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Gambier mammoth 3.5 inch 42gram number 3


Blakloks
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Definitely agree there I liked he 3" gambore mammoth 3 shot on a tide flight. The mate stiffed 2 Canada with eley lightnings number 1 shot

Have you patterned you gun with these carts? When I patterned mine I was very surprised how open my pattern was I brought a terror choke which really tightened this up and has made a massive difference to my shooting with steel

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In convinced this half choke story is people just covering themselves. But until proven otherwise that's what I'm sticking too. Nearly bought an aftermarket choke but I'm going to see how I get on with different shells first

Apparently, most of the after market steel full chokes are the same constriction as a modified/ half.....

 

So a standard half choke for lead is a full for steel.

 

A full choke for lead is super full ?? For steel ...... ??

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I killed a canada the other day at 40 yards with 3 inch mammoths with no 3 shot. Not a shot size in steel I would recomend for geese ( I was expecting duck ) but provided you do not push the range they will do the job. If I was you I would step up to BB or better still BBB for geese. I think the rule about stepping up 2-3 sizes from lead to steel works , no 3 for me for small \ medium size or close duck , no 2 for high flighting mallard and BB or larger for flighting geese.

 

As for choke and steel , I have been told by friends more knowlegable than me that afterchokes have a longer tapering choke which results in lower pressures , in contrast fixed chokes have short chokes and this increases the pressure. So you can get away with a full choke (.700) for steel with an afterchoke , but not with a fixed choke. My friend is a gunsmith and in the last few years he had handled a number of good guns , with full choke ( not steel proof ) that have bulged barrels as a result of shooting steel through them. Despite what was in the BASC mag a while ago I would recomend only using steel in guns less than 1\2 choke( fixed ) and if you want a tighter choke go for an after choke.

Edited by anser2
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Steel won't deform like lead (obviously), so squeezing it through a tight choke....... Something will eventually give.

I would confidently use 3 shot through a full choke. I have killed geese this week with a very tight aftermarket choke and BB shot. Fast BBs may be a bit too much for the choke i have been using (Terror .655) so i have ordered a Briley IM.

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I patterned the 3 1/2 inch gamebore 3's and 1's before last season through my SX3 with standard invector + chokes and was surprised at the result! 1/4 choke gave a good useable pattern out to 40 yards, at 50 yards it was a bit gappy but that's fine with me as about 40 yards is my limit. I then tried 1/2 and at 40 yards there was very little difference apart from a few more "flyers", but the core pattern was very similar, but it did retain its shape a bit better at 50 yards. So for me i stick with 1/4 and shoot with confidence. I may try out an aftermarket choke though after reading up on them a bit.

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I would confidently use 3 shot through a full choke. I have killed geese this week with a very tight aftermarket choke and BB shot. Fast BBs may be a bit too much for the choke i have been using (Terror .655) so i have ordered a Briley IM.(

a briley i/m choke is a brilliant all rounder ,and there safe with big steel shot (i emailed them and asked about using bbb and they said yes it was no problem), you can get briley chokes from chris potter guns so saves the hassle of getting one from another country

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I killed a canada the other day at 40 yards with 3 inch mammoths with no 3 shot. Not a shot size in steel I would recomend for geese ( I was expecting duck ) but provided you do not push the range they will do the job. If I was you I would step up to BB or better still BBB for geese. I think the rule about stepping up 2-3 sizes from lead to steel works , no 3 for me for small \ medium size or close duck , no 2 for high flighting mallard and BB or larger for flighting geese.

 

As for choke and steel , I have been told by friends more knowlegable than me that afterchokes have a longer tapering choke which results in lower pressures , in contrast fixed chokes have short chokes and this increases the pressure. So you can get away with a full choke (.700) for steel with an afterchoke , but not with a fixed choke. My friend is a gunsmith and in the last few years he had handled a number of good guns , with full choke ( not steel proof ) that have bulged barrels as a result of shooting steel through them. Despite what was in the BASC mag a while ago I would recomend only using steel in guns less than 1\2 choke( fixed ) and if you want a tighter choke go for an after choke.

Spot on I use the above but I now only load bbb for geese and 2s for all duck through after market chokes and the results are very good indeed.
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  • 1 month later...

Good advice guys. Aftermarket extended chokes are the answer with large steel. As allanm said above the Briley x2 range is excellent and is fine for steel up to and including IM (3/4). Having a far more gradual taper than a standard flush choke means large steel shot can pass through with causing damage. As it happens all IM invector plus chokes are fine with steel too. It says so in any Browning manual. Not only are Brileys available in the UK from Chris potters they are also much cheaper than Terrors, Kicks high flyers etc. Midway UK have a good stock of US chokes but they're around double the price of a Briley X2. I have a .675 terror and have found it great with 36 gram 3's but far too tight with large sizes like US BB's. It also increased the shot string considerably. Best overall pattern, performance and value goes to Briley.

 

Back to the initial question

 

Steel 3's are similar to lead 5's but perhaps with a more rapid loss of energy over 45 yards. You won't go wrong with 3" Remmie Nitro Steel in BB's as long as you can hold your pattern together.

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