Wibbsy Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Ha! It comes up second result on 'how to build a field road' on Google! and probably on the only decent source of info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 The problem with piling up the spoil either side is you are creating a channel. Water can't get out so will run down the surface. Two wheel tracks are ok if the driver doesn't wander off them, easily done especially in a tractor. Just one rear wheel off and into the soft stuff will muller it over time. Of your two preferences 1 is the best bet provided the sub base is laid correctly and the width allows for tyres up to tractor size plus 30%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wibbsy Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Of your two preferences 1 is the best bet provided the sub base is laid correctly and the width allows for tyres up to tractor size plus 30%. Which may as well be a full road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Only cost effective way. Problem with two single wheel ways is the turning of the wheels on a slight bend puts lateral pressure on the surface. I've done straight drives in very expensive victorian brick pavers with fancy aggregate between but the turning area has always been beefed up. There is a mesh you can lay on a sub Base that's either plastic or pre formed concrete. May do what your after if money is an issue. If you can operate a 360 you will save a heap of money if you do the basing out. If you can't you can now get a system that fixes to the arm that precludes over digging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Delwint Posted February 21, 2017 Report Share Posted February 21, 2017 Only use mot for the top, use 6f2 as the base layer, way cheaper and it's bigger material which will aid drainage, definitely use a geotextile which will stop the stone being pushed into the subsoil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wandringstar Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 don't buy mot, its a fortune, just use crushed concrete, keep the cost minimal, but you need to remove turf at least before whacking down the concrete, then stone it with some 20mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davewh100 Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 our fishing club as just had plans drawn up for a new Road and two car parks what (digger) says is absolutely bang on the money but our road as to have grasscreat on the top to blend in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 Sure green truck grid 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluebarrels Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 temporary road Like they use at festivals? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 For a road to carry that weight you want large stones small stones will just get pushed away, think of railway ballast. You need drainage and rocks that will bind, the forestry roads of the Lakes are made like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted February 22, 2017 Report Share Posted February 22, 2017 don't buy mot, its a fortune, just use crushed concrete, keep the cost minimal, but you need to remove turf at least before whacking down the concrete, then stone it with some 20mm. Similar to what i would do on a driveway,excavate and lay teram then crushed concrete wacked,then lay another fabric and stone on top of this,if you dont lay second fabric crushed concrete and stone end up mixing and ruts will be created. If you only lay base stone in wheelings then you will be doing it forever and wheel ruts will get deeper and a mound will develop in the middle,the farm i shoot on is like this and is a nightmare after sugerbeet harvest,the tracks that are full width never have problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andypaint Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 A lot of the farmers around here are making farm tracks out of what look to be concrete railway sleepers. I assume they are cheap at the moment as several of the farms local to me have piles of them ready to go down, and some quite impressive tracks made. Plus one, where I go (Shropshire, North Wales border) he's been very busy with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Medic1281 Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Plus one, where I go (Shropshire, North Wales border) he's been very busy with them That's where I am! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 there is an alternative .... soil stabilization remove topsoil......if the subsoil is claybound...then use/rotovate 5% hydrated lime... if the subsoil is non clay then rotovate 5% cement and compact.......... 500mm depth should be plenty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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