Modified LED lamping torches.

[kiffy]

after seeings evos reccomendation i had to contact dave about his dropin... then i found this thread and spent ages reading it... guys youve done some fantastic work on modding these brilliant little torches. i already had a green one with the dx lens but have just bought another one to turn into an ir torch and another red one with a dx lens not just for my gun but also double duty with my telescope

[evo]

dave G ,s copper IR droppins are fantastic quality mate and certainly well worth the money,

[kiffy]

mines already ordered and paid for

[Dave-G]

mines already ordered and paid for

 

Cheers chaps - I should have more ready on the weekend.

 

Welsh warrior - I think your torch might be a 3xcr123 9V one - but the Ultrafire Wf-501b that I make these for are made to use a single 18650 battery: 9V would blow the module mate, sorry.

[kiffy]

dont rush on mine, i have only just ordered the bits to build my nv so no rush at all

[Dave-G]

Cheers Kiff,

 

The days of these copper modules look numbered I'm afraid - unless I can find a decent parting off holder block and blade at the correct cutting height for my lathe (14mm). Seems the tooling companys are making it ferhin impossible to find matching part off components that state the cutting height - and if I can get a straight answer about them, those look like a lorra lorra money. I've used up four part off blades now, getting an average of three breaks per blade, and its getting tedious hacksawing the job off the bar in the lathe.

 

I'll try to find another to get by with until the copper rod is used up then that will likely be an end to them. Little wonder they are unavailable elsewhere.

 

Yours came off OK with the hacksaw for the last bit Kiff so I can get the other end done OK - but it's best if nobody else pays for a copper module until I say I am back up and running with them.

[welshwarrior]

Yes mines a 3 cell 9v model is it just your kit doesn't work or it can't be done??

[Dave-G]

Yes mines a 3 cell 9v model is it just your kit doesn't work or it can't be done??

I dunno how I missed that bit about high pressure 9V TBH, sorry mate.

 

It can be done - but with a specific driver board that supports up to 18 volts. I could source one especially for you but I don't keep such a driver on hand given the 501B has a single 3.7V battery. Let me know if you want me to get one for you, but it'll have to wait till i find a heavy duty part off tool that fits my lathe first. The ones I have are great with ally - but they no likes copper.

[Dave-G]

Hey, sorry to hijack the thread guys looking at a 501b myself but finding the mods a bit mind boggling frankly.

 

Karpman

 

I'm ever so sorry but I have mild dyslexia, it's embarrassing having to explain that but probably best if I do. I sometimes regret starting this thread because I can't seem to get the relevant bits that matter into peoples heads. In fact I'm thinking of abandoning it because of how many people just can't understand me. Please therefore excuse me if I get a bit short sometimes. I'll probably be wiping tears of frustration away by the end of it - again.

 

The only thing that is mind boggling is trying to repeatedly explain the reasons why the incredibly easy to fit upgrade components work - and how often things are having to be repeated because people won't go back to read it themselves but need it going over again nice and fresh like.

 

 

 

While most people want a torch that has a far reaching bit in the middle of the beam AND a dimmer area to see the puddles, dog poo etc they might step in - us nocturnal quarry hunters don't need the spill around the outside of the main beam which makes our night adjusted eyes sub-conciously squint every time we turn the torch on.

 

Night shooters need zero close proximity light, which then allows our eye pupils to develop their 'nite-site'. We therefore gain a lot by converting the torch to not reflect any spill which allows our pupils to open further and see what a concentrated beam reveals for us in the ranges we are shooting at. The mind boggling bit might be that, with the evolvement of superbly bright LED's - which emit most of their light forwards rather than sideways, we therefore don't need a reflector in our torch, and how we can avoid it.

 

 

The component swap itself is incredibly simple if you just follow the instructions instead of trying to learn the science or how they are made. The 501B is the easiest torch by far to drop a new better lens or better module into, which is why there are millions out there including millions of Chinese near copies.

 

 

Each time I have to spell it out again stretches the thread out further though, making it seem even more mind boggling.

I'll try it again with shorter, more detailed, possibly childish stages, and more of them for anyone who has had difficulty with my other slightly dyslexic attempts to advise

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Here is a quick walk through, assuming you bought one like this with a red LED in it for lamping. In it's standard form the reflector/flat glass lens will suffice for 12ftlb air rifle ranges, so no need to modify it at all: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251233744759 It includes a barrel mount so you don't reflect any light back off the sound moderator into your scope - or eyesight if you mount it below the barrel. every little bit helps and it's so small and light I keep mine fitted to all of my rifles, but most of my shooting is during the night anyway.

 

 

 

To modify it for moderate rimfire ranges you can do the following seriously cheap upgrade:

 

 

(1) Remove the head - it unscrews from the body, hold the body in one hand and the torch in the other - look inside the torch head and see that it contains a non focussing plain glass flat lens that is held in with a thin alloy ring. Put the torch body to one side.

 

(2) Remove the flat glass lens in the torch head by undoing the thin little shiny lens retainer, it has slots in it that you can slip a screwdriver into to help rotate it.

 

(3) Buy a 28mm aspheric lens from a company called Deal Extreme:

http://dx.com/p/glass-optics-for-flashlights-28mm-5297 - it's a very tight fit so will need the edge skimming down with a sharpening stone, wet/dry etc. and will take a few weeks to arrive.

 

(4) Place the now 27.5mm ish aspheric lens into the torch head in the same place you got the flat glass one from.

 

(4) Put the little thin shiny lens retainer back in the torch head to hold in the new tight focusing lens.

 

Would the next bit be the mind boggling bit? B)

 

(5) Scuff up the reflector so it no longer reflects light, get a black paint pen, spray can, whatever, and paint it black. The reflector has now become an aspheric lens focal spacer instead of a reflector.

 

(6) Screw the the now black reflector which is now a focal spacer instead back onto the brass pill that contains the LED and it's electrics/spring contacts. The standard reflector spacer is a very close focal length match to the cheap DX lens you fitted.

 

(7) Put the torch head back on the torch.

 

(8) Wait till dark and go shooting with a red lamping thrower torch for mid rimfire ranges that cost you about £2.50 to upgrade.

 

 

If you didn't buy a torch with the colour of LED you need - you swap the threaded brass part for white, red, green, Infra red etc.

 

 

 

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There are better 27.3mm lenses immediately available which don't need the edges taking down that will allow you to reach outer HMR ranges. If you need that longer range then much thicker and better, more expensive lenses are made for a chap in Australia called Ash Horton. Those lenses focus at a closer distance from the LED than the Dealextreme lens and grab more light output, but you will need a shorter focal length spacer between the LED and the lens to use it - IT WILL NOT WORK WITH THE STANDARD BLACK REFLECTOR YOU PAINTED BLACK.

 

I have started supplying those lenses, and now make the shorter threaded focal spacers, and complete all in one modules, all to suit the focal distance of the Ahorton lens.

 

I'm now going off to a quiet corner to dry my eyes - again.

Edited July 26, 2013 by Dave-G

[karpman]

Cheers Dave, sorry for your frustration.

 

I need everything explaining like I'm a 7 year in print otherwise I'm easily confused lol.

 

Will pm you a little later about a ahorton lens and spacer.

 

Thanks

Karpman

[Dave-G]

Cheers Dave, sorry for your frustration.

 

I need everything explaining like I'm a 7 year in print otherwise I'm easily confused lol.

 

Will pm you a little later about a ahorton lens and spacer.

 

Thanks

Karpman

Haha, ner mind mate, I'll get over it lol.

 

I have everything you need here, we can meet up one Sunday or Monday night - my nights off work.

[Dave-G]

I'm back up and running again with a decent parting off tool now - for anyone waiting to order a copper IR or visible red module.

[whitehackle]

X

Edited July 28, 2013 by jclowes

[Dave-G]

Edited July 28, 2013 by Dave-G

[whitehackle]

X

Edited July 28, 2013 by jclowes

[Dave-G]

Your one piece copper heatsink IR module is being posted in the morning Kiffy via RM small parcel, someone will need to be able to sign for it on Tuesday.

 

Three others here with no name on at the moment.

Edited July 28, 2013 by Dave-G

[Dave-G]

A few people have commented about how the upgrades seem confusing - or the thread is confusing, This pic might possibly help.

 

The Ahorton lens is needed if you wish to use the 501B to shoot to outer rimfire ranges with a visible red LED for lamping - or with an Infra Red LED when using a spotter or dedicated digital night vision device such as an N550 or the new Photon just reaching the market.

 

The current 501B IR illuminator ability when used with a rear add-on is circa 100 yards with a decent camera - but likely to improve substantially very soon, watch this space.

 

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The Ahorton lens must be used with a shorter than standard focal spacer, as seen here, the lens's are leaning against the two options I have made for the shooting community.

 

On the left side of the torch head is the lens and a copper all-in-one heatsink module - made to ONLY suit the Ahorton lens,

available with an over-driven visible red LED installed on a copper star,

or a slightly defocused Oslon Black 850nm Infra Red LED.

 

On the right side of the torch head are the correct length focal spacers you would replace your standard reflector with - made to ONLY suit the Ahorton lens.

If you wish to make your own focal length spacer, the lens needs to be about 11mm from the LED emitter die and be almost as wide as the outside of the lens at the front end. Chopping a few mm off the front of a standard reflector will not achieve optimum results.

 

 

 

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Still confused, unconvinced or reluctant to try a seriously improved 501b shooters torch? I'll help you make up your mind.

 

OK, I've decided I can loan out a couple of used ones - all it will eventually cost you is the insured and signed for postage both ways if you no-likey. B)

 

Here's how it works:

 

You reimburse me for a used one of what you would like to try - at the cost shown for an unused one. That helps to fund the tied up parts and tooling.

I post it to you, You try it and then make a decision regarding what you would like to occur next:

 

 

A, You return it to me within 1 week according to your return postal date on the package, at your expense - and get a refund less the £4.10 it cost me to send it to you. OR:

B, You just keep the used but fully working item(s) and I keep the funds,

C, On receipt of the returned used item(s) I send you an unused one and I keep the funds.

Edited July 29, 2013 by Dave-G

[kiffy]

got my bits today dave, thanks so much... looks lovely quality

[telf]

improve very soon ? what you got up your sleeve now dave

[Dave-G]

Kiffy, cheers mate, come back and let us know how you get on with it please.

 

Telf, I'm waiting for the arrival of LED's that are closer to the spectrum of human visibility - but still within the recognised boundary of Infra Red and would be much too dim for lamping purposes.

[Colc08]

WOW !! Mind blown!!! I have spent the last couple of hours reading through this and a massive Hats Off to Dave-G for his dedication enthusiasm to bring all this to light (pardon the pun Lol)

 

A very interesting read and i now definately want one

[Dave-G]

got my bits today dave, thanks so much... looks lovely quality

How you getting on with it mate?

[kiffy]

not got my nv made up yet so had to do a bodge test... i have cctv cameras around my house as i have dodgy neighbours so put the dropin in my new ebay sourced 501 shone it out the window and looked at the cctv on my tv.. very strange... as i obviously couldnt see anything out the window but turn to the side and look at the tv and it was like shining a normal torch.. glad i gave up the demon drink or it would have screwed with my head

 

gave me a tight square on the side of the house oposite but the lamp was flashing on and off as i moved it so put it in my old deal extreme sourced 501 which is suprisingly much better quality and it worked perfect.. focus was much different from torch to torch as this one didnt have the tight square image on the house.. guess ill have a play with focus when i finally get my nv made (think all i need is a camera which i hope to have tomorrow)

 

very very happy with it dave

[Dave-G]

I was looking through my YouTube video's and remembered I hadn't posted this one up here.

 

I'd took the scope-less rig off my air rifle for the summer - so I used it with a 25mm lens to compare what you would see if you removed a rear mounted digital add-on NV rig you have - and use it as a spotter, assuming you use a 25mm lens that is.

The silent scenes are comparable light wise to what you would see using a front mounted add-on night vision rig, or a dedicated digital NV rig such as the N550 or the new Photon.

The rig was just placed on the dashboard of my 4WD so ignore the fine cross-hairs because they are not used as an aiming device in this particular clip - but check out my other videos to see it used as a scope-less rifle rig.


The scenes with audio are the same shots, but with a Watec based add-on slipped onto the rear of the rifle scope, which is a fixed 6x mag so the FOV is quite narrow and it has no focus. Notice how there is a lot less light - which is a classic issue with rear mounted add-on rigs.


The Infra Red source is a DIY modified module with an Oslon black 850nm LED, in a WF- 501B P60 drop-in torch using an Ahorton aspheric lens.



As with most of my videos, I try to only use enough IR to see what I need to see rather than make an impressively clean image for viewers to see when viewing it from YouTube. The raw image seen on my Spot-On rig monitor is far better than what is seen here. This was the first time since the start of the wet autumn that these rabbits have been shot at which is probably how I managed to get so close to them in the 4WD.

 

 

 

 

[Dave-G]

I've just had a report back from someone I sent a 1Watt ebay IR drop-in module to try with his new Yukon Photon.

 

Apparently it's brilliant at over 150 yard yards. Now I just KNOW several people found they weren't quite up to what they wanted from their rear mounted add-on rigs - but the new Photon doesn't need to drag light through an unwilling day-scope: It gets much more light in.

 

Try it if you have both - you will be very pleasantly surprised apparently.

Edited August 16, 2013 by Dave-G