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Fitting a cabinet


JustJon
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So... I have got a drill type thing

 

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some nut things

 

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a wall

 

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and a cabinet

 

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So... step by step what do I do?

 

Guessing, line cabinet up, mark drilling spots, drill, put cabinet back, put bolts in ?

 

How far do I drill? Is that anywhere near right?

 

I'm a DIY-phobe but trying, appreciate your help! Thanks.

 

p.s. big pictures! can I scale them down?

Edited by JustJon
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You will need to either remove the skirting where the cabinet is going or make up some packing pieces to space the back of the cabinet away from the wall by the same amount where you put the bolts through.

 

Best to cut the skirting if possible as t'other way leaves a gap that a crow bar can easily be put into.

 

Those expanding bolts are fine if you have solid walls, as you do them up they will wedge into the holes you have drilled.

 

Check that you ain't got heating pipes or cables running where you plan to drill the holes!!

 

You need to drill in far enough for the sleeves to go flush or slightly below surface.

 

Mine is done with 12mm bolts rather than 10's

Edited by old rooster
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Had someone else do it for me before - had a cupboard it sat inside and then went into the wall - might use the cupboard again then so it's resting on "floor" of cupboard and then into wall (cupboard is one of those IKEA ones which sits around the skirting board)

 

Guess it puts another level of "hidden" in place as well.



Fair bit of weight hanging on the wall that way, wouldn't advise it mate.

I guess you could rest it on the skirting but better if it is on the floor.

Thanks Rooster - appreciate the help :yes:

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i tried rawlbolts and they were a faff!! so went to screw fix and got a chemical stud kit and fitted it to were it was gonna live drilled 6 holes hoovered and brushed out holes with brush in the kit and squirted the gunk in there and then banged the studs in left it over night and then fitted the nuts to the studs and i bet you would remove the bricks from the wall before the cabinet comes out!! dead easy was a total doddle!!!

Edited by beeredup
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My cabinet is a 10 gun one so quite heavy,

 

It rests above the skirting board on 2 housebricks (which you cant see) which were the right height

 

Explained this upon visit by FEO and they tugged a bit to see if it moved, it didnt, and has been ok ever since, after 4 visits on renewal (2 shotgun, 2 firearms)

 

bigger problem was with it being an old house (circa 1915) the walls are not flat,

 

This left me with a gap at the top of about 20mm, FEO said provided I disguise it either by building a frame around it which covers the gap. or fill it.

 

I eventually found a rubber seal that goes all the way round the cabinet and looks like its always been there with no gaps

 

has passed 2 inspections with no problems

 

:shaun:

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Try thunderbolts mate they are easy just drill the hole then screw the the thunderbolts in

You can't beat these bad boys! Great for using on softer brick too.

And there is no expansion, so no damage to the brickwork.

 

I have used these on mine and mounted it 4ft off the floor above a shoe rack in the cupboard.

Feo didn't bat and eyelid!

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I used 4x10mm Rawlbolts fixed to the wall. It's a brick wall and as you say the FEO tried to pull it off the wall. No joy so happy. It's a 3 gun cabinet and fixed above the skirting. The only problem is it's full now and I need to get a larger one as I want to get a .223 when I find a friendly farmer who will let me shoot foxes on his/her land.

 

Lay the cabinet against the wall, mark the holes and drill them. Try putting some insulating tape around the drill bit to get the right depth. Clean the holes out and put the bolts in minus the nuts. Put the cabinet in place and put the washers and nuts on the bolts. Do them up tight. You might want to get hold of some large washers to go on the bolts which will distribute the weight. Job done.

 

Can't see if it is a three or five gun cabinet. If a three, it should be OK to sit it on the skirting. I wouldn't go the route of packing the back out as opposed to cutting the skirting. Some little scrote will probably have a crowbar with them if they break in so will get it off easily.

Edited by Uncle Albert
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Dont go straight in with a 10mm drill-use a 7 or 8 mm first-even smaller if you are not good at holding the drill steady.Piloting the hole will give you the best chance of getting a good 10mm dia hole-this means that you wont need to do the nut up so tight inside the cabinet to get a good fix.Do not over tighten the nuts because you can crack the bricks,just do them up enough to hold the cabinet and then maybe one turn more.Best to put it against the wall as already advised--its easier to get a fixing and it helps prevent the use of a wrecking bar to remove the cabinet.

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So, wickes don't sell chemical anchor bolts. Somewhere online I can order some from please?

 

You don't need them fella. what you have is fine providing you're going into a load bearing brick wall, just tighten them home solid, it will bite to the wall fine, pilot your holes and work up to 10ml, keep the drill dead straight. Once fitted you wont move them for love or money. seal the case edges with a little silicone or mastic when finished.

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Mine used to be mounted off the floor.

I fitted a steel plate inside it top and bottom which spans both bolts.

FEO put one foot on the lip of the cab and hoisted himself up, when nothing moved he was happy.

 

If you have any concerns about the fixings try adding some square washers inside and out.

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i tried rawlbolts and they were a faff!! so went to screw fix and got a chemical stud kit and fitted it to were it was gonna live drilled 6 holes hoovered and brushed out holes with brush in the kit and squirted the gunk in there and then banged the studs in left it over night and then fitted the nuts to the studs and i bet you would remove the bricks from the wall before the cabinet comes out!! dead easy was a total doddle!!!

I did the same in breeze block walls, the house will come down before the cabinet comes loose:-)

 

Screwfix - several varieties - and better and more room for error than any rawlbolt in anything but concrete.

Gt mine from screwfix too:-)

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