Just don't seem to have any consistancy

[TaxiDriver]

I'm beginning to get a bit disheartened with this shooting lark.

 

I started off shooting latter part of last year with a sub 12ft/lbs Gamo fixed barrel 'springer' and could get a 6 pellet grouping under an inch at upto 21yrds in the back garden using a seat and shooting sticks

 

More recently I've gained some permission to shoot over and got 22lr and FAC Air to use for rabbits trouble is I just cannot seem to get any consistancy with either

I didn't start off well as the scope for the 22lr was changed by my ever helpful RFD as he thought it might have been faulty.

 

I've used the scope off the Gamo for the BSA R10 MKII as I was used to it on the Gamo SFX and have been trying to zero it at 36yrds as this is the distance that suits where I'm going to want to use it mainly and it seems like a fair distance off a rabbit.

 

With the 22lr I've been going through rounds like they're air rifle pellets being plinked away (good job they're cheapish) but I have no idea what kind of zero distance I have, or indeed if I have one, I just don't seem to be able to place shots consistantly and I don't seem to be alot better off a bipod on the floor.

 

I think a part of it is I have a shakey hand naturally but to a degree it's partly exaggerated by medication I take for trapped sciatic nerve problems.

 

Have to admit that it has occured to me that I may be being over critical and expecting too much too soon as I've only had both the BSA R10 and the 22lr CZ since getting my FAC on May 5th ?

 

What to do ?

Edited June 12, 2011 by TaxiDriver

[ste12b]

This seems a bit odd. Check that everything is tight (scope and mounts) and that your silencer is not causing problems. You should easy be able to get one inch groupings at 35yds with the air rifle (cant comment on 22 lr). I have a 11.5 ft/lb aas400 and can get 1" groupings or better up to 55 yrds (with no wind on bipod) with enough energy to kill rabbits.

 

If everything is tight then try changing the way you shoot, nothing to loose. Good luck.

[Bleeh]

If the gun is not at fault, then I think you've rushed the process, and you need to spend a little more time learning the 'art' of marksmanship.

 

First off, how hard are you pulling the trigger? squeeze it softly till it shoots, rather than tugging at it, it's a far more common problem than most will admit too.

[Billy.]

Strip the gun and start again. Take the scope out of the mounts and carefully and slowly screw it all back together.

 

As above, you may be snatching the trigger. You should gently gently squeeze and actually get a bit of a shock when it fires.

 

Always try to zero at a short distance to begin with and then move the target back. Literally 10-15 yards should be what you're shooting first. Get the bullet centered and then work on the elevation once the target gets moved backwards.

 

You should go for a 65 yard zero. Don't zero it to anything stupid like 100 yards, or you'll be adding too many variables to the equation.

 

Not that it'll have a huge effect, but is the barrel floated and do you hold your rifle with a finger or thumb touching the barrel?

 

Finally - Some ammo just doesn't mix well with some guns. I'm learning that my 22-250 doesn't like Winchester ammo. I found out the hard way at 75p a shot.

Edited June 12, 2011 by Billy.

[apache]

You need to be very steady when zeroing a .22RF. It's the only shooting I do prone with a bipod. That or use a bench and sandbags. IIRC I have my .22 zero'd at 65 yards. I started at about half that and if I do my thing can get inch groups which is good enough to kill bunnies. The .17HMR I can cloverleaf at 100 yards on a good day.

 

I find I do some of my best shooting very reactionary off the wing mirror of the car - you see bunny, stop car, aim and shoot. No setting up or messing. The shots with a lot of time to get spot on are the ones I cock up!

 

Your fieldcraft must be exemplary if you are getting to 35 yards of bunnies. I'm not laying down in wet grass and cow pats to shoot bunnies, all my shooting is done either standing or from a vehicle. I would say I shoot most 60-100 yards. You can get close under the cover of darkness so I tend to use the .22 at night and the .17 in daylight.

[TaxiDriver]

My prefered method is to lay up and snipe from a fixed position (I've got a cheap waterproof picknic blanket) as the bunnies are so skittish that they're off when I'm no closer than 150-200yrds, very rare to see them out in daytime until the little ones start coming out in the evening.

 

The trigger on the R10 is so so light (bit lighter than I might prefer) the CZ is heavier but no more so than my Gamo SFX.

I don't really know much about different techniques of shooting?? I think I deffo need to practice more and more but 'plinking' winchester subs at £4 per 50 is gonna make it an expensive hobby.

 

Frustrating thing is I can shoot at bunnies and miss by a hairs breadth yet I aim at a leaf/tin can/plastic bottle to 'prove' myself/aim and 9/10 hit straight off.

 

Does anyone else find that the view or perspective is different when going between using a rifle freehand and using it prone on a bipod ?

It might be just me but the eyepiece seems to be not quite right for one way or the other.

 

Thanks for the input so far chaps.

Edited June 13, 2011 by TaxiDriver

[bruno22rf]

Try using Eley subs-most cz rifles seem to love them.If there,s no difference then get someone else that is a good shot to waz off a few rounds and see what happens.Concentrate on one gun only until the problem is sorted.

[Billy.]

My prefered method is to lay up and snipe from a fixed position (I've got a cheap waterproof picknic blanket) as the bunnies are so skittish that they're off when I'm no closer than 150-200yrds, very rare to see them out in daytime until the little ones start coming out in the evening.

 

The trigger on the R10 is so so light (bit lighter than I might prefer) the CZ is heavier but no more so than my Gamo SFX.

I don't really know much about different techniques of shooting?? I think I deffo need to practice more and more but 'plinking' winchester subs at £4 per 50 is gonna make it an expensive hobby.

 

Frustrating thing is I can shoot at bunnies and miss by a hairs breadth yet I aim at a leaf/tin can/plastic bottle to 'prove' myself/aim and 9/10 hit straight off.

 

Does anyone else find that the view or perspective is different when going between using a rifle freehand and using it prone on a bipod ?

It might be just me but the eyepiece seems to be not quite right for one way or the other.

 

Thanks for the input so far chaps.

 

You need to eliminate each variable.

 

Ammo - Change it

Sound mod - See if the rifle will zero with it off

Trigger - Install a trigger kit

Your ability to rangefind should be honed. A big rabbit far away can look like a small rabbit up close. Borrow a rangefinder and start testing yourself on distances.

Edited June 13, 2011 by Billy.

[12borejimbo]

As Billy said, also try not to shoot any bunnies further than about 80 yards, I zero my .22 at about 60 yards. Breathe, squeeze the trigger, DO NOT snatch it as you will miss, get confident, take your time. Make sure your barrel is not touching anything as this will cause innacuracy because the barrel has to be "free floating".

Strip it right down, (give it a good clean) put your scope and mounts back on, take your Mod off, and shoot at a sheet of ply at 50 yards and see if you can get a good grouping with 20 or so shots, however many you may need to get what you want, I would say you could come down and I will help you, but its a good hour I would say. Then zero it.

[Ian750]

Lots of good advice here, the only thing I would add, is clean your CZ, and I don't mean a quick pull through with a bore snake, I mean like new clean. Buy a hundred rounds of as many different brands of ammo that your RFD stocks, shoot 20 at a time cleaning thoroughly between each brand, only this way will you get a consistent idea of the preferred ammo of your rifle. Give yourself time, I find if I spend too long plinking, my shots get worse instead of better, then I start to micro manage things that could be wrong and start changing things. Do as Billy says, relax, squeeze the trigger and almost be surprised when the gun fires. If you're getting frustrated at your groupings things will only get worse. Try to relax and go back to basics, or a point that you know works, if that is air rifle range then so be it, get your confidence back and extend from there.

Hope this helps fella, hang in there

ATB

[Mungler]

Give everything a clean.

 

If it's a cheap scope, bin it. Get a S&B 6x42 and some decent mounts that are super rock solid immovable.

 

Try shooting off a bag / pillow and not a bipod - bipods can be a bit of a poison challice, if you lean heavy on the rifle / bipod or stress them even a tiny amount then it stresses the stock and back into the rifle and puts everything out of whack.

 

Zero at 70 to 80 yards and just focus on getting a decent group - then shoot at 30 yards, 50 yards and 100 yards just so you have the drop / hold over in your mind.

 

If the trigger is snatchy or snappy then see if you can adjust it or get a kit.

 

If you want my view, bin the .22LR and get an HMR - flat to about 120 yards and idiot proof point and shoot.

 

It's all griefy - everyone on here has done bundles on getting their first rifle to shoot straight or changing rifles until it worked for them. I went through four .22LR rifles before I realised that .17HMR and .22Hornet was a better combo. I got lucky with a second hand HMR that was already set up (barrel shortened, mod, trigger kit etc) and I am moving onto my second hornet to get that right.

 

It's all trial and error, just don't be gay and give up, because that's erm gay.

Edited June 13, 2011 by Mungler

[Zaiyn]

b]Concentrate on one gun only until the problem is sorted[/b].

The best advice I've seen so far.

One gun at a time, get proficient with it before moving on to the next.

 

With more years rifle experience than I'd like to admit to, I find that the poi can change markedly when switching between stances; eg prone and off-hand.

If you are near to an FT or HFT club, I would recommend you take a legal limit air rifle there and get some pointers.

Most decent shooters are happy to help out.

 

Regards

Zaiyn.

[jasons gold]

You need to eliminate each variable.

 

Ammo - Change it

Sound mod - See if the rifle will zero with it off

Trigger - Install a trigger kit

Your ability to rangefind should be honed. A big rabbit far away can look like a small rabbit up close. Borrow a rangnder and start testing yourself on distances.

 

i think that maybe part of the problem

[Good shot?]

Frustrating thing is I can shoot at bunnies and miss by a hairs breadth yet I aim at a leaf/tin can/plastic bottle to 'prove' myself/aim and 9/10 hit straight off.

 

I am very far from being an expert,I will leave all the technical aspects to more experienced members.However the above quote from your post says a lot to me and may suggest you are trying too hard.

 

As one member says concentrate on one thing at a time and relax...

[the enigma]

.However the above quote from your post says a lot to me and may suggest you are trying too hard.

 

As one member says concentrate on one thing at a time and relax...

 

Good point.

 

I used to have a BSA XL Tactical.Some days I could shoot 1/2" groups @ 25yds and other days,it looked like I'd been using a 12 bore. But it always seem to be when I was trying too hard,my groups went up the left. As above, take a look at your technique,make sure your shooting from a nice stable position and don't spend too long getting shots away.