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Zeroing New Rifle


deputy dog
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Hi all

 

Been out this morning to zero my new rifle, Browning X bolt .243.

Went through the usual cleaning practice after so many shots an so on.

Started shooting from about 25yrds just to get basic shot placement moved up to

50 after a few shots to improve on what we had on the target.

But unfortunately when we got up to 100yrds i ran out of windage on the right

turning turret. The the line was perfcet on the elevation turret, but about 4 inches

out to the left to get it smack on at 100yrds. And with no right windage left on the turret

i'm left a bit stumped as what to do

 

I'm a bit frustrated by this as their brand new sights, Redfield Accu scope

3x9-40 whcih came with the set up.

 

Any advice on what i can do to rectify this situation, or is it a simple

case of taking them back and hopefully have them changed. As i said their

brand new scope never used before an yet will not zero.

 

 

 

DD

Edited by deputy dog
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Not sure to be honest Red mate, the fella from Sportsman set the rings up on the

rifle for me, not sure if their Leupold or not.

Their spot on with elevation, but 4 inches short of windage to the right.

I was using 100gr prvi partizen.

Though i'm opting to drop down to a good 75gr bullet when i get my next pay.

Hopefully it can be rectified or i'l have to take them back.

 

 

 

DD

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Before any scope is zeroed, the reticule must sit dead centre in the scope. To do this, I always wind down the reticule as far as it goes, wind it back up all the way, and count the 'clicks' between bottom and top, I then turn it back down half way. I do this on the windage turret too. Not sure if this is causing the problem.

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If all else fails Steve i'll do that tomorrow when i go back up with Paul.

No one has ever told me to do that though with any scope. Even Paul was baffled

why it ran out of windage. The fella from Sportmans set my rings an scope up,

i just set them straight reticle wise.

I just hope i don't have to take them back an have them try and fob me off why they cant

replace them with a new scope.

Gun a cracker though fair play, will be a accurate rifle when i get the scope fixed

an zeroed tidy.

 

 

DD

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Have I read this right?

 

If you are 4" wrong with no more adjustment on the scope, and it is still conditions, then something is very wrong.

 

It could be the rail, or the mounts, or the scope!

 

There are other possibilities but start there, if you use a moderator, take it off and try!

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Thats about the jest of it Dekers mate, i'm about 4 inches left of the bull though

with no right windage adjustment left on the turret, baffling me really.

Elevation is pretty much spot on, and the grouping is consistant just not in gthe area

it supposed to be, in or around the bull. Just ran out of windage on the turret.

Checked the mod just incase the head was scuffing the side slightly but nothing showing.

Going back up tomorrow for another try, taking every thing off an remounting an starting

fresh, if that doesn't do it, then its back to Sportsman for a replacement scope as i

would say there is defo something wrong with them.

 

 

 

DD

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centralizing should be done with a new scope agreed but it won't help you here, if its as far as it goes its as far as it goes. Leupolds have windage screws on the rear bases,if no screws then take it back to the shop and get them to bore sight it as it will either be the guns mounting rail/screws,mounts or scope. Good luck and you will sort it just don't waste a bucket load of ammo until you have had it checked out, its expensive stuff,even the cheap stuff. Not liking 100gr ppu wont make it shoot that far to one side, you will just get big groups and through trianglation should still be able to zero.

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It's generally the scope mounts - don't assume they are set, or seat, correctly. If you look at the little space under the mounts (to the rail) you may see that one is cocked.

 

I know some folks don't like this but I think it's best to have the gun in a gun rest or some form of clamp (the Workmate works for me with some cloth or towel to protect the stock). It's only to take away the lateral movement as you won't hold it tight enough to take out all of the vertical recoil. Also, you'll still be holding the gun at the shoulder. If you've got a gun rest, even better. If you are centreing without damping as much of the lateral movement as possible then the result is a combination of the gun, the ammo and your shooting with that gun. The latter is probably the biggest variable.

As suggested, centre the scope (equal clicks each way) and bore sight the gun. If the two are miles apart on the target then no amount of clicks will get you there and you need to look at the mounting of the scope. I'm sure you know but then, when the two are in the same general place, aim at the bull and fire a shot. Reposition the gun on the bull and, without moving the gun, adjust the scope so that it aims at the previous impact point. Then reposition the gun on the bull and you should be almost there. Then you can make the little adjustments.

 

I've had .22LR's, 17HMR's and various air rifles all show scope mounting problems but I've yet to have a good scope or gun that's the problem.

 

Good luck.

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Take the bolt out - take the scope out of the mounts, take the mounts off the rifle.

 

Brace the rifle in a rifle rest - (or work bench or even propped on sand bags etc)

 

Look through the bore (Down the barrel) look at a point ideally between 50-100 yrds away (Depends where you are!)

 

Keeping the rifle still (hence propped) put the mounts back on - I have a spirit guide to ensure the rifle is level when doing this - leave the top off the mounts and just place the scope in the mounts (no tops) - adjust the scope for eye relief first - making sure it is perfectly upright.

 

Now drop the tops on the scope mounts and finger tighten (you can still move the scope with a bit of pressure)

 

Ensure the scope is at the correct eye relief and upright.

 

Look through the barrel again and confirm point of aim through it - Now look through scope and adjust the cross hairs to match what you see through the barrel - (Should have said as above I would reset your scope before doing this - simply wind it all the way to one side (It is already to the right - now wind it all the way to the left counting the clicks as you go - once there - come back to the middle but counting back half the number of clicks!! do the same for elevation)

 

Your rifle is now "bore sighted" - hopefully you will have had enough clicks - I suspect, either a mount or the scope was twisted/not sat right.

 

Take the rifle out and check and adjust zero accordingly.

 

Good luck

 

Mike

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as many have said could be the machining on the rifle, mounts or the scope. I'd try taking the mounts off, double check that both the mounts and dovetails are clean and free from burrs and remount, if that does not work then try swapping them from front to back or turn them around, if the problem changes after doing this then you have a mounting problem, do you have another scope to try, even a cheap one could rule the scope out.

I once seen an air rifle with the dovetails machined so badly that it was very noticeable just looking from above :lol:

And my old midland in .308 would run at full low elevation, the machine work was that far out :yes:

Edited by Paul223
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As you've bought the scope from SGC, have they used Millet rings? They sell a lot of those. They are both windage adjustable with moving jaws on both sides.

Centralise the reticle in the scope as described by Steve-b-wales and set the ring clamp screws using a collimator. Then zero as normal. They should have done that for you in the shop.

Edited by Gimlet
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Had a look at the mounts and their not adjustable.

A friend of mine who helping me with the situation

has borrowed a collimeter. So its all being disasembled

remounted and then hopefully with the help of the collimeter, sorted out once an for all.

The fella from sportsman set the rings an scope up on my rifle, with a proper rifle bench, so i automatically thought he knew what he was doing and experienced enough to get it right.

Nothing wrong with the rifling as the groups were consistant where the bullets were hitting, and the elevation was spot on, just about 4 inches off zero with the windage.

 

Let you know how we get on

 

 

DD

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Had a look at the mounts and their not adjustable.

A friend of mine who helping me with the situation

has borrowed a collimeter. So its all being disasembled

remounted and then hopefully with the help of the collimeter, sorted out once an for all.

The fella from sportsman set the rings an scope up on my rifle, with a proper rifle bench, so i automatically thought he knew what he was doing and experienced enough to get it right.

Nothing wrong with the rifling as the groups were consistant where the bullets were hitting, and the elevation was spot on, just about 4 inches off zero with the windage.

 

Let you know how we get on

 

 

DD

 

Try turning the mounts (both) 180 degrees, I set up again.

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I have had similar problems with both my rifles when changing scopes.

Because they had been fine on other guns I figured it had to be the mounts

and/or the nut on the end of the stock :rolleyes: so I re-set the scopes with the mounts screws on the other side and/or changed the front one to the rear.

It worked out fine with no more problems.

As you have probably re-mounted the scope now I'd be surprised if its not cured it.

 

GH

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Heres what you do;

Remove the scope from the mounts, leaving the lower sections of the mounts attached, now put a 1" or 30mm straight bar in place thats got a bit of length to it now re- tighten it into the mounts and look carefully with the mk1 eyeball measuring device. Run out can be to one side or tilting up and down in relation to the barrel- they can both effect your issue. Fix any apparent error in the mounts. If no apparent error in the mounts then check the following 1. stock screws are tentioned 2. recoil lug has cantact 3. barrel is not under presure from the stock, free float is clear if intended on the particular rifle.

If you still havent found the issue. 1. remove and re-try without the moderator fitted if you have one 2. check the scope is adjusting through its suggested range by shooting a series of groups ignooring were they land - you just want to know the range of adjustment is available. start with an optically centred scope. To optically centre a scope cut two "v" shapes in the top of a cardboard box and revolve the scope looking through it at a fixed point, the point were the cross hair does not wander when revolved is the point your looking for.

Now if you still havent found the fault i suggest it is in a bent scope tube OR a very badly fitted barrel. If its a bent scope tube you will need to confirm this by running it round in v blocks with a DTI if not apparent if its the barrel alignment similarly it needs a clock running on it but i think that is beyong the keen amature.

 

Don't fret i doubt you will get to the bottom of this list- most likely is some clown in the shop has mounted the scope wrong. There is only one member of staff at but one shop that i would trust to mount a scope for me and i would still check it :good: Oh that certainly aint one of those mail order firms!

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Have they used the weaver bases that come with the rifle, horrible alloy things, mine were out of true.

I used Leupold bases, the double dovetail ones, which a year ago was all Leupold made for the X-Bolt.

They cost me a few bob (about £70), but are 100% secure and were easy to set up.

I still have the bases and low rings here, the rifle has gone, rings and bases are mint and complete in their boxes, will fit up to a 40 mmm scope.

If they will help PM me.

 

Neil. :)

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Well, did you get the zeroing sorted out to your satisfaction?

 

 

Off back up the farm Thursday Steve with PaulT and hopefully should get it sorted once an for all.

Just hopeing its something simple with the scope an nothing to do with the actual rifle itself.

Though i don't think its the rifle to be honest. See whats what Thursday and let you know the result.

 

 

 

DD

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