooting and walked up game shooting. i have had 3/4 and full 12bore before and you smash everything to pieces(not good for the pot). you dont evan need full choke on high birds, but you will need full choke if you plan on shooting foxes with it. if you plan to shoot foxes with the 12bore use large shot like bb or No.2's, not 5,6 or 7's.

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With chokes as tight as that just check before you buy it that it's not a trap gun cause they're designed to shoot high you really need a sporter or game gun :good:

Hi, OK, you've done the above and all is well (hopefully).

You've got several choices. If you're really flush you could speak to Nigel Teague about installing multi chokes subject to there being sufficient barrel wall thickness. You haven't mentioned prices so this could well prove to be uneconomic.

Or, you could have both chokes opened to your requirements. This could well be the best option as it is relatively inexpensive.

On the other hand, if you have a SST, you could just bore out the full choke to your requirement. This is the cheapest option and would only really work if you intended to keep the gun for a while as this would adversely affect resale value and also make life difficult if you bought another traditionally choked gun.

With regard to the actual degree of choke, one thing to bear in mind is that in reality it's the number of pellets that matters, not percentages. Using the cartridges that you specified against pigeon (and with the exception of TC to Imp) it can be shown that in the central effective killing area, going up one level of choke will produce an extra half pellet (ish) per pigeon sized target that fits in that area. If you accept this then a two degree increase is far more beneficial. This leaves you with TC by 1/4, Imp By Half or 1/4 by 3/4. As you've just read on the other posts, anything more is unnecessary. Personally, I prefer the final choice for pigeon as by changing the cartridge it's easier to open the spread when required than it is to tighten it up.

Cheers

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thanks alot for evryones help on this i havegot a quote from a gun smith for rechoking at a cost of £40 per barrel but she is not willing to drop one bit on the price so i have told her unfortunatleyits not for me whitch is a shame as i liked the feel of the gun.i have been to look at a rizzini E multi chokewith a full set of 4 chokes for 350. is this a good gun and a good price im new to thisso all help is greatley appreciated.

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were not saying choke makes you hit more birds, it just gives you a better chance of hitting birds at different distances. you dont want to shoot a woody at 25 yards with full choke because if your on target you will smash it to bits. where as you dont want to be shooting high pigeons/pheasants with skeet choke, :no:

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My view on chokes is that for pigeon and game shooting, etc it doesn't matter what choke you have unless you plan on shooting steel at any point where you would need a fairly open pattern.

 

With decoyed pigeons you can stand a good chance of planning your first shot to suit whatever choke you have dependent on wind, distance of deeks, flightlines, but your second shot can be anywhere from fifty yards to the end of your barrel. When driven game shooting or duck flighting you can't always plan your first shot never mind your second, and rarely do you get two shots the same.

 

I've just got a multichoke O/U for a mate of mine who is taking up shooting for the first time. He'll be shooting clays not game. I've made him promise that he won't change the chokes (skeet & 1/4) for at least a year. I did consider keeping the tighter pair back and giving him them when he's had a bit of experience. I used to get hung up about chokes like others until I sat back and thought about it.

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