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Cabinet fixing


DirtyDeeds
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My gun cabinet has 6 10mm holes at the back and 4 on the floor. When the FEO came to visit he said that my intended place to site the cabinet was OK, but to fit flush against the wall, it needs to be raised up from the floor to miss the skirting board and a smallbore pipe.

 

It's going right in the corner of a small hobby room, about 5ft x 7 ft in which there is a 2ft x 7ft work top, so there's not much room to try and 'jimmy' the thing off.

 

I have made a wooden 'box for the cabinet to stand on. Does this need to be fixed to the floor and then the cabinet coach bolted to the wooden box, or are the 6 rawlbolts in the back enough?

 

 

Thanks in advance,

Steve

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I put extra holes in mine, because the rear wall where the cabinet sits was made of mush and the brick wall was on the right hand side where there were no holes. As long as the FAO can hang off it and give it a violent shake all will be well. Just don't leave any gaps where a jemmy could get in.

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If it was me doing it I would just fix to the wall with the six holes. That's all that I have in mine. As for the wooden box, is it possible to fill it with more bits of thick timber so it's solid, then screw it to the cabinet? Not that this will hold it down any more, but it will stop a would be thief from smashing out the wooden frame from underneath and putting a jack under it to force it off the wall. I'd do that as an extra measure for my peace of mind, I'm sure it's fine as it is for the FEO. Mine sits on top of a safe, and isn't bolted to it ;)

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mines similar, i have mine raised above the skirting and sat on a bricks. i have though about the posibility of knocking the bricks out and jacking the safe up, but i figure if we get a brake in and they can get past my 3 headcase dogs then they would get the safe off no mater what i do..

 

 

 

H

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I wouldn't worry, most cabinets wouldn't stand much of an attack anyway. The really top end ones can take a real beating, but the £100 5 gun jobs wouldn't take a lot of work to get the guns out with a couple of disks and a decent angle grinder. This isn't the point of them anyway, its to prevent casual unauthorised access to the guns.

 

A determined criminal wouldn't want registered firearms, gun crime isn't committed with registered firearms (less than 3% of recorded gun crime last time I looked).

 

If someone wanted your guns there are easier ways to get them than busting open the safe. The average house breaker doesn't want firearms charges on his rap sheet, does he?

 

If someone is determined to have your guns they would know where they were first, and lets face it given half an ounce of nouse waiting until they are locked safely away in your safe doesn't make much sense, does it? ;)

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I agree with Pin...

 

Do enough to satisfy the FEO and for your piece of mind and leave it at that...

 

My FEO just gave the cabinet a tug and made sure it wasn't going anywhere.

 

The cabinet is only designed to stop casual theifs getting their hands on your guns, if someone really wants your guns they will make YOU hand them over I'm sure.

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Yep. Having read that back though I think it would be foolish to give the impression that a half-***** job would be ok. I did what I could with mine, even replaced the bolts that came with for beefier ones.

 

I was kind of getting at, do "what is reasonable" but don't worry about trying to create fort knox, the law isn't expecting you to.

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Thanks for all your comments and help - as always, a mine of information and ideas - thanks.

 

Took on board some comments. I know a decent grinder and a bit of time can open the safe and that's down to Mr British Standard, but I've done my part to make it secure as I can. I only wanted to do the job once - my grandfather used to say "if a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing properly".

 

So I've drilled 2 extra holes between the two top and bottom bolts holes, but a bricks height higher/lower. I also secured the wood with brackets to the floor and two screws inside the safe (couldn't used the back holes), and filled in the gaps to the skirting board - looks OK.

 

My wife said "that's nice, but a smaller one would have done - I haven't got that much jewelry (yet)"! ;)

 

cab3sh1.jpg

 

Just going to paint the wooden block when the filler's dry - should be a tidy job.

 

Thanks again,

Steve

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I wouldn't worry, most cabinets wouldn't stand much of an attack anyway. The really top end ones can take a real beating, but the £100 5 gun jobs wouldn't take a lot of work to get the guns out with a couple of disks and a decent angle grinder.

 

Oh yes, this is a fair point. When I drilled the extra holes in my cabinet I thought I was in for a slog, but no. SDS drill with a new drill bit and it went through it like butter. I reckon drilling the locks off would take less than 2 minutes.

 

The tip must therefore be, put your drill, drill bits and extension leads in an even thicker stell cabinet.

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Thankfully the law only says you have to take reasonable precautions to prevent unauthorised access to your guns. I would think keeping these two items separate would be considered sufficiently reasonable.

 

Leaving the cutter with a tank of fuel, the instructions and a spare blade outside the cabinet and then leaving the door open with "guns -->" sign on the door, might not be :unsure:

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